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06-18-2010, 12:23 PM
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#1
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Newbie
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 15
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Engine Life?
How many miles should I expect to get out of a 4.0L engine? When does an engine start burning (add oil between 3k changes) oil assuming 3k oil/filter change with good oil? What are common things to look out for on an engine that has 130k or more? Thanks
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06-18-2010, 12:54 PM
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#2
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Banned
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 1,905
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Things to look out for with a 130,00+ mileage engine: Sensors going bad, Oil leaking from the "O" ring on the oil adapter where the oil filter goes on, cracked exhaust manifolds. I have had these engines go over 300,000 miles without buring oil and are still in use today without oil consumption. Another thing to look for is a tick in the engine that seems to sound like a lifter tick.....but is usually a head issue in the number 2 cyl because there are hotspots in the head.
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06-19-2010, 02:42 AM
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#3
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Desert Rat
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: El Mirage, Arizona
Posts: 4,793
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200K on my present 4.0L
325K on my last, before it got smashed...
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Project Screamin' Demon
Build Thread
'95 XJ 2 Door - 3" Spacers, 31" TSL's
'07 Landa PGHW ( Money Pit)!
"Keep Coming Back, It Works... If You Work It"!!!
Jim - XJ Addict
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06-19-2010, 09:22 PM
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#4
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Experienced
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Statesboro, GA
Posts: 164
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The "Big 4" oil leaks: valve cover, oil pan, rear main, oil filter adaptor.
As long as you pay attention when your motor yells at you, it can provide you with many miles of service.
Currently have 180K on my '98 4.0L.
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06-23-2010, 03:18 PM
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#5
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Newbie
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 6
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good stuff.
i only have 106K on mine currently, but its nice to know what and where to watch for things.
anymore info. on the oil adapter? that is the only spot mine is slowly leaking from. pretty straight forward fix?
Last edited by Amsterdam; 06-23-2010 at 03:21 PM.
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06-23-2010, 05:53 PM
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#6
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Banned
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 1,905
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I believe it is a hex head on the end of the adapter...just one bolt and thats it but it will strip out sometimes and you will need to weld another nut on the end to get it off. It is just an "O" ring that cost less than around a dollar and that is it to fix it. The O-rings get dry and hard which makes it leak.
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06-23-2010, 11:02 PM
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#7
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Experienced
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Statesboro, GA
Posts: 164
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepgod
I believe it is a hex head on the end of the adapter....
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It differs depending on the year. Mine is a Torx hole. Can't remember the size off the top of my head....
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06-24-2010, 10:59 AM
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#8
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Jr Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 321
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RenegadeStang
It differs depending on the year. Mine is a Torx hole. Can't remember the size off the top of my head....
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Pretty sure its a T55 or a T60. I had to cut mine down so it would fit in the gap with a breaker bar. Its an easy fix given that your bit is not locked down too tight, if it is be prepared to swear.
My XJ has 160,xxx and i had to replace the filter adapter o rings at 135,xxx. I used to have an 89 xj with 260,xxx. So they last a long time, I was not gentle on mine either so, even abused, as long as you keep it oiled and cooled it will run.
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2001 XJ Silver 178,225 miles
3 Rusty's Full Packs
DD 30 inch Pro Comp AT's
Off Road 31 inch Maxxis Bighorns
Skyjacker Hydros
Front Tow Hooks
Off road scars were free.
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06-24-2010, 12:38 PM
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#9
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Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Sandy Level
Posts: 1,122
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The jeep I just watched go up the road(just got rid of it) had 350,xxx on it with a 5 speed. I was rough on it every day constate burn outs. and NEVER had anything major done.
__________________
RIP Purple People Eater
98 Jeep XJ Sport
4.0L
AW4
Chryo 8.25
D30
Purple from the factory with a sun roof.
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06-25-2010, 06:27 AM
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#10
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Newbie
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Front Royal, Virginia
Posts: 18
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Jeep God From what you are just said describes what I believe is going on with my jeep. the exhaust I already know is cracked what I wanted to know is it possible to weld it closed and if so will the weld hold or is there anything else that can be done to fix it with out having to replace the whole thing.
I also hear a tick in the engine as well what can be done to fix that?
I haven't seen any oil leaking lately but at one point earlier this year around that area where the oil filter is I was seeing oil under my jeep.
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06-25-2010, 10:07 AM
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#11
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Banned
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 1,905
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welding exhaust
Quote:
Originally Posted by SG1Tealc
Jeep God From what you are just said describes what I believe is going on with my jeep. the exhaust I already know is cracked what I wanted to know is it possible to weld it closed and if so will the weld hold or is there anything else that can be done to fix it with out having to replace the whole thing.
I also hear a tick in the engine as well what can be done to fix that?
I haven't seen any oil leaking lately but at one point earlier this year around that area where the oil filter is I was seeing oil under my jeep.
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1st Exhaust: You can weld it but it will not last and is a bandaid fix. The quick fix may last you a few days to a few weeks before it starts to crack again. The reason for this is the metal has grown weak or thin from use. The reason for the cracking is the engine torque twisting the engine and over time weakening the exhaust at its weak point where the collectors are. The stock after market repacements try to help this but they will crack eventually too. A suggestion: buy polyurethane engine mounts, this helps reduce the twisting of the engine and prevents the ehaust from cracking. A warning though, this may cause a little more vibration in your cab.
2nd Ticking: Although I am not there to see it, it is probably your valves. Many people think this is a lifter problem but it is not, and to aleiviate this problem the head needs to be taken off and sent in for a rebuild which can cost around $200 or you can get one from a good autoparts store for around the same price. These engines will run for many miles before having a lot of issues. What happens is carbon build up or just too many miles causes the valves to not seat right.
3 oil leaking: this is from the "O" ring located in the oil adapter if you have one where the oil filter connects to. It is a simple fix and the o-ring only costs about a dollar. There i sone hex bolt or torx bit bolt on the end that you take out to remove the oil adapter.
Hope these things help you
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06-26-2010, 08:28 PM
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#12
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Newbie
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 23
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216 + and still pulls like a mother f*&^%!....
clean oil every 3000 miles, clean air filter, flush and replace radiator stuff once a year--and cool hood vents toooo-
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07-03-2010, 06:08 PM
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#13
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Jr Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: kelso, WA
Posts: 357
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252k, and running great, but my exhaust is getting bad, the o-ring is the easiest problem to prevent, its mostly caused by cheap oil changes where the technician didnt prime the o-ring with oil before installing the filter
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'91 xj laredo, 4 inches lift all around,32x8.5in bfgoodrich tires on 16x8 cragar soft 8's,baja lights(walmart specials),led ground lights up front, uniden cb with 5' firestik, police scanner, rough country lca's, relocated brakelines, heavy duty tow hitch wit 5 in drop, cd/amp/aux speakers/ 12in sub,
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07-04-2010, 01:26 AM
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#14
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Veteran
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,244
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Just over 190k 35" tires and I wheel the **** out of it, drive it daily and its still going strong!
Edit: knock on wood.....
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07-05-2010, 03:47 AM
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#15
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Jr Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: kelso, WA
Posts: 357
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRW7072009
Just over 190k 35" tires and I wheel the **** out of it, drive it daily and its still going strong!
Edit: knock on wood.....
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i assume you re-geared??
__________________
'91 xj laredo, 4 inches lift all around,32x8.5in bfgoodrich tires on 16x8 cragar soft 8's,baja lights(walmart specials),led ground lights up front, uniden cb with 5' firestik, police scanner, rough country lca's, relocated brakelines, heavy duty tow hitch wit 5 in drop, cd/amp/aux speakers/ 12in sub,
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