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Old 06-13-2016, 02:35 PM   #421
LeonFickett
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gluckmysock View Post
Yep, been there, did that! on 31's and an open diff.

What U-joint? Nothing but Spicer for me!
It wasnt stock. It looks like I put a precision u joint in 2 years ago. I have a spare shaft I'm putting a moog in. I also found out my ball joints are completely shot after 230,000 miles lol. With the weight of the tire I always told myself the play was acceptable, with no weight on the knuckle it flops all over the place haha. Probably played a factor in the u joint holding up too...


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Old 06-13-2016, 07:34 PM   #422
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I've killed precision in mine. Spicer takes a beating.
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1996 Cherokee classic. 100k Miles, I6 HO, AW4, Np242, D30/C8.25 3.5" RE lift
My build thread: Gemini
NP242 Hack n Tap (SYE) Install
Common links: Budget MODS List And All You Ever Wanted to Know About an XJ

December 2013 Stock Class Cherokee of the month
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Old 06-13-2016, 08:35 PM   #423
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Ever seen the Almost Alloy shafts the Iron Rock Offroad sell? I kicked around getting a set.
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Old 06-14-2016, 12:08 AM   #424
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I used a moog u joint in the new shaft and after removing the Spicer caps I found d they were all well greased still after 200k in the used shaft.. Oh well lol. The moog looks about identical. I by non-greasable u joints for my axle shafts and grease able joints for my drive line u joints.

I would love to pick up a set of chromoly shafts but the ears on the u-joint part of the shaft look just as small. Ive thought about custom building a 44 front but even then the U joints are the same size. Now that I've been doing more serious crawling and pushing my limits the weak points of the axle are definitely showing...

We'll I got the Ball joints, wheel bearings and U-joints/axle

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done today. I've invested too much money into keeping this thing alive...
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Old 06-14-2016, 08:27 AM   #425
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Those almost alloys have a tab the welds over the u joint cap to strengthen it.
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Old 06-14-2016, 02:48 PM   #426
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Get axle shafts from abs. They use bigger u joints
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Old 06-15-2016, 11:03 PM   #427
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 93_cherokee View Post
Get axle shafts from abs. They use bigger u joints
Not on the newer style shafts. I think that only applies for 95 or 94 and below Cherokees.
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Old 06-16-2016, 04:09 AM   #428
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My 96 did not come with ABS, and when I blew out my axles and u-joints I replaced them with axles from a 98 GC with ABS. The ABS axles used the bigger u-joint.
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ZBeard: "How do you make good decisions? Good judgement. How do you get good judgement? Experience. How do you get experience? Bad decisions".

1996 Cherokee classic. 100k Miles, I6 HO, AW4, Np242, D30/C8.25 3.5" RE lift
My build thread: Gemini
NP242 Hack n Tap (SYE) Install
Common links: Budget MODS List And All You Ever Wanted to Know About an XJ

December 2013 Stock Class Cherokee of the month
May 2015 Modified Cherokee XJ of the Month
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Old 06-16-2016, 08:46 AM   #429
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gluckmysock View Post
My 96 did not come with ABS, and when I blew out my axles and u-joints I replaced them with axles from a 98 GC with ABS. The ABS axles used the bigger u-joint.
Okay, apparently it is 1997+ that came with them. Factory non ABS 297 joints in the front axle shaft. Spicer has drop in replacement joints that are even beefier now. I think it's a 960 joint. Same size caps but the joint itself is larger and cold forged instead of hot forged like the 297.

My stock non abs shaft was a 297 and my replacement shaft happened to also be. Both 1997 Cherokee sports, non abs
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Old 07-28-2016, 10:44 PM   #430
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Picked up some cheap dana 30 shafts from a 05 TJ. Replaced the U joints with Spicer 760 joints. Decided to give the "almost Alloy" weld on braces a shot. The failure point on these shafts tend to be at the U joint or the ears on the shaft, In either case you'll need new shafts even if the axle itself does not break. Replaced the inner axle seals while I was at it and noticed My backlash seems a bit excessive after some miles... Curious to see what will blow up next haha

I tried posting pictures but the phone app doesn't work anymore. . .
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Old 07-29-2016, 08:44 PM   #431
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I pretty much did the same swap on my 96 XJ. But my shafts were from a 98 WJ that had ABS. I agree, if your u-joint fails, your replacing axles anyhow.
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ZBeard: "How do you make good decisions? Good judgement. How do you get good judgement? Experience. How do you get experience? Bad decisions".

1996 Cherokee classic. 100k Miles, I6 HO, AW4, Np242, D30/C8.25 3.5" RE lift
My build thread: Gemini
NP242 Hack n Tap (SYE) Install
Common links: Budget MODS List And All You Ever Wanted to Know About an XJ

December 2013 Stock Class Cherokee of the month
May 2015 Modified Cherokee XJ of the Month
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Old 07-29-2016, 10:20 PM   #432
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Welded more than a needed too and didn't grind any welds off. Clearances checked out good so I left it. I figured when it breaks I'll have to replace it anyways.








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Old 07-30-2016, 05:05 AM   #433
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Why did you weld it?
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Old 07-30-2016, 02:37 PM   #434
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That's how the almost alloy caps work. It's just 1/8th plate steel bent to fit over the U joint caps. It strengthens the ears of the inner and outer shafts so they won't bend. I just welded more than I needed too because I don't plan on removing the caps or reusing these shafts again. Once they blow they're trash anyways.
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Old 08-06-2016, 02:40 PM   #435
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Added some small light pods to my bumper to my bumper a month ago. Very bright for their size and make a world difference night wheeling. I didn't want to over do it with a full size light bar... 2 spot lights and 1 7in flood is plenty for me.




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