2013 V6 Grand Cherokee Fuel Pump Relay Recall P54 / NHTSA 14V-530


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Old 11-30-2019, 03:19 PM   #1
Turbo_Boss
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Default 2013 V6 Grand Cherokee Fuel Pump Relay Recall P54 / NHTSA 14V-530

Hello Guys

I have a 2013 V6 Jeep Grand Cherokee that have a Long Crank before Engine Start.

So after looking over the internet I found that there was a recall for 2012/2013. There was a tiny fuel power relay inside the TIPM (Relay Box) that’s was the problem. So the cure was installing an external relay as you can read here:

http://www.verticalvisions.com/docum...2015_00000.pdf

This repair was done by the Jeep Dealer before they deliver the car to me when it was new.

My car has been working perfectly until a few weeks ago when it start to develop the same Long Crank before Engine Start.

So checking this recall, I decide to check that relay. I found the external relay with an independent fuse holder. Open the fuse holder and to my surprise, the plastic part of the fuse was melted.

Checking further found that the wire going from the fuse holder to the relay socket was like rotten (wire was corroded (turns from shinny copper to black)

So I decided to change everything. New Fuse Holder, Relay Socket, even that they use a Bosh relay I install a new Bosh 30/40 amp Relay. Installed everything and the engine start immediately!

So I went out with car and like every 10 minutes I stop the car in some parking spot, shut off the engine, wait 20 seconds and press the start button and this thing start immediately. I do this like 10 times and every time this thing start immediately.

So I drive to a store to buy something, was there like 20 or 30 minutes and going back to my car. When press the Start Button it was with the same Long Crank before Engine Start problem.

So I drive back to my home stopping in some places to check again if the engine starts OK and guess what. This thing was starting immediately.

So at my house I do the same test and everything was ok………. But decide to wait 30 minutes and then try to start the engine and there was the same Long Crank before Engine Start problem.

Its look like there has to be a problem with the fuel that goes back to the tank after some time the engine is sitting off and there is no fuel on the fuel injector rail and that`s why I have this problem.

Have any of you has experienced this problem? How you solved? What part you advise me to check or replace.

Thx for your time and help

Isaac
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Old 11-30-2019, 08:07 PM   #2
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Man, that is a drag.

If it's a fuel pump/delivery issue. try turning the key on, but not start it, and listen for the fuel pump to come on then shut off. you can turn the key on and off a few times waiting for the the fuel pump to shut off each time. It should start immediately when you do this.

It's sound to me like it's loosing prime after it set for 20-30 minutes.
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Old 12-01-2019, 01:43 AM   #3
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I agree
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Old 12-01-2019, 08:28 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gluckmysock View Post
Man, that is a drag.

It's sound to me like it's loosing prime after it set for 20-30 minutes.
Hey Gluckmysock, my car has a start button. So I can´t turn on and off the key so the Fuel Pump prime the fuel rail.

Do you know how to fix this Losing Prime? O what parts do I have to check?

Thx for your time and help

Isaac
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Old 12-01-2019, 10:04 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbo_Boss View Post
Hey Gluckmysock, my car has a start button. So I can´t turn on and off the key so the Fuel Pump prime the fuel rail.

Do you know how to fix this Losing Prime? O what parts do I have to check?

Thx for your time and help

Isaac
If you have a start button, then you must have another switch (toggle?) to turn your ignition and electrics on, this should also turn on your fuel pump. you will hear a humming when you first turn this switch on, but should go off after 2 seconds, which is how long the fuel pump relay stays engaged when you turn on the key. When you move the key to start, the fuel pump stays engaged, and after the ECM senses oil pressure it locks the relay in.

If you lose prime, it is probably the check valve built into the fuel pump, short of replacing the fuel pump, you can install a check valve into the rubber fuel supply line just before it goes into the fuel rail.



These can be picked up at most part stores.

Here is a link to one on amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Return-Check-.../dp/B06XK2C13R

They are basically a steel ball that fits onto a machined seat. fuel flows one direction but not the other. which keeps fuel primed at the rail.
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Old 12-02-2019, 09:16 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gluckmysock View Post
If you lose prime, it is probably the check valve built into the fuel pump, short of replacing the fuel pump, you can install a check valve into the rubber fuel supply line just before it goes into the fuel rail.



These can be picked up at most part stores.

Here is a link to one on amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Return-Check-.../dp/B06XK2C13R

They are basically a steel ball that fits onto a machined seat. fuel flows one direction but not the other. which keeps fuel primed at the rail.

Hey Gluckmysock, Yes I understand how the check valve works.

Now hear this..... Sunday Morning this thing start Immediately....... Today Monday morning it start immediately......... So in the way to work, I stop for a coffee, when to start the engine and there was the long crank before start problem............. Its look like the problem happens only when the engine is up to the working temperature........ Maybe when the engine is off the fuel in the fuel rail goes evaporated because engine is hot

Thx

Isaac
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Old 12-02-2019, 11:22 AM   #7
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I know some of the older cherokees had heat soak issues, mine does if I am idling too much on the trails, it will spit and sputter till I can get the cooler fuel to the injectors. But I never heard anything about it on the newer Cherokee, especially a v6. Hmm.
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