Changing 93-98 V8 Rear Main seal, oil pan gasket and oil pump.
Estimated time: 4-6 Hours
Tools Needed:
10mm-19mm Assorted Sockets/Extensions and Wrenches
Oil Filter Wrench
Screw Drivers, Flat head variety
Drain Pan
Air Tools if you have them
Parts:
Brake Cleaner 2 Cans $5
2” Cleaning Discs (For air tools, not required) $2
New Fasteners for Exhaust (not required) $7
Oil Pan Gasket Mopar P/N 53005650 $35
Rear Main Seal Mopar P/N 04778228 $15
Oil Pump Mopar P/N 02806270 (recommended) $60
Black RTV/Silicone (Right stuff or Mopar) $6
Loctite 514 $3
Oil and Filter Castrol Syntec, Fram Filter $35
Exhaust Doughnut for stock manifolds or Collector Gaskets for Headers $7
Red Line Assembly Lube (not required) $15
Needless to say after 150K on the clock the rear main oil drip was unbearable anymore. Doing this on your back must suck to say the least, so once all the parts are gathered get it organized and get ready.
First things first, I wiped down all the old oil that I could as to not have it drip in my eyes while looking while working.
Disconnect battery, and Remove Dip Stick, Then remove the Exhaust Crossover pipe and set aside. Disconnect Starter wires. Unbolt and remove starter (2bolts~16mm socket), set aside. Remove nut holding Tranny cooler lines to oil pan (11mm socket). Remove the bolts holding the Flex plate Dust Shield (4bolts~11mm socket), inspect shield for Dents or Warping, if it is found that the Shield is indeed bent, simply pound with hammer until straight again. Drain Oil from Pan entirely (plug 16mm socket). Remove all bolts holding the Oil Pan in place (12mm socket) and slowly lower the pan, be cautious not to bash the oil pump pick-up screen.
Remove Oil Pump Bolts (2 bolts~16mm socket) Careful this is messy !
Remove Rear Main Cap (2 bolts~19mm socket) & Loosen the Second to last main cap.
Once the items are removed, clean thoroughly.
VERY gently push the ORANGE Rear Main Seal around the Crank Shaft with a Flat head screw driver, DO NOT SRATCH THE CRANK JOURNAL. Pay Attention as to which direction the seal is facing as to reinstall correctly. Also remove the Orange seal from the Main Cap.
Clean/Prep the Block surface with Razor Blade and Brake Cleaner to remove old gasket material and oil contaminates, also clean the Main Cap where the Seal seats in it. DO NOT REMOVE MAIN CAP BEARING.
Thoroughly LUBE the seal and slide into Main Cap. Also wipe the Bearing with CLEAN CLOTH and apply assembly lube to TOP ONLY as seen in picture below.
Lube the other half of the Rear Main Seal, Reinstall the seal into the block so the lip on the seal matches the lower seal and GENTLY push it with a flat head screw driver until it’s all the way around like picture above.
Reinstall Main Cap with just a DAB of Loctite on the Cap to Block surface and Torque Bolts to 85ft lbs as required. Before installing new Oil Pump, remove pick up tube from the old Pump, and reinstall it into the new pump, mine was 4 ½ Turns and then just level it to the oil pan. Pour oil into new pump from the top side, while spinning the pump shaft. See picture below…
Silicone all four corners of the front and rear seals, (the round parts of the oil pan). Drop New Oil Pan Gasket onto the Oil Pan, and lightly silicone the top side of the gasket in the same areas. Reinstall the Oil Pan with all the bolts and torque to 18ft lbs each. Reinstall the Dust shield and Starter (wires too). The tranny cooler line mount and Oil Filter and Oil Pan Drain Plug. Reinstall all exhaust that was removed.
All clean… Time to double check everything that was removed. Refill with new Oil and check Dip stick.
I also suggest that you run the vehicle for a while to check for any leaks, Oil/Exhaust. Now you know what I say it must suck to do this on your back.
Credit for this article goes to the
B.C. Jeep Club
Changing 93-98 V8 Rear Main seal, oil pan gasket and oil pump.
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