Fog Light Issues

[OcracokeOBX]

I can't seem to get my fog lights to work. I have the main headlights on low beams. When I push the switch for the fog lights, the little LED does not come on. I tried new bulbs just in case and still didn't work. Any ideas?

[CreepyKrawerOffroad]

Ground Problem. Run the ground wire directly to the ground on the battery and see if it works. Are you getting 12 volts to the lights on the power wire??

[OcracokeOBX]

I couldn't find the ground wire but I made better progress...I noticed that if I just push the fog light switch halfway in they work...? I don't get it at all.

[4.3L XJ]

Time for a new switch

[OcracokeOBX]

I'm game. How do I get one and how do I install it haha

[tornado_735]

Originally Posted by OcracokeOBX

I'm game. How do I get one and how do I install it haha

It's pretty straight forward. I don't have the fog lights, but I did have to replace my rear wiper switch. Just take the center trim out (it should pop right off, mine does) take the switch cluster out, pop the old switch out, pop the new one in, and put it all back together.

Oh, and you should be able to get one at any Fiat Dealer. ****, I mean any Chrysler dealer. My bad.

[jerman75]

what year is your jeep? also et a relay and wire the power to pass through the relay instead of the switch. thats why the factory switches burn out. they cannot handle the current the fog lights draw through it. bad design there. once you get the switch ($25-$45 online) ill talk you through how to wire it no prob.

[4.3L XJ]

Originally Posted by OcracokeOBX

I'm game. How do I get one and how do I install it haha

You can try to get one from a wrecking yard. but my experience with the Jeep switches in general is that they are poor quality. You can get a good Carling switch fro a decent auto parts store that will fit right in the same place. But before you do, find out how many amps your lights are pulling and add 1/3 of that amount to it and that is how much the switch should be rated for.

Volts X Amps = Watts

Watts/Volts = Amps

[tornado_735]

Originally Posted by 4.3L XJ

You can try to get one from a wrecking yard. but my experience with the Jeep switches in general is that they are poor quality. You can get a good Carling switch fro a decent auto parts store that will fit right in the same place. But before you do, find out how many amps your lights are pulling and add 1/3 of that amount to it and that is how much the switch should be rated for.

Volts X Amps = Watts

Watts/Volts = Amps

I have been hard up to find an XJ in a boneyard, except early models. And every single one of those ones had well over 200,000 miles. Kinda makes you wonder what ended them up there.

[2000XJ]

It's the switch. They all burn out at one point or another. I've changed the rear wiper (once) and fog light switch (twice). If you ever touch them after they've been on for some time you'll see how hot they get. That heat causes the parts on the inside of the switch to wear out and break.

[4.3L XJ]

That brings up something I have always advocated, wire in a relay for lights and such. Then the switches won't get hot and fail.

[2000XJ]

Chrysler must have missed the memo on that one...

[4.3L XJ]

Yes they did. Just too cheap. Especially with blower motor switches.

[5-90]

Originally Posted by 4.3L XJ

You can try to get one from a wrecking yard. but my experience with the Jeep switches in general is that they are poor quality. You can get a good Carling switch fro a decent auto parts store that will fit right in the same place. But before you do, find out how many amps your lights are pulling and add 1/3 of that amount to it and that is how much the switch should be rated for.

Volts X Amps = Watts

Watts/Volts = Amps

For electric motors, adding 1/3 of calculated current isn't a bad idea (the current spec, if given, accounts for startup surges.) For lighting, it isn't strictly necessary. Just use the nominal 12VDC when figuring current draw, and your safety margin for wiring will be inbuilt into the maths (since actual operating voltage tends to run 13.0-13.6VDC, you're running a slightly lower voltage which actually gives you a slightly higher current figure - try it a couple of times.

(Ohm's Law - Volts = Amps * Ohms - and Watt's Law - Watts = Volts * Amps - are two equations you should have burned into your brain if you're doing electrical work. Know them backwards and forwards, inside and out, and how to re-arrange and combine them properly. You'll thank me for it later.

(And then, just use the nominal 12.0VDC for automotive system voltage {actual 13.0-13.6VDC} or 24.0VDC for military vehicles and aircraft {actual ~26.0-27.2VDC,} and you're golden. System operating voltage is almost always higher than nominal voltage, which fact you can use to your advantage.)

[4.3L XJ]

I have always used the 1/3 rule for everything, something left over from wiring houses and lumber mills.