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Discussion Starter #1
Well getting a small collection of oil under the pan. Rear main seal I am guessing ? How hard is it to replace. I know my mustang its a bitch. Pull motor , drop trans , pull the bellhousing. Tell me I can just drop the pan PLLLLLEASE.
 

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It isn't exceptionally hard. We just did it in my buddies jeep not too long ago and we got it done in a day. With cherokees, you dont have to drop the tranny to replace the seal. The gasket can be inserted in without pulling it apart.
 

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I've never done it either, but I have read about it since mine leaks a little. Check to make sure it isn't leaking from the 3 seals from where the oil filter mounts. I have read of people changing the rear main seal only to find out it was those 3(?) "O" rings.

I think I'm going to try changing the oil filter mount seals first, clean the area real good and see if I still have a slow leak.

I have read it is very easy to change.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So basically just drop the pan and figure how to R+R. If so thats easy. Is there clearance to remove the pan ?
 

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So basically just drop the pan and figure how to R+R. If so thats easy. Is there clearance to remove the pan ?
Yes. That's basically why it is a PITA. You have to drop the front end to make room. When I did it, the jeep was a stocker so we had to disconnect the lower control arms to get the axle to drop far enough. Then we had to disconnect the steering linkages so we could drop the pan.
 

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Not sure, I have never done it, but I would think so. I would assume that you still need to disconnect the steering linkages though because they are pretty close to the oil pan.
 

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Not sure, I have never done it, but I would think so. I would assume that you still need to disconnect the steering linkages though because they are pretty close to the oil pan.
Thats true, thanks for the input.
 

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Clean your engine bay and properly identify the leak before you start tearing things to bits. There are three possible leaks that can present as a RMS - and two of them are much easier to repair:

Valve Cover Gasket - this often leaks at the rearward end of the head, and drips down the block.

Oil Filter "Elbow" Adapter - this one runs along the side of the block and down the back. Three O-rings here. Later models can be difficult because you'll need a shorty angled T-60(?) to turn that screw - it usually get fabricated by cutting a T-60 bit out of a socket and welding it to an cheap combi-wrench.

Rear Main Seal - yes, you can slip the pan out fairly easily on a 3" lift. If you're running stock, jack the front up and let the axle droop fully - if that doesn't do it, you can also unbolt the front track bar to get a little extra. I've also heard of people putting a bottle jack between the axle housing and the frame rail to force it down an extra inch or so to get the room needed to clear the pickup (I've not had to do it myself.)

Also note the colour of the fluid - it it's thin and red or thicker than normal engine oil (and smells of sulphur,) it could be a transmission leak - input shaft seal (manual/auto) or front pump O-ring (auto). If it looks like "oil" and not ATF, and you can't find the leak from the valve cover gasket or the oil filter adapter, pull the sheetmetal inspection plate from the bottom front of the bellhousing and check the engine side of the flexplate/flywheel for radial streaks of oil - that's a fairly reliable indicator of an RMS failure.
 

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Never done a valve cover gasket before but by looking at it, is it as easy as it seems it would be?
It's super easy. Just pull off about 10 bolts and remove the valve cover, take off the old gasket and put the new one on. 1 hour tops.
 

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Never done a valve cover gasket before but by looking at it, is it as easy as it seems it would be?
It is, but it can be a pain to seal. Here's how I've done it.

Go get the valve cover gasket (I happen to prefer cork, but I'm used to it) and a tube of LocTite #518 Gasket Eliminator (yes, it can be used with a gasket as well.) Also pick up a packet of SBChevvy valve cover studs for use with "cast" covers, or go to the hardware store and get four 1/4"-20 x 1-1/2" studs and 1/4"-20 nuts.

Remove the valve cover and clean thoroughly. This is a good time to clean out the baffles under the emissions grommets in the cover, as well as checking to see if any sludge is building up in your engine oil (it will usually show up on top of the rocker pivots or in the spring coils if it is.)

Make sure the valve cover rail on the cylinder head is good and clean - as a final step, hit it with a Scotch-Brite pad and a bit of carburettor cleaner, acetone, or even denatured alcohol.

Install four studs finger tight - one at each end of a "long side". You should have described a rectangle with the studs. Threadlocker isn't necessary, but if you decide to use the stuff, go weak (LocTite #222 is good. #242 is a bit strong for what you want, you don't need much hold here.

Clean the valve cover sealing edge - Scotch-Brite et al is good here as well, once you get all of the crud out of it.

Take your gasket, and coat both sides of it with a light coat of #518. Lay it in place, lay the valve cover overtop of the studs (that's what they're there for) and install the screws finger tight.

Go have a sandwich. You want to allow about a half-hour for the silicone to begin setting up.

Come back, and torque screws to spec! There's a definite torque spec for those screws, as valve cover gaskets are painfully easy to crush beyond utility. I don't recall it offhand, but you should find the spec for your year (or something very close to it) on my website in the Tech Archives. These specs are from FSMs, which is why I don't have all years up.

Yet.

Change your engine oil & filter. This will allow you to flush any crud out that fell into the sump down the side of the head.

If possible, allow the rig to sit for a minimum of eight hours (overnight is better) before you light it off so the stuff can really set up.

