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03-30-2009, 01:57 PM
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#1 | ||
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Jr Member
 
1984 2 Door Cherokee
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 306
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Just another LCG XJ on 35's...
Last edited by Chili Palmer; 04-15-2009 at 12:22 PM. |
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03-30-2009, 02:04 PM
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#2 |
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Jr Member
1984 2 Door Cherokee
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 306
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********
Pictures fixed! ******** D44 Gear Install Specs Cherokee D44 (not sure of the year but it's obviously '87-'90) Spool 4.88's First let me preface this with how NOT to install D44 gears! 1) Do NOT start off with a D30 install kit... 2) Do NOT forget to put the oil slinger in before installing the pinion seal... 3) Do NOT expect to get this done in 4-5 hours if you've never done this before or if you do either of the 2 above mentioned things...  Ok - on to the install... We started with the D44 that's been sitting in my garage for at least 6 months. This pic was actually taken towards the end but it's the only one I have of the entire axle...  Then we took everything out of the old axle, cleaned it up and prepped the new stuff... Empty housing...  Clean housing...sort of, this was the initial cleaning - it was pretty much spotless when we went to install the gears...  Here's the spool fresh from the box. They get shipped with some type of coating that keeps the rust off - that coating is a pain in the but to remove - I'll be getting a parts washer before I do gears again!  And here she is all cleaned up sitting next to the old carrier with 3.07's.  We put the ring gear in my oven at 170 deg and put the spool in the freezer. They were both in there for approximately 1 hour and when we took them out and put them together they went right together. We then installed the ring gear bolts using locktite and torqued them to spec. (FYI - the D44 and D30 ring gear bolts are the same size (3/8" x 24) so we did not notice our error yet...) Here are the old parts. We put them in this container and the piece of paper towards the top indicates what parts are what; i.e. ring gear side, non-ring gear side, etc. The container is a sliding shelf from a truck tool box, I have two of them and use them all the time for projects like this, they work great.  Here's dogman grinding down the old bearings to make setup bearings, while he was doing that I was cleaning the axle.  Reassembly... After we (dogman) made the setup bearings we started by putting the outer pinion cup in. We started installing it with a piece of wood and dead blow hammer but it eventually gets to deep so you can't hit is anymore but as you can see by the pic below we used the original cup and just put it in upside down (on top of the new cup) and used the dead blow hammer to seat it properly.  Next we put the new inner pinion bearing on...  As it turns out the bearing in the pic above was in fact one from my D30 install kit! When I was getting my stuff off the shelf I had to pick up the D30 install kit to get to the D44 install kit. I handed the gears to dogman and then put the D44 install kit on top of the press - well after standing there for a minute and talking to dogman I just walked to the bench - with the D30 install kit in my hand! Since this was our first time doing anything like this we didn't notice it right away; we finally noticed it when I went to install the pinion in the axle. I guess I was unaware that the pinion bearing cups (at least the inner) are identical in outside diameter as the D44 and the inner diameter of the inner pinion bearing is the same also. The angle of the bearings are slightly different which is how we figured out they were wrong...when I was installing the pinion it was not sitting as I thought it should and dogman said "the old one was like that" (without actually looking at how loose it was) and then while we were checking things out it was obvious something was not right then dogman said "Is that the D30 install kit?" - and the rest is history... We then installed the pinion (with the correct stuff) using the original shims, inner setup bearing cup, outer setup bearings and origianl pinion nut. Since we were only checking for pinion depth we did not install the oil slinger. We then installed the spool and did an initial pattern check. From the pic below we decided the pattern was right between an ideal pattern and a competition pattern (as described here) so we left it as is.  Last edited by Chili Palmer; 04-03-2009 at 12:15 AM. |
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03-30-2009, 02:05 PM
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#3 |
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Jr Member
1984 2 Door Cherokee
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 306
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The coast side was a little off, from the pic below we decided it the pattern was running a little towards the heel but we figured it was close enough and we'd check it after setting backlash.
