1999 XJ Airbag Control Module Recall


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Old 12-30-2011, 07:44 PM   #1
Lyon
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Default 1999 XJ Airbag Control Module Recall

Due to my most recent trail ride, I took on a little more water than I wanted to. Needless to say, mud and water got in to the Airbag Control Module and now the Airbag light is staying on. I've looked around the internet doing searches and found they have a recall on the 1999's and they relocate the box from under the seat to under the center console. I was wondering if anyone has had it done and if the time to get it done has expired. The recall is over 10 years old already. Also, if anyone has had it done, do they just use self tappers or something to mount it in the new location because I could do it myself. I wasn't sure if they manufactured a bracket or something. Thanks in advance for the help.



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Old 01-05-2012, 10:27 PM   #2
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Ok, I guess no one has come across this issue yet. No worries. I had a buddy of mine who knew someone one with and had the bracket to go along with it. Thanks again to Dan for the hook up.

The original spot for these was mounted under the drivers seat. The recall shows that it is relocated to the rear of the trans tunnel under the center console. The ground wire also needs to be relocated to that area as well. The little black plastic support (the one that looks like a little table) under the back portion of the center console needs to be slightly modified to fit over the Airbag Module and be mounted in the same position. I used galvanized self tappers to install the newer holding bracket for the module. Now that the fit is so tight with the new assembly, the whole center console feels extremely secure and strong. No more play side to side anymore. Here's a few pictures I took while I relocated them while I was making some repairs and getting ready to reinstall the carpets. Oh, as far as the dealership still doing the recalls, I don't know. I never got the chance to call and make an appointment and I figured it was faster doing it myself.


WARNING: Make sure to disconnect the battery on the positive side and touch the end to the negative side for atleast 30 seconds to discharge any remaining power. I also remove the negative too just to be extra safe. It's recommended to have everything disconnected for about 15 minutes total prior to opening the system. Once you've done the swap, with the battery disconnected still, insert the key in the ignition and turn it to accessory, THEN hook up the battery cables. Just so if there was something wrong with your replacement part and the airbags did deploy for some reason you won't get injured. I hope my little bit of info helps someone out.

PERFORM AT YOUR OWN RISK. I HOLD NO RESPONSIBILITIES FOR INJURIES OCCURRED.

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Old 01-05-2012, 10:31 PM   #3
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The Module itself



Opened up and the reason why I needed to replace it.



Plug that goes to the seat I believe for the seatbelt light. This will need to be rerouted slightly as well



Here is the little "table" I like to call it where the new home will be

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Old 01-05-2012, 10:38 PM   #4
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Here is how it will sit





You'll need to remove some material from the table support in order to have it fit over the module itself





ok get ready to move the wiring





The plug on the harness and the connection on the module are molded to fit one way.







All done



Install your carpet or what other parts you may have out of the Jeep.

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Old 01-05-2012, 11:57 PM   #5
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The only air bag I have is when I put it in the back to go camping. Nice build though.
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Old 01-06-2012, 10:16 PM   #6
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well i guess its a good think i got an 01 cuz knowin my dumb *** i would jst leave it there n rip out my airbags. then again,hmmmmmm
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Like a good neighbor State Farm is there.........With Rob the lighting Guru.
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Old 10-13-2012, 08:00 AM   #7
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Agree on the OEM sensors. It will be costly though. When I shopped for mine, I was told that they are the same from 98- up with one letter being different on all years just to show which year the application was for as a reference. The other option is getting a used one in good condition. Like I said in the other thread, about 60 bucks on ebay or check the junkyards.

Part number and manufacturer are in picture #3. If you plan on going OEM, the parts counter is probably going to ask you for your Vin# anyway so you don't need the part number, they will have it in the system.

Removing the seats are a very basic task if you peek your head in and look inside. It's so easy a Caveman can do it. You can remove the drivers seat only (don't need to do both) if you want to change it in the stock location. If you want to do like I did, the center console would need to come out with just a few screws and bolts. Don't take this the wrong way, but if getting the front seat out is something that needs direction, I would be hesitant on changing the airbag module as it can be dangerous.
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Old 10-14-2012, 07:44 AM   #8
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The seat is the easiest thing to pull out ever. Four bolts.

And the airbag module is dangerous because it triggers based on movement.
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Old 10-14-2012, 08:08 PM   #9
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I think we either need to use this thread or the other thread for this issue but not both. Going back and forth in 2 threads is not working. I'm going to split up your questions and answer them individually so hopefully you get the most out of the information.




Quote:
Originally Posted by onthefence View Post
In my experience, no DIY is ever as simple as it looks. (or as quick as forum people try to brag about it being)
Some DIY's are as simple as they look, some aren't. Every one has different skill levels, some people need to improvise when something can't go exactly as a DIY mentions. I consider a DIY a "project" of some sort requiring fabrication. There are no set rules in one's type of fabrication. Again that word improvise.

