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Old 09-21-2019, 10:36 PM   #136
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I guess I should find out how it was originally routed on a ZJ.
(DaingMaing? )
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Old 09-22-2019, 10:55 AM   #137
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Ok I finally got it, after figuring out that Iím an idiot and the banjo fittings do indeed get oriented facing up, not forward.

Now onto squeezing in the front control arms.
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Old 09-22-2019, 11:30 AM   #138
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Oh yeah. Much much better. And safer!
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1996 Cherokee classic. 100k Miles, I6 HO, AW4, Np242, D30/C8.25 3.5" RE lift
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Old 09-22-2019, 03:15 PM   #139
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Finally some progress today, made way way through the road blocks that have been holding me up.
After Settling on a rear brake line configuration, I moved on to grinding down the front control arm bushing sleeves and adjustment brackets to allow them fit into the control arm drop brackets. After a lot of work with the angle grinder I finally got them to side right in.
Before:

After:
Also shaved down the adjustment brackets quite a bit.
After I snugged up all the control arm bolts I moved on to the new ball joints.
I cleaned up the knuckle openings with a wire wheel and smoothed put some rust and pitting, and warmed them up with the torch. The Spicer ball joints have been in the freezer for weeks, and much to my delight they slid right in with minimal effort. I didnít even need the special dodge/Jeep adapter cups.
Yay, a win!
Knuckles in place, now I can move on. Seems like Iíve been stuck here for weeks . Gettin old.
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Old 09-27-2019, 07:27 PM   #140
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Small victories.
Knuckles teamed for 1-ton TREs.
Knuckles in with castle nuts torqued.
Bumpstops In.
Springs In.
Trackbar In.
Broke axle side trackbar bolt trying to get 75 ft lbs
Found a suitable replacement. Torqued less.
Steering in.
Frame side track bar bolt in place.
Nuts are only hand tight while getting everything lined up.
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Old 10-01-2019, 09:08 PM   #141
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Scored a set of the wheels I actually wanted today for a hundred bucks. American racing outlaw II 15x8/4Ēbs.
Set I had was only 7Ēw and I think a knock off brand.
Came with bald 33x9.5 rollers.
Ainít the prettiest, lots of scarring around the lug nuts, but that donít matter to me. They keep the style and allow for 12.5 wide tires and for only a hundred bucks. And Iím sure I can sell my old ones for the same.
Iíll put those Alcoaís back online.
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Old Yesterday, 01:21 PM   #142
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Front Brake Hub/Rotor combo - help, which looks more correct?
Option 1: 3Ē deep rotors. More clearance between rotor and dust shield/knuckle. But caliper slide pins are pushed almost all the way back to install. Will this limit overall travel when installed?

Option 2: 3.25Ē Deep rotors.
Less clearance between rotor and dust shield/knuckle, in fact rotor scapes dust shield. But caliper slide pins are centered.

99 year saw the hubs and rotors change measurements. I have the hubs with the taller center hat like this
Not this style
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Old Yesterday, 08:54 PM   #143
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I vote option one.
The caliper will move toward the center of the axle and away from the wheel as the outer brake pad wears. Option 1 gives the best amount of inboard movement. The piston will extend further as the inner pad wears.
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Old Today, 07:40 AM   #144
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gluckmysock View Post
I vote option one.
The caliper will move toward the center of the axle and away from the wheel as the outer brake pad wears. Option 1 gives the best amount of inboard movement. The piston will extend further as the inner pad wears.


I can like that answer
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Old Today, 03:45 PM   #145
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I settled on the new rotors, looked back at the hub/rotor 99 yr change, and the rotors I have are a match for the hubs I have, so Iím rollin with it.

Soooo freakin close to driving this thing today. Down to bleeding brake lines and I see a puddle forming under the engine bay. Found a steel line squirtin, right past the prop valve. Looks like itís a section thatís already been replaced once.
Sure as hell wish I knew this a couple months ago when I still had the engine bay all torn apart. Grr.


Once I get that line replaced and put some oil in the diffs, bleed brakes again, Iíll be ready to slap some wheels back on it and drive around the block.

Still need to replace a front driveshaft u-joint and put that shaft back on.

Once itís on the ground I can start looking at pinion and caster angles, track bar and axle centering, and all that fun stuff.
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Jack - 99 XJ AX15 chili pepper red
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FLEX YOUR HEAD!!
Toothless - 02 WJ
Sally - 79 Wagoneer
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