 From this point on we didn't take a whole lot of pics because you can only take so many pictures of measuring shims... Since we were using a new carrier we started with the original shim pack but soon found it was to thin. We put the dial indicator against the side of the carrier and and moved the carrier (with the carrier bearing caps on but lose) back and forth to decide how much we needed to add. We also checked the backlash to see how much we needed to add to the ring gear side of the carrier (for every .010 in shims the back lash moves approx. .007, i.e. if you move .010 from the ring gear side, RGS to the non ring gear side, NRGS, you will open up the backlash by approx. .007). As it turned out we needed to lose about .003 to .004 in backlash and we needed to add approx .010 total for back lash we put .005 on each side of the carrier. This was still a little lose and we ultimately ended up adding approx .015 to the original shim pack. In the middle of that we decided it was time to put the pinion in with all the new hardware. We installed the new inner pinion bearing cup (with shims behind it) and put the pinion in it's place. Then on the outside (outer) we put the shim in, put the bearing in (I went to put the oil slinger in but with the bearing not pressed on yet it wouldn't fit so I set it down...big mistake...), put the yoke on and used the old pinion nut to suck the yoke in so I could put the seal on. Once the yoke was sucked down I took the old nut off, installed the seal and started to put the yoke on...right about then I noticed that it was shiny under the seal...that's because the oil slinger was sitting on my bench and not under the seal where it's supposed to be... We ended up taking the seal out (destroying it of course), putting the slinger back on and using the old pinion nut to torque it to spec - when I get a chance I'll go pick up a new seal and install the new pinion nut at that time.After the pinion was in we started working on the backlash again. After some trial and error we came up with our shim packs and decided it was time to put the new carrier bearings on. After we pressed them on and we went to install the carrier into the housing we found out that our new bearings were obviously not the same dimension of our old ones because the carrier was not going into the housing. I ended up pressing the bearings back off, taking out about .005 out of the NRGS of the carrier, by doing that the carrier was able to be put back in the housing. I then bolted the carrier bearing caps to spec (60 ft-lbs) When that was all done I rechecked the the pinion preload and the back lash and everything was in spec! I bu As far as pinion preload goes - I've been reading that it is supposed to be 14-19 in-lb's but according to Spicer documentation it's supposed to be 20-40 in-lb's with new bearings, etc. As you can see in my specs below my preload is at 30 in-lb's and I'm supposed to gain about 3 lb-in when I install the new seal Here's a pic of the final gear pattern...it looks to be just about right...  And the coast side seems to have gotten better also...  Final specs... Inner pinion shim - .042 Outer pinion shim - .080 Ring gear side carrier shim - .027 Non ring gear side carrier shim - .043 Pinion preload - 30 in-lb's Backlash - .008 (.006-.010 recommended) Final notes: Although it took most of the day to get this done (had to go out and get a couple of tools and we stopped and had lunch) it was definitely a learning experience and I had great time doing it and I'm looking forward to doing my D30 in the future. Having a press really made this a DIY job; without that press you'll either mess up a few bearings or you'll be driving back and forth to the parts store or whoever can press things on for you. I still need to get new axle bearings, fix the spring perch and fix one of the shock mount bolts and then I can put under the XJ - after I get a lift for the rear of course. Last edited by Chili Palmer; 04-03-2009 at 12:15 AM. |
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03-30-2009, 02:05 PM
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#4 |
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Jr Member
1984 2 Door Cherokee
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 306
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As you can see from this picture the shock threads are shot so something had to be done. I decided to cut the factory mounts off and modify them and raise them up for better clearance and so I don't have to buy new rear shocks! Next time I get to the hardware store I'm either going to buy a grade 8 bolt and weld it on or buy a steel rod and weld it on and thread the end - I'll probably just go with the bolt for ease of installation.
 This is a good start...  Then I did this...actually I cut this one while it was on the housing and cut the other one after it was off the housing...you get the idea...  Here I'm doing some mock-up and trying to figure out how much room I'm going to gain. I ended up moving them up about 2.75" and in about 1". By moving them in I don't have to worry about a slot for the u-bolt and the shocks are still sitting at the factory angle...the location in this picture is not correct - here I was just measuring how far up they were going to be. The rear needs to be lifted about 2.5" to match the front so that's good enough for me!  Here's the final location of the mounts.   There - no more big shock mount hanging down!   Sprayed a quick coat of primer on it and called it good for the day!  Since this writeup I have welded on some grade 8 bolts for the shocks to mount too! Last edited by Chili Palmer; 03-30-2009 at 02:38 PM. |
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03-30-2009, 02:05 PM
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#5 |
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Jr Member
1984 2 Door Cherokee
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 306
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As you can see by these 2 crappy pics the wheel wells are a little small...something needed to be done...
  Decided a little trimming was in order... Mocking up my cut line...  What I took out...  After the cut...  Needed to hammer this pinch seem down...  After the hammer...  With tire on...  Last edited by Chili Palmer; 04-03-2009 at 12:33 AM. |
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03-30-2009, 02:05 PM
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#6 |
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Jr Member
1984 2 Door Cherokee
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Join Date: Jan 2009
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The rear is a totally different story...