I have done plenty of DIYs, but never removed seats. Are there 2 bolts? 4 bolts?

to be politically correct since the issue seems to be intense detail here, there are 3 bolts and one stud with a nut. I don't want to get reprimanded because there wasn't technically 4 total bolts and screw up the entire DIY process.

Do you need to get underneath the car?

Only if you break the bolts and require some sort of fabrication of new mounting bolt locations. Otherwise, no.

Are there many wire harnesses connected to the seat?
As mentioned in the write up (and pictured), there is a wire that I believed was for the seatbelt light. If you have power seats, you will have a harness.

Is there a hidden bolt you can't easily see?
Only when I lose one.

etc. You get what I am saying? If you've removed the seat yourself, its obvious. If not, there can be infinite gotchas. In my experience, it's worth asking up front so you don't screw something up 1/2 way. If the seat is easy, fine. I know how to turn bolts. But, nothing is always simple and obvious. It is fools who rush in.

DIY's are full of "gotcha's" Not all vehicles have the same exact scenerio when doing a project or repair. People run in to all different things. This is where being mechanically inclined and being able to improvise (dam, there's that word again) will get the job done.

Why is the airbag sensor switch dangerous? Please explain why, and maybe I'll source the Ebay part and pay the dealer to do it, if it actually takes a qualified pro to do this level of remove and replace. I don't want to electrocute myself (or whatever you're implying)

Well, someone has a complex. I wasn't implying you were an idiot. I was looking out for your safety because airbags are not something to mess with if you are not that experienced in mechanics. They are suggested to be done by highly trained personnel. It wasn't so much that you didn't know what you were doing, but it seemed that you didn't even want to bother looking to see what needed to be done and figure it out yourself a little bit. Airbags are an advanced "mechanical" procedure. Removing the seat does not require any kind of special forces training. But CT99XJ said it best.

Here's a real quick airbag story from a manager from a body shop I used to deal with. Car was in a front end collision. Airbags never went off. There was something wrong with the system where they didn't deploy during the accident. The way the car was hit, it was determined they should have. Adjuster came out to look at the car. Shop gave the guy the keys so he could turn the key to get the mileage from the digital display. Window was down or busted out (don't remember) but he couldn't open the door. So he reached in, put the key in, turned it, airbags THEN deployed and snapped his neck and killed him.
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My driver's seat's left/rear bolt is rusted down to a lump. How does one get this bolt off? It's hard to even get a socket down into that crevice, nevermind a saw. Anyone else have this issue? How the heck does moisture get so bad that the bolt rots so badly inside the car?
Many variables to why rust would form anywhere. Location of vehicle, was it offroaded or sunk in water, salt from ocean air....ect....Things get old and rust. Try a rust penetrant like PB Blaster or the most common but not as effective WD-40. Work the bolts back and forth until they get tight again, and respray the threads. Have patience if they are heavily rusted. If they don't budge when you first try to loosen them, I normally try to tighten them just a hair to break any crap free from them, then try to loosen them.

Just another thought here. The ABS module was a suggestion as this was what my problem was and is a very common issue AND there was a recall on it. This does not guarantee this is your exact issue though. With any kind of service light on the vehicle, I would take it to a trained professional that could hook it up to the proper diagnostic equipment to make sure exactly which part needs service.
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Old 10-16-2012, 09:12 AM   #10
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Quote:
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Agree on the OEM sensors. It will be costly though. When I shopped for mine, I was told that they are the same from 98- up with one letter being different on all years just to show which year the application was for as a reference. The other option is getting a used one in good condition. Like I said in the other thread, about 60 bucks on ebay or check the junkyards.

Part number and manufacturer are in picture #3. If you plan on going OEM, the parts counter is probably going to ask you for your Vin# anyway so you don't need the part number, they will have it in the system.
What you'll find is the part numbers will be the same for the Cherokee's 98 and up EXCEPT for either that last letter or last 2 letters, I don't remember. In my case the AB on the end of the part number resembled a different year. But the plug, harness and the way they mount are all the same. As far as a Grand Cherokee fitting, I don't know. If the 1st sequence of numbers and letters in the P/N are the same, then I'd say yes. I was hesitant to put one in from a 2000 since mine is a 99 and the P/N was 1 or 2 letters off on the end (again found out it's only a year reference) but it turned out fine. I even called the dealership to verify. So find one from an XJ that was not involved in an accident from 98 and up and you should be good. They only go to 2001.
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Old 10-16-2012, 12:21 PM   #11
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Ok, I'll compare the part numbers for the Sport vs. the Grand.
But within Sports, anything from 98-01 should work, it sounds like.

Again, how do I find the part number for the 1998 in the first place?
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Old 10-16-2012, 06:08 PM   #12
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Quote:
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Opened up and the reason why I needed to replace it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by onthefence View Post
Again, how do I find the part number for the 1998 in the first place?
A picture seems to be the only way I can explain it.
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Old 10-18-2012, 08:18 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onthefence View Post
Thanks again to Lyon for the extensive reply.

You're welcome. I hope any information I give can help you fix your issue.

