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how to tell if tierod ends are bad? and other steering components?

23K views 40 replies 10 participants last post by  4.3L XJ 
#1 ·
my jeep steers and handles bad. its always been bad but the steering seems to be getting worse. i checked the steering stabilizer shock today by removing it seemed ok but when i bolted it back on i noticed the rod it bolt into moved at the tierod end side to side i can grab either one and move them side to side. all of the steering stuff, tierod ends and whetever else. the trackbar looks fiine but it looks like it doesnt sit flat at the top. also is the long straight steering bar suposed to have a slight curve in it or is it bent from wheeling?
 
#3 ·
ok i will do that tomorrow when i check the aliagnment. is it normal for them to be able to move otherwise?
 
#4 ·
Everything is supposed to be tight. Have someone move the steering wheel back and forth while you watch the components. You will need to replace anything loose. In all likely hood you will have to adjust your steering box and replace the track bar bushing also. After you are done, and it is aligned, you will notice that the 86 pulls to the right. This is normal. The camber is 1.5 degrees different from right to left. This is the way it was set up at the factory so that if you fall asleep at the wheel you will go into the ditch instead of on coming traffic. There is a fix for it in the form of an offset top ball joint.

Also your tie rod is supposed to be straight. I have straightened mine several time before I upgraded it. If it is bent, it will flex and probably bend more when you hit something off road.
 
#5 ·
yeah i wasnt sure i saw a few at the junkyard that had the ever so slight curve in them as well. im geussing i need everthing
 
#6 ·
If you are cruising the yard, then look for the ZJ with a V8. They had a heavier duty tie rod and drag link. You can upgrade while y our at it.
 
#7 ·
what year? theres a v8 grand chereokee and some 4.0 ones can i use those?
 
#8 ·
My understanding it is the V8 grands that have the heaver tie rods.
 
#11 ·
so is the 2.5l stuff the same as the 4.0 stuff as well. dumb question but i want to make sure that its not even thinner
 
#14 ·
the v8 grand i saw had a weird shaped bar it wasnt even close to straight but i think thats how its supposed to be. i got this instead for $14

 
#16 ·
the problem is alot of times they set the car/jeep or whatever on the front stuff at the junkyard they have rims with other rims welded to hold cars up in the air so people can pull parts so one was no good right off the bat and the second one i couldnt tell if it was bent wrong or not i think it was a 94grand.
anyways everything looks crappy so this was the most soild feeling choice and its from a 90 xj i think. if this doesnt help my steering i dont know. i still need 3" lift shocks for my front and have no idea what i would ask for if ordering them new
 
#17 ·
Measure the length of your springs. Lots of 3" lifts use stock length shocks. I have a set of those sitting in front of the shop. What part of the world are you in?
 
#18 ·
I don't think that most 3" lifts use stock length shocks. They're just too short, especially when undergoing articulation. Most factory length shocks are close to their limits at 2" of lift.

You can usually order shocks from most manufacturers at almost any length that you want. You need to measure your current shocks, from eye to eye (both when compressed and when extended), and then order a set that offers 3" more travel.
 
#19 ·
I have a set of Skyjackers here that are the same length as stockers sitting next to them. Ranchos are the same length also.
 
#21 ·
It is the budget lifts that are like this. All they do is increase the spring rates with add a leaves and a stiffer front spring.
 
#22 · (Edited)
oops look at the tierod and sway bushing




the new stuff with brute steering shock


i relocated my brakelines too

 
#23 ·
ford explorer 1997 rear shocks work for 3-6" of lift. these are monroe snesa trac and almost compressed all the way with my 3" so they can flex lots awesome ride now. heres a lil pic of the mods the bar pin has to be notoched since the holes dont line up





i used dish soap to slip in the old xj rubber
 
#25 ·
I would like to reopen this thread regarding what I think is a symptom of loose front end steering.

My '93 xj seems to veer in either direction (L & R) while holding the steering wheel straight. It's like the wind can easily push the vehicle. When coming out of a turn, the driver must over-steer the opposite direction to keep the line. New tires don't help. Alignment doesn't help. Steering wheel feels tight to the gear box. Mechanics don't seem to be able to resolve. Was wondering if these were recognizable symptoms of issues already dealt with?
 
#27 ·
Thanks for the reply. I appreciate your help! My '93 xj is stock with no mods, its a daily vehicle. I am not sure about the castor angle, but I do have radial tires. Wouldn't castor angle be corrected during an alignment?

This issue has really been going on for several years and may have gradually worsened over time. It such a problem that if you look at the radio for a second to surf, you end up on the white or yellow line. Very nerve racking to say the least.
 
#28 ·
I asked these questions to narrow down the possibilities. Many times lifting a vehicle and or bias ply tires exacerbates a problem.

So where we are now is two things that need to be checked. First, look at the steering pitman arm on the bottom of the steering box from the top. Have someone wiggle the steering wheel back and forth with the engine running. If the pitman arm does not move immediately with the sector shaft rotation then the box needs to be adjusted. Second, perform the same test while looking at the track bar and drag link. The body of the vehicle should be stationary while the wheels move. If stuff is moving and the wheels are not, then look for points of attachment and replace those parts. They should all be solid.
 
#29 ·
Have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth while you watch the joints in the steering one by one. If you see any play, side by side movement, or feel any clunking then you know it's bad. Keep an eye on the trackbar bushings and tie rod as well.

 
#30 ·
Thanks Muddeprived and 4.3LXJ, These instructions could not have been any better.

Well, I was hoping my xj would be back from the paint shop yesterday so I could go through these checks and report the findings.

In the meantime, I have been doing a little reading up on the functions of the drag link, castor angle, pitman etc, as you guys point out. My gut feel is the castor angle now that I understand what that's about, but as soon as I get the jeep back from the shop, I'll get my son out there, we'll go thru the motions and post back.

Thanks again, Dave
 
#31 ·
Good luck on your inspection. Report back to us what you find or if you got any other questions. :hi:
 
#32 ·
Will do. As I have a little too much time on my hands right now, I was just thinking back to the days. The vehicle was purchased new with smaller wheels, I think 225r15. After the first set, we moved to 235r15 for a taller look. Do you think this could have affected the caster angle, i.e. larger tire diameter changes caster dimensions? This may have been about the time the wandering began.
 
#33 ·
Nah caster doesn't change with tire height. The only way to change caster is to lengthen or shorten control arms, adjust the adjustment shoes, or have bad control arm bushings.
 
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