The Jeep sat in my garage for a very long time before I decided to trim the rear so I was able to think through a lot of ideas and I decided on cutting the whole thing out and building my own wheel wells... Not sure what happened with the pics I had but you'll see both sides mixed in here... Out with the old...    I also started cutting out the rockers for the boatsides at the same time...in this pic you can see the flap sticking out, I basically flattened it so there's no more body line protruding out...  Another pic of the rocker - or lack there of...  Here you can see where I bent the floor up so I could rivet the new panel to it; you can also see my "bend line" on the quarter panel. From there I bent the sheet metal in so I could rivet the new metal to it but still have a smooth surface on the outside...  Another pic of the floor tabs bent up...  Part of the wheel well installed...   Working on the vertical panel...to bend it around the corners I made cuts 1" apart and 1" deep then used a cresent wrench to bend the tabs over. For the long straight bends I used either the cresent wrench or a pair of sheet metal pliers I have that are 6" wide and 1.25" deep...   Vertical panel installed...  Here you can see the "tabs" I created in the floor. They'll be covered up with bed liner at some point...  My resolution for the ends and the undersides...   All told there are about 300 rivets per side! Good thing my neighbor had a rivet gun I borrowed... Last edited by Chili Palmer; 04-03-2009 at 12:42 AM. |
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03-30-2009, 02:12 PM
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#7 |
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The Guru of Nothing
'99 Cherokee XJ
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Looks like a good start man you have any drawings for a cage as of yet?
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03-30-2009, 02:39 PM
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#8 |
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Jr Member
1984 2 Door Cherokee
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For sliders I decided to go with boat sides...
Cutting out the old rockers... Here you can see the "sub-structure" I built using 1/4" plate. The vertical piece has 15 3/8" grade 8 bolts holding it on and the horizontal piece has 6. They will eventually be welded to the frame stiffeners and tied into the cage also...    Cutting the slider to fit...  Test fitting...   Bending it in my home-made press brake...(Here's a write-up on that...)   Test fitting after the bend...     Tacking it together...  Last edited by Chili Palmer; 04-03-2009 at 12:52 AM. |
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03-30-2009, 02:39 PM
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#9 |
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Jr Member
1984 2 Door Cherokee
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Here it is sitting on the welding table. Now you can see how the sub-structure attaches...
 In the middle of welding it up...   In the middle of grinding it and capping the ends...  End caps on...   Other side grinded and capped...   And finally installed...!       This was definitely one of the funnest parts of the build for me. It took quite a while to get them done but I'm happy with the end result. Now I can move onto the cage and bumpers... Last edited by Chili Palmer; 04-03-2009 at 01:00 AM. |
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03-30-2009, 02:46 PM
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#10 | |
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Jr Member
1984 2 Door Cherokee
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Quote:
EDIT: Here's a pic of an OR Fab cage. The front down bars will be similar but they'll go all the way through the floor into the sliders (unlike the dash plates for this TJ cage). There will also be a main dash bar and then some vertical supports in the middle of the windshield like this \/ or this /\ ...not entirely sure yet - I need to figure out where they're going to tie into before I put them in.  Last edited by Chili Palmer; 03-30-2009 at 03:05 PM. |
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03-30-2009, 04:11 PM
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#11 |
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Wisconsin Wheeler
1996 Cherokee Sport
iTrader: (3)
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looking real good. nice build.
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1996 Cherokee Sport/ 4.5" RC short arm suspension/ RC sway bar quick discos/ 31"x10.5"x15" general grabber AT2's/ RockCrusher Diff. Covers/ Tomken Gas Tank Skid/CB/ GTX hood vents/ Steering box brace/ Optima Red Top/ WI plates. Project Northwoods http://www.cherokeetalk.com/forum/f26/project-northwoods-1333/ |
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03-30-2009, 04:19 PM
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#12 |
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Banned Moderator
2001 Cherokee
iTrader: (7)
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You're not gonna mess with a sye or anything are ya? the reason I'm asking is cuz once you rotate the pinion for the sye, the rear sided shock mount goes down and the angle the shock mounts to it suffers, resulting in shock bushings wearing out. it's not a real big deal though.
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03-30-2009, 04:35 PM
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#13 | ||
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Jr Member
1984 2 Door Cherokee
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Quote:
Quote:
Last edited by Chili Palmer; 03-30-2009 at 04:37 PM. |
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03-30-2009, 06:09 PM
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#14 |
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The Guru of Nothing
'99 Cherokee XJ
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If I missed it my bad but how are you planning on putting dual cases under there, I havent done much research on it but I was under the impression that we didnt have enough room.
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03-31-2009, 01:30 AM
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#15 |
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Jr Member
1984 2 Door Cherokee
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XJ's have plenty of room for a doubler setup. A 231/231 (with SYE on the rear TC) doubler is only about 6" longer than a standard TC with no SYE and if you take a look at the rear DS you'll find there's plenty of room for that. The front DS actually gets lengthened about 6"...
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