Having done quite a few valve cover gaskets, manifold gaskets, and cylinder head gaskets on various inline sixes (AMC, Ford Falcon, Ford Cleveland, Chevvy Stovebolt, Chrysler Slant Six...) I've found that these long gaskets do take some extra precaution to seal properly - simply because they are long! Even the Audi inline five gaskets can be goofy to get sealed.

Yes, you can use RTV in place of the Gasket Eliminator (I prefer black for general use like this - don't bother with that blue crap,) but I find that #518 works best.

The studs are there to keep the valve cover in place once you set it down. I find the use of studs in various places to be useful - the top hole on both of my axle covers have a 5/16" stud in them, there are four studs on my oil sump, four on my valve cover, I had three on the sump for my AW4-equipped rigs, ... It saves a lot of wrestling and swearing having them there.
 

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Well getting a small collection of oil under the pan. Rear main seal I am guessing ? How hard is it to replace. I know my mustang its a bitch. Pull motor , drop trans , pull the bellhousing. Tell me I can just drop the pan PLLLLLEASE.
trooper you think its the rear main? or the pangasket?
my mustang was easy. i keep blowing up t5's so when i pulled the trans i removed the flywheel pulled the old seal and put the new one in in 20 mins. the jeep will require the same deal. its probably a one peice o ring but some makes have a 2 peice shaped like 2 "c" s the early 5.0s were that way till like 83.i would start with the pan gasket im sure its leaking.it may be possible to undo the motor mounts and lift the motor up enough to remove the pan without removing the motor. but the rear main youre going to have to r&r the trans, remove clutch and fly wheel or flex plate if its a auto.no way around that.i was under mine yester day its pretty nasty:) so dont feel bad and all my diffs and trans might be leaking too:( so i feel your pain. which motor do you have?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
What motor ? You talking 5.0 or 4.0. I am well aware of dropping the trans and bell on a 5 liter. How the hell did you drop a T-5 in 20 minutes ???? Maybe after the exhaust, crossmember, driveshaft , and shifter removed lol. Oh yah , speedo cable. Anyways....Pretty sure its the rear main on the XJ. There is a small line of oil coming from the backing plate which I call. it would be cheaper to replace some O-rings first.

P.S. Stop slammin 3rd on your T-5.
Mine likes to eat throughout bearings and I dont shift with much clutch at all. Figure that one out. Later Chris
 

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What motor ? You talking 5.0 or 4.0. I am well aware of dropping the trans and bell on a 5 liter. How the hell did you drop a T-5 in 20 minutes ???? Maybe after the exhaust, crossmember, driveshaft , and shifter removed lol. Oh yah , speedo cable. Anyways....Pretty sure its the rear main on the XJ. There is a small line of oil coming from the backing plate which I call. it would be cheaper to replace some O-rings first.

P.S. Stop slammin 3rd on your T-5.
Mine likes to eat throughout bearings and I dont shift with much clutch at all. Figure that one out. Later Chris
oh no 20 mins to remove and replace the seal, counting clutch and flywheel removal. i can drop a t5 in a hour now that ive done it so many times, helps when u have a offroad h pipe too. they come out quicker than a stock heavy azz catted h pipe.
i have no idea how u would change a rearmain with the trans still attached?on any motor
 

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The oil pan is a pain to get off. You will have to support the Jeep on jackstands placed behind the front wheels on the frame. You will have to let the front susepnsion hang to full droop. Even with a lift, you will need to unhook the track bar and lower shock mounts, remove the brake calipers and wire them up out of the way, and possibly remove the steering linkage. I was able to get away with not removing the steering. Break the seal on the pan and you can get inside and remove the 2 bolts holding on the oil pump pick up tube. This makes it much easier to slide the pan out. Clean all gasket surfaces spotless. I strongly recommend using the new 1 piece ribbed rubber gasket available for the oil pan, with the inset steel rings around the bolt holes. I've done my oil pan gasket twice in 4 years and I spent the extra money, the second time, for one of these gaskets and it's been good for over a year now with just periodic re-torquing of the bolts. Once you get the pan off. Remove the rear most main cap. Inside here is where your rear seal is. Use a brass punch and gently tap the upper piece out of the block. the lower piece is in the cap. I cannot stress enough that you do need to periodically re-torque your oil pan and valve cover gasket bolts. The torque for them is rediculous at only 85 inch pounds but, if you over torque you will crack the aluminum valve cover or dimple the pan and make worse leaks. So just retorque frequently and you'll be good.
 

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What motor ? You talking 5.0 or 4.0. I am well aware of dropping the trans and bell on a 5 liter. How the hell did you drop a T-5 in 20 minutes ???? Maybe after the exhaust, crossmember, driveshaft , and shifter removed lol. Oh yah , speedo cable. Anyways....Pretty sure its the rear main on the XJ. There is a small line of oil coming from the backing plate which I call. it would be cheaper to replace some O-rings first.

P.S. Stop slammin 3rd on your T-5.
Mine likes to eat throughout bearings and I dont shift with much clutch at all. Figure that one out. Later Chris
im nice to my t5 i dont know what u mean,lol look closely at the input gear


 

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That's a nice first gear ya got there... What the hell is happening there?
 
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