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jkmrdck420 · 09-02-2010, 08:34 PM

so im swapping a lift kit off my old jeep on to a new one
3.5" Suspension Lift Kit (EZ-FLEX w/rear leaf springs) for 87-01 Cherokee 4wd by Tuff Country
thats the lift kit.

what order do i go about swapping em?
keep in mind i only have one set of spring compressors and two sets of jack stands.
any help is aprieciated.

**muddeprived** · 09-03-2010, 08:00 AM

If you got two sets of jack stands then park both jeeps side by side and work one corner at a time on both jeeps. For instance, jack up the rear as high as you can and put the stands under the frame rail near the front of the leaf springs and then lower the axle till the weight is off the springs. Do this with both jeeps. Disconnect the springs and swap.

Then repeat with the front. You might not need to use the spring compressors since you are disconnecting the lower arms to swap them over too. Put the stands under the frame as high as you can get it. Disconnect the trackbar axle end, drag link tie rod on passenger knuckle, sway bar links, and shocks. Unbolt one side's lower arm and then droop the axle till the spring comes out. Swap arms/springs/shocks on that side and then reconnect and raise back up. Repeat on other side. Since the lower arm, steering, and trackbar are disconnected, your axle on that side should droop and coil pop out without the use of compressors.

Remember to loosely install all the bolts until the jeep is on all four and then tighten. Do not tighten bolts while the jeep is on jack stands or axles drooping.

XJPioneer · 09-03-2010, 08:36 AM

I agree about not having the use the spring compressors. It is much safer to do it as Mud stated any how. I've been hit with my fair share of renegade compressors, and I've seen someone get shot with a coil, it is not a tasty treat like some may think.

jkmrdck420 · 09-04-2010, 06:42 PM

alright so i have disconnected the track bar removed the wheels disconnected the knuckles from track bar.
now i cant get the bar to disconnect from the pitman arm.
any suggestions?

also cud u be more clear on where to put the stand exactly to get the springs out safely.
i have passenger side control arm removed do i need to remove the upper as well??
because ill droop it as much as it will flex and it still wont come out.

if theres anyone in santa rosa that cud actually come help id love that and cud pay u a bit, but keep in mind im only 16 and not made of money..

thanks again guys

xjman4life · 09-04-2010, 06:57 PM

You do not need to discoe your steering parts..just sway bar..LCA's and let the axle droop. That is what worked for me.

jkmrdck420 · 09-04-2010, 07:02 PM

are you sure?
the adjustments are so different like the length.. will i be able to drive it without getting an allignment first.?

**muddeprived** · 09-04-2010, 07:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jkmrdck420

alright so i have disconnected the track bar removed the wheels disconnected the knuckles from track bar.
now i cant get the bar to disconnect from the pitman arm.
any suggestions?

also cud u be more clear on where to put the stand exactly to get the springs out safely.
i have passenger side control arm removed do i need to remove the upper as well??
because ill droop it as much as it will flex and it still wont come out.

if theres anyone in santa rosa that cud actually come help id love that and cud pay u a bit, but keep in mind im only 16 and not made of money..

thanks again guys

Just disconnect the passenger knuckle tie rod if needed. No need to mess with the pitman arm. You jack up the axle as far as you can and then put the jack stands under the frame rails behind the lower control arms (frame side). Then droop the axle as far as you can. If you need more droop, jack up the opposite side of the axle and it will make that side go down more.

jkmrdck420 · 09-04-2010, 07:03 PM

the sway bar is the stabalizer bar right??

do i disconnect both lcas then droop one side and swap springs then repeat on other side?
or just one lca at a time?

jkmrdck420 · 09-04-2010, 07:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by muddeprived

Just disconnect the passenger knuckle tie rod if needed. No need to mess with the pitman arm. You jack up the axle as far as you can and then put the jack stands under the frame rails behind the lower control arms (frame side). Then droop the axle as far as you can. If you need more droop, jack up the opposite side of the axle and it will make that side go down more.

so the way i have my jackstands is wrong then?

this is what i tried.
i jacked it from the axle center
then put a jackstand under the driver lca connection ( where lca mounts to axle.
then i drooped the other side and coudnt get enough droop.

jkmrdck420 · 09-04-2010, 07:08 PM

but about the pitman arm and the stearing connections.
i dont need to swap those?
will i need to do adjusting to the connections on the newly lifted jeep then??

**muddeprived** · 09-04-2010, 07:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jkmrdck420

so the way i have my jackstands is wrong then?

this is what i tried.
i jacked it from the axle center
then put a jackstand under the driver lca connection ( where lca mounts to axle.
then i drooped the other side and coudnt get enough droop.

No jack stands under the axle. They go under the frame rails to support the jeep so it doesn't fall on you. If you got two jacks, put one on each side of the axle tube but if not, just put it in the center. You gotta drop the axle as far as it will go.

Back when I had only one jack, I would lower the axle onto two cinder blocks then move the jack to the side of the axle i wasn't working on. Then I would jack that side up a little then remove the cinder block on the opposite side to let it droop more. With the jeep on jack stands (frame rail) you can lift the side of the axle up enough to remove the block. The axles aren't that heavy to lift.

**muddeprived** · 09-04-2010, 07:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jkmrdck420

but about the pitman arm and the stearing connections.
i dont need to swap those?
will i need to do adjusting to the connections on the newly lifted jeep then??

You don't really need to swap the steering parts over unless you want to, or if they are newer than the ones you are replacing. Do you plan to swap the steering parts too? If you do, go to the parts store and get a tie rod/pitman arm puller, or if you don't got much cash, a pickle fork.

You will need an alignment after all this is done, FYI.

jkmrdck420 · 09-04-2010, 08:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by muddeprived

No jack stands under the axle. They go under the frame rails to support the jeep so it doesn't fall on you. If you got two jacks, put one on each side of the axle tube but if not, just put it in the center. You gotta drop the axle as far as it will go.

Back when I had only one jack, I would lower the axle onto two cinder blocks then move the jack to the side of the axle i wasn't working on. Then I would jack that side up a little then remove the cinder block on the opposite side to let it droop more. With the jeep on jack stands (frame rail) you can lift the side of the axle up enough to remove the block. The axles aren't that heavy to lift.

right now i have a hydraulic jack and a set of jack stands.
if im following u right u want me to put the jack stands on the frame rail right behind the mounts for lcas.. but if i do that then let the jack down then it will rest even? wont it? dont i need a stand on the driver side of the axle to make the other side droop? or will it droop on its own because the lca is disconnected?

jkmrdck420 · 09-04-2010, 08:10 PM

btw thanks alot mudd. u never fail to help me out.

**muddeprived** · 09-04-2010, 08:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jkmrdck420

right now i have a hydraulic jack and a set of jack stands.
if im following u right u want me to put the jack stands on the frame rail right behind the mounts for lcas.. but if i do that then let the jack down then it will rest even? wont it? dont i need a stand on the driver side of the axle to make the other side droop? or will it droop on its own because the lca is disconnected?

Yeah when you got the stands at the same height under the frame rail, it will keep the body straight and up out of the way. It's also a safety precaution. Always have the frame "standed" when working on the springs. Once you have the jack stands under there, just let the axle droop with the jack. It will eventually stop, either when the jack is at the lowest or the axle is at the lowest possible droop point. The side with the missing lower arm will droop the furthest and the coil should pop out. I use a rolling jack under my axle when doing the springs cuz it goes all the way down to 3" off the ground, and then I just pull it out and let the axle fall to the ground. If i need more droop on, let's say the driver's side, then i put the jack under the passenger side axle and jack it up. the driver's side then will droop a couple more inches.