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Seasoned
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****BLAH**** Last edited by bitchofanxj; 07-11-2010 at 09:05 PM. |
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#3 |
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Wisconsin Wheeler
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real good looking jeep. cant wait for more progress.
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1996 Cherokee Sport/ 4.5" RC short arm suspension/ RC sway bar quick discos/ 31"x10.5"x15" general grabber AT2's/ RockCrusher Diff. Covers/ Tomken Gas Tank Skid/CB/ GTX hood vents/ Steering box brace/ Optima Red Top/ WI plates. Project Northwoods http://www.cherokeetalk.com/forum/f26/project-northwoods-1333/ |
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#4 |
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muddin moderator
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thats gunna look good
how are you planning ondoing behind the seats you have a picture of a 2 door as your ultimate goal and you drive a 4 door so ... im curious
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chris hammer down!!!! Last edited by stamp; 02-20-2010 at 02:26 PM. |
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#5 |
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There are a couple of things you will need to consider to do this. first, to chop the back that much you will need to convert the rear to coils or 1/4 elliptic. Second to move the front axle that far forward, you will have to move the steering box too. You can only move it a little ways before you have to extend the frame unless you go to full hydraulic steering
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#6 | |
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Seasoned
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Quote:
Here is a guy off of pirate that did it. He kept all the body behind the rear wheel wells though. ![]()
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****BLAH**** |
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#7 | |
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Seasoned
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****BLAH**** |
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#8 |
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Seasoned
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My 8.8 with all the crap that needs to be cut off and removed.
![]() ![]() The 34x10.5 LTB's Brand new got a great deal on them, the guy I bought them from used them on 3 trail rides and they have never seen pavement. ![]() I'm not sure what gears I will be running in the axles quite yet, maybe you guys can help me with that descision. I have 4.10's in my D30 and 35 right now and will probally get everything set up and test the tires out with my current axles and descide if I want 4.56's or 4.88's after that.
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****BLAH**** |
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#9 |
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Seasoned
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I got rid of my crapped out stock LCA mounts this summer and made some new ones out of some 3/16" plate. They mount right to the side of the axle tube now rather than below it like the stockers. They won't be dragging across any more rocks and my control arms sit almost level now. I welded a plate to the bottom of the bracket to join the two tabs and the way they were set up I had to weld the shock tab to the top of the control arm. Everything seems to work great and I won't have to worry about them breaking or the bolt holes wearing out. The RC X-Series arms are awesome too.
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****BLAH**** |
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#10 |
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Senior Member
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Right on man, looks good. The chop will be a ton of work, but sounds like it will be pretty wicked in the end.
I like the idea with the relocation of the control arm mount. I smashed up the mount on my driver side on a trip one time... then, on the day of my wedding, it finally let go. It was like two hours before the ceremony and all i can think about is my damn jeep. It was great.
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1998 XJ Classic. 4.5 RC lift, some tires, some armor, more balls then brains. My jeep build: http://www.cherokeetalk.com/forum/f26/deepwater-jeep-7508/ |
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#11 | |
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Seasoned
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****BLAH**** |
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#12 |
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Well I'm getting ready to throw the 34's on and have it re-aligned so I figured I needed to do something about the chincy ass tie rod. On the last XJ I bent the stock tie rod while running a set of 33x12.5 MT's, since the LTB's I'll be running are taller and a little more knobby I had to do something about it. I was going to buy a new V8 ZJ tie rod but I already had one new end for the XJ rod so I figured I'd just buy another end and beef it up a bit.
Measured out the tube and cut it in half, drilled 5 holes on each piece to plug weld it on each side. ![]() Tacked and plug welded the first side on, held it in place with some vise grips worked great. ![]() ![]() Welded on the other side and stitch welded at the seams. It added about a 1/4" to the overall diameter. ![]() ![]() ![]() Do you guys think I should just keep the seams stitched together or do you think I should completely weld both seams together?
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****BLAH**** |
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#13 |
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Veteran
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should look good.
I do not understand why you say you have to change the rear from Springs 4.3... lots of people have change an xj to a chop like that and have not changed from leafs... he)) I have done it a few times without problems.... just asking your reasoning... as far as the chop pic from pirate.... taht jeep has a Comanche roof and rear cab section on it.... something to think about as the roof on a MJ s taller inside then a xj and a lot stronger then a XJ.. another thing is that the cab rear is the same dimentions as the xj so its an eazy fab and they are stronger then whats left of an xj after you cut it up... looks like a build to watch
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He Who Dies With The Most Toy's WIN's http://www.cherokeetalk.com/forum/f23/tazs-jeeps-2619/ |
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#14 | |
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#15 | |
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Well the tie rod is done and the paint is drying. I descided to fully weld both seams, I was worried about the whole thing warping from the heat but I only welded half of it on each side then let it cool down before I welded the rest up. Worked out good, not pretty but a hellofa lot stronger. I'll post pics up tomorrow when I get the new ends put on.
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![]() ![]() It would probally be easier to just start with a comanche but I'm broke and laid off and have a cherokee so thats how its gonna be.
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****BLAH**** Last edited by bitchofanxj; 03-10-2010 at 05:46 PM. |
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