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**jfxj67** · 12-21-2009, 09:16 AM

When i was under my Cherokee replacing my Track Bar, i noticed just how bad the oil leak is!

As i studied... i got to thinking, i could probably replace the Rear Seal and Pan Gasket without pulling the motor, there seems to be plenty of room to do so!

I'm sure that this has been done before, just wondering how difficult this procedure would be. My greatest concern is, getting all of the surfaces clean prior to re-installation of the Seal and Gasket. It doesn't look easy to get a Scraper in there, ya know? How tough is it to get the Rear Seal in correctly?

So... if a seasoned Mechanic can do this, so could anyone else, just a little bit slower, right?

Trooper · 12-21-2009, 02:23 PM

Actually i just did mine and it wasnt that bad really. Unless you have at LEAST a 3 inch lift the axle has to be unbolted. Needless to say I have a 3 inch lift and barely squeezed it out. I jacked it up in the middle of the sway bar until the rubber on the tires started squeeking before they came off the ground. The seal you have to spin around the crank was a little challenging. I took a small flathead and pushed up on one side and used long nose pliers to pull the rest out. All in all it wasnt that bad of a job. The part I was most nervous about was torqueing the crank cap on right. Be super careful not to hit the crank and scratch it. When I put the cap back on I brake cleaned the hell out of .... Damn that half circle thing the crank sits on. Then pul a little oil on it. Look at my post I did very recently here, there is a link someone put on their response to me on how to do it.

**jfxj67** · 12-21-2009, 08:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Trooper

Actually i just did mine and it wasnt that bad really. Unless you have at LEAST a 3 inch lift the axle has to be unbolted. Needless to say I have a 3 inch lift and barely squeezed it out. I jacked it up in the middle of the sway bar until the rubber on the tires started squeeking before they came off the ground. The seal you have to spin around the crank was a little challenging. I took a small flathead and pushed up on one side and used long nose pliers to pull the rest out. All in all it wasnt that bad of a job. The part I was most nervous about was torqueing the crank cap on right. Be super careful not to hit the crank and scratch it. When I put the cap back on I brake cleaned the hell out of .... Damn that half circle thing the crank sits on. Then pul a little oil on it. Look at my post I did very recently here, there is a link someone put on their response to me on how to do it.

Oooops... didn't do a thread search before posting!

Just read your thread and it is good. Alot of great replies and Mudds link was AWESOME!!!

Thanks for the motivation!!!

Trooper · 12-22-2009, 11:35 AM

you bet. let us know how it went.

**jfxj67** · 12-23-2009, 09:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Trooper

you bet. let us know how it went.

Will do, my friend!!!

Hey, just noticed you're real close to getting your CherokeeTalk.com sticker!

Trooper · 12-23-2009, 02:30 PM

Didnt even notice.

Prerunner1982 · 12-23-2009, 03:40 PM

I have to replace the oil pan gasket as well, but plan on jacking up the XJ, supporting on Jack stands and then removing the front tires and dropping the front axle to the ground to make as much room as possible.

DIVERHERB · 12-24-2009, 07:28 PM

Actually its a pretty simple job. I would raise your jeep until the wheels are off the ground, this gives a lot of extra room. On some years I take the exhaust loos at the manifold and let it also hang for clearance. As for pulling the rear main seal it helps, once you can grab it with vise grips to rotate the crankshaft as you pull and the seal will walk right out.

**muddeprived** · 12-25-2009, 09:23 AM

It's not hard at all. The hardest part of the seal replacement is getting the dang oil pan bolts off that are behind the exhaust pipes.

If you had the time and patience, remove the front axle from under the vehicle and you will LOVE working on it but this is not required if you can handle cozy and tight working conditions. I did mine with the front axle in at 4" lift.