Front mounted tie rod setup?

[muddeprived]

Is there a tie rod/draglink setup where the tie rod is actually in front of the draglink instead of behind it (where it mounts to the draglink)?

[4.3L XJ]

Can't think of one. Why do you ask?

[muddeprived]

Originally Posted by 4.3L XJ

Can't think of one. Why do you ask?

A possible fix for this:



My tie rod and sway bar link are "mating" every now and then. I figured if I had a steering setup where the tie rod was in front then it would be fine, otherwise currie's setup is what I'm doing. I know they have a deeper bend at the draglink for this reason. I don't have access to a welder so I can't moved the bracket.

[4.3L XJ]

What you need is a front mounted drag link set up. That has been done on tons of closed knuckle Jeeps and on the open knuckle D30 in the CJ5,6&7

[86rokee]

why is it coming that close? just from lift? seems a few things must be off. but you seem to have a fair amount tied up in your xj, i would go with a steering like i posted but not from rustys,
Jeep Horizons :: Rusty's Steering Upgrade

or

this is what you want! front facing, woot woot!

1-Ton Steering Upgrade: JcrOffroad, Inc.

[86rokee]

i found this too

ORO Off Road Only Jeep TJ U-Turn Steering System Installation

[muddeprived]

Originally Posted by 86rokee

why is it coming that close? just from lift? seems a few things must be off. but you seem to have a fair amount tied up in your xj, i would go with a steering like i posted but not from rustys,
Jeep Horizons :: Rusty's Steering Upgrade

or

this is what you want! front facing, woot woot!

1-Ton Steering Upgrade: JcrOffroad, Inc.

I was lookin at those setups and a few others but I'm gonna stick with the stock style setup. I have no issues with it and i'm at 4.5" but with a drop pitman arm and trackbar bracket so my angles aren't that bad to need a crossover setup. I also want to avoid any trackbar relocating, which is required on rusty's a few other kits that raise the draglink tie rod.

[4.3L XJ]

Mud

There is one more option few consider. Have a CV joint on the far end of your front driveline. That way you can correct your angles and not have a problem with any of it and be vibration free.

[muddeprived]

Originally Posted by 4.3L XJ

Mud

There is one more option few consider. Have a CV joint on the far end of your front driveline. That way you can correct your angles and not have a problem with any of it and be vibration free.

Do you mean a dual double cardian cv shaft?

[86rokee]

Originally Posted by muddeprived

Do you mean a dual double cardian cv shaft?

isnt that just stock on all 4.0 jeeps? you could go to tacoma screw and look for a bolt like the one used on the sway bar links with a torx face and round like a carriage bolt and then if it did hit it it would slide over, but from that pic i it looks like it could solve your problem

[4.3L XJ]

Originally Posted by muddeprived

Do you mean a dual double cardian cv shaft?

I think that is the terminology. Anyway CV at both ends. I would have to research it, but I believe it might be done using another used front driveline.

[muddeprived]

Originally Posted by 86rokee

isnt that just stock on all 4.0 jeeps? you could go to tacoma screw and look for a bolt like the one used on the sway bar links with a torx face and round like a carriage bolt and then if it did hit it it would slide over, but from that pic i it looks like it could solve your problem

Our front shafts are double cardian cv driveshafts. they also have dual double cardian shafts that have TWO cv assemblies on it, one at the t-case and one at the pinion. I think that's what 4.3 was talkin about.



Right now the tie rod would hit the sway bar link at the bottom and slide against it and then hit the bracket last. It doesn't stop the steering or anything but it does make quite a bit of resistance when it does tap the sway bar link.

[4.3L XJ]

Originally Posted by muddeprived

Our front shafts are double cardian cv driveshafts. they also have dual double cardian shafts that have TWO cv assemblies on it, one at the t-case and one at the pinion. I think that's what 4.3 was talkin about.

Right now the tie rod would hit the sway bar link at the bottom and slide against it and then hit the bracket last. It doesn't stop the steering or anything but it does make quite a bit of resistance when it does tap the sway bar link.

Yes, that is what I mean. The terminology there has always been confusing to me.

[86rokee]

i was thinking backwards, long day, anyways i wouldnt get into the driveline to solve this problem. you would be pointing the pinion just to stop hitting the tre and even though alot of angle can be achieved using that driveline it still has resitance and a custom axle cost more than the steering upgrade. and everyone i know who have done similar steering upgrades with a full on peice tierod love how much better the steering is.they say its more responsive, and there are some where you dont have to do anything with the track bar. the one im talking about is in the stock location, its not a high steer. the Y design just sucks period and thats whats causing you to hit, the lift is pulling everything up. i would say you need a bigger pitman drop if anything. the drive shaft would be nice if you had a jeep on 37s or or over 6" of lift. but then your already in long arm country.

[drakan1908]

Mudd this is the Grand section.HAHAHA I think you secretly want a Grand.