By "doing it right the first time", I meant not installing cheap aftermarket sensors that fail (or never work in the first place)

I understand. This is why I mentioned the dealership. You're either going to get aftermarket or factory (from the dealership) parts. That's really all that is available. Junkyard parts or going to be either on of those 2 as well because they had to come from somewhere.

Ok, I guess the way to do it in the Jeep world is to call the dealer for every thing you need to know. Seems like the Jeep DIY community is highly dependent on their local dealer to get their projects done. (in terms of part research)

You don't have to go to the dealer for everything, but some parts may be only dealership available. The thing with a DIY (not sure why we keep calling it that because it's a mechanical repair) if you don't know the part number and can't access it, you pull the part in hopes of getting it. Unless the part was changed once before with the wrong part, you can't go wrong with the part number that is stamped on it. Again, suggesting a phone call to the dealership with the Vin number takes maybe a minute? Way longer than going back and forth here about why and how certain things work or don't work.

In the BMW world, we almost never deal with a dealership. Ever. We look up our own part numbers, and order them online from vendors. In an entire year of BMW DIY, I've bought a few fasteners at the local dealership, only b/c shipping would be $5 for a 20cents part if I ordered it online.
On the BMW forum, everyone knows any part number they need b/c it's all online.
Just so you know, this is where I am coming from:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/partgrp.d...3&mospid=47587

The BMW website seems like a nice set up. Again, I don't know if every car manufacturer has this set up especially a Jeep. I recommended Rockauto earlier. They don't carry every part there is made but they do carry a lot. They do have exploded views of part systems occasionally too. You would have to start a new thread on the forum about finding out about that particular system, if it exists and where to find it. Otherwise, Google is your friend there.


I have an ODB2 code reader. When the XJ gets back from the shop, I will read what it says. I was not aware that ODB2 has any airbag codes as the word "airbag" does not appear on this page. http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/ Or are you meaning the dealer's computer where they charge you $100 to read additional codes? I think my reader actually can read car specific codes as well. I will double check.

I don't know that all OBDII readers can scan ABS codes. You MAY need the upgraded version. I know my cheaper end scanner does not carry that capability.

How did you learn that the airbag sensor works for all 98-01's? I don't want to know this just b/c Lyon told me. I'd like to know how to determine this for myself? Do I ask the dealership to tell me all the years that are compatible with 1998? This seems like an inefficient way to get things done.

Not really inefficient in my opinion. How much time are you going to invest in a phone call? I learned by a parts supplier telling me, then verifying it with the dealership. At this point, I kind of feel if I said the part number was 12345ABC you'd then ask me how I know that too and how do I verify that. By now you could have it changed already. Just saying.


Why? If the part is bad it's coming out anyway. Right?

Sure, if you have hours to kill and want to double your DIY times. (Esp. if you need the car to go to work) To me this is a terribly inefficient way to get things done. I'd rather remove and replace once.

Wouldn't we all? You mean to tell me you've never done a project that required a quick run to the store even for something small? Nobody is perfect, and in the Jeep world stuff happens. If every job was that simple, everybody would be a mechanic.

You don't seem to understand what I am saying about multiple years. I can look up the airbag sensor for a 2001 BMW, for example. I get a part number. That's it. I search for the part by part number. If it happens to ALSO be in a 2003, that's fine, but I don't care, b/'c I search for part number. Here in the Jeep world, it's way less efficient, b/c people go around looking for a airbag sensor from "1998 to 2001". When you have the part number, you don't need to research that extra information. All part numbers match across years. Brilliantly simple.

There may not be a look up for it if there is no factory website like your BMW website AND if it's a dealership only option, your only option is to call the dealer. You can look at it this way. Say you already know the air bag will fit 98, 99,00, and 01. You call around and they say they only have a 01. Well, now you know you can use the 01 and don't have to wait for a 98 to be ordered and come in on shipment.

If your scanner will read ABS codes then cool. If not, get it checked by the professionals to determine the cause of the issue. As the ABS Module is common, recalls available, and was a suggestion I can only imagine what would happen after you put the part in and wasn't the problem.


Here. This took me all of about 20 seconds. Ebay auction with the part for your exact year with part number information. And for 30 bucks with free shipping is a steal. I paid nearly double that locally.

Chrysler P/N: P56007323AE

Chrysler S/N: TME1430Y582

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1998-JEEP-CH...p2047675.l2557

See my part number is the same except for the last letter.
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Old 10-23-2012, 06:00 AM   #14
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Thanks, yeah I've been on their site before. They do have factory part numbers but not all like you had with the BMW site. Quadratec also does something similar. I have yet to see a full OEM parts list website for the Cherokee. It may be out there, but I never bothered to look for it. Haven't really needed it.
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Old 10-26-2012, 04:16 PM   #15
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I just ordered a module from Ebay for $25.

It's from a 99 Grand Cherokee, but the part number matches exactly
It even ended with AE, which is what the 98 XJ module you posted ended with as well. (Chrysler P/N: P56007323AE)

1999 Grand Cherokee


Once I figure out how to remove the seat, I'll let you know if it was fixed.
Thanks for the help on this thread!


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