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cherokee sport
chili pepper red
simple 4.0L 2wd auto tranny,4door
wife bought jeep before we were married or we deffinatly would have gotton a different cherokee or a rubicon.but i still like the 2wd girl.i might add arb locking diff on rear and maybe some disc on rear.the 4.0 my favorite oem motor i have had out of all my vehicles since i was 16.beatyfull simplicity.189,000 rear main seal,alternator,power steering pump,K&N cold air intake with amsoil EAaU3051 filter,platnium diehard AGM battery(highly highly reccomend this goes on sale once every 6 months.its actually made by odyssey.very very high quality).did big 3 with alternator,ground,and power wires.i use 1/0 gauge power and grounds to alternator and ARC amplifiers. and 2/0 starter single din hideaway head unit with 7 inch screen that slides in to radio when not in use.has gps,backup camera,ipod connection,hands free bluetooth for phone calls.full 3 layer sound deadening inside cabin.front component speakers are jl audio c5-653 3 way separate components with Q-logic kick panels that house the tweeters,and 4"mids.then 6.5 inch mid/woofers in factory door locations.extra set of tweeters in sail area of door right inside where mirror is(that little triangle spot)front components run by ARC KS 300.2 amp(amp has stinger hybrid 5 farad capacitor hooked to it to take the watt bursts when i play AC/DC back in one jl audio 12w6v2 subwoofer in sealed box.pushing that is a ARC KS 1000.1 and attached to that is a stinger 10 farad hybrid capacitor.all wire powering capacitors and amps is 1/0 100% oxygen free pure copper.speaker wire is also OFC but 10/0.main 1/0 power wire fused by 150 amp stinger fuse before running into cabin(always fuse main power wire and each power wire going to each amp even if the amp has fuses,better safe than sorry)and i ground amps directly to battery not to frame alone.i added 4 or 5 extra grounds from alternator and battery to engine block and actually improved starting,charging,and idling actually smoothed out more.the electrical system doesn't have to work even close to as hard as it used to because the pure copper wire and the size of them the power transfer to battery from alternator then from battery to coil,to distributor to,wires to plug is like going from a trail to a 8 lane supper hwy.the stereo system upgrade seriously upgraded the electrical system of the entire wifes honda pilot dosent have amps and subwoofers ect but i did big 3 upgrade on hers just to make the electrical system much much much better.i can tell on headlights,initial starting,idle,throttle would be amazed at what heavy guage pure copper 100% oxegen free wiring does.i have no idea why manufactures dont do this to start with.$ im sure but i wouldnt think twice if they offered it as an option.also extends the life of battery and alternator by some reports up to 200% because the watts,amps,and volts flow like water,no restrictions.also burns off carbon of plugs much more effectivly,and if you use or buy iridium plugs boy do you want that(i only use copper champion plugs in jeep 4.0L.never seen a certain plug work so much better than any other.i tried 6 different plug manufacturers before going wifes honda i can use NGK(still use NGK oem),bosh,ect runs same not withthe 4.0L on champ copper cheap plugs works 100% best)..last but not least after all these years finally found what oil works best for the 4.0L tractor motor we all love(it was a tractor motor before modified to be used in jeeps)jeep 4.0L have flat tappet cams.SHELL rotella 10w30 for first 5,000 miles when switching to the rotella,then amsoil engine flush and go to rottela T6 and wow,wow,wow,wow,wow what a difference in smoothness,and will notice the difference.the shell oil has a lot of ZINC which is what flat tappets HAVE to will have to replace catalytic convertor about a year sooner than normal,but worth it 5-6 yeARS instead of 7 years is worth the protection.amsoil zrod also good package.lots of zinc and phosprus and good additives.but its $11 a $4.
1998 Jeep cherokee sport (chili pepper red)


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