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I have the above aforementioned vehicle. It had been going through CPS sensors like they are gas. So frustrated me pull into parts store to buy a new CPS ,meanwhile i was putting the original pigtail back on it because prior to me someone had put a different pigtail to the CPA on it and i crossed wires and sidnt hear anything pop or the wires arc. I go to start it and nothing. I havr the check engine light on,the sentry key emblem light on on the dash, and NO BUS on odometer LCD. I tried pulling codes and my tool tells me there is a link failure. I have vtage on the car bus at the DLC but wont read any codes. Before this happened. I was pulling codes like p0123 p0122 p0121 and another that said failure in companion module. Like p1698 i believe. I even ran the test with hoksing both buttons down on my overhead console and all that comes up is "ccd". IS MY PCM FRIED OR WHAT PLEASE HELP ME?!?!
 

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There should be a fuse somewhere you blew. Check the power distribution center. There is a fuse and relay that powers the engine control module. Make sure that works. Check for voltage to the CPS and this time replace it with genuine mopar. They are the only ones that last
 

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There should be a fuse somewhere you blew. Check the power distribution center. There is a fuse and relay that powers the engine control module. Make sure that works. Check for voltage to the CPS and this time replace it with genuine mopar. They are the only ones that last
Thanks. Ive been all over the PDC checking relays and fuses but i will go back and check circuitry and fuses as well as inside the passenger side kicker panel. I have my 5 volt supply at my CPS ,MAP, IAC, CKS, injectors AND my camshaft position. On the harness side. But nothing to my coil pack. Its strange to say the very least. If you can think of anything else please let me know. I don't have a vehicle to make it back and forth to work to make the 200 for a new PCM so I'm so frustrated its unbelieveable. Not to mention i dont know why the SKIM is giving me shit. I just put brand new aluminum wheels and tires on it toooooo!!!!! Ah! I will get back with you. Thank you.
 

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There should be a fuse somewhere you blew. Check the power distribution center. There is a fuse and relay that powers the engine control module. Make sure that works. Check for voltage to the CPS and this time replace it with genuine mopar. They are the only ones that last
Hey boss man, i have been all over both of my fuse junctions, no fuses blown and no relays bad, tested with ohm resistance and 12 volt supply to the relays. All good. I realized i was saying CPS, I meant to be saying TPS throttle position sensor. The throttle position sensor went bad twice and the day this happened i pulled another tps code and it was sputtering. Like i said i was pissed off and tired of them going down and didn't take the battery terminals off to swap out the tps. The pigtail to the tps had been swapped before and was bare and while i was messing with it i crossed over the 5 volt supply to the tps. I didnt hear a click or pop or see anything arc but since then it hasnt ran. I tested the tps with my multimeter and it is working fine meaning the voltage increases as i open it up farther. I have 5 volt at every sensor on the harness. I have 8 volts at the 5 volt pcm supply both primary and secondary. But nothing at all coming out of the PCM/ECM. I'm getting no spark no fuel, I'm getting no connection to the PCM at the DLC but i am getting voltage there. As well as the skim showing the key symbol on the instrument panel while using the right programmed key, basically i have a junk PCM/ECM, I would be safe to say that wouldn't you say? I have nobody else to talk to about it. Everybody just wants to be pricks and say "oh well you should've been paying more attention" lol like i don't know that. I'm just so frustrated with it.
 

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You may have fried it. Also wiggle the plug on the back of the instrument module. A bad connection can result in a nobuss. However that would be quite a coincidence if that was the case there
 

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I'm thinking its fried as well. But that's also something that's going on is no gauges except for tach and speedo. But it will go through self diagnostics test just fine. The jeep was wrecked and has a salvaged title. I got to looking and the TCM is a 634AF, the PDC is a 739AF and the wiring harness is a 498AC and the motor mounts have been wrote on with a white paint marker. So this thing has been into a lot more than i knew of. But i appreciate you talkin back and forth with me buddy, It gives a little relief with this nightmare.
 

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I know this is a 2000, but I had a no start condition that I chased for days. No gauges and couldn't pull codes. My problem turned out to be the cam sensor under the distributor. I know you don't have a distributor, but you still have a cam sensor, try unplugging it and see if you can pull the codes and your gauges work. that's what mine did, when I plugged it in, no gauges and no datalink (OBD II Connector), unplug the sensor and they worked. These things go crazy with grounds and you may not have fried the ECM, but some other sensor. It won't cost you anything to try. Good Luck.
 

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I know this is a 2000, but I had a no start condition that I chased for days. No gauges and couldn't pull codes. My problem turned out to be the cam sensor under the distributor. I know you don't have a distributor, but you still have a cam sensor, try unplugging it and see if you can pull the codes and your gauges work. that's what mine did, when I plugged it in, no gauges and no datalink (OBD II Connector), unplug the sensor and they worked. These things go crazy with grounds and you may not have fried the ECM, but some other sensor. It won't cost you anything to try. Good Luck.
Yeah I've heard about these grounds if they aren't perfect they won't work. But you're right the cam sensor is inside the little grey headed distributor wanna be lol i took the cover off and there was a little bit of material laying in there like the cup in there somehow wiggled around and shaved off the cam sensors magnet. That was a few days ago. I'll give it a shot and let ya know how it goes. Thanks
 

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I know this is a 2000, but I had a no start condition that I chased for days. No gauges and couldn't pull codes. My problem turned out to be the cam sensor under the distributor. I know you don't have a distributor, but you still have a cam sensor, try unplugging it and see if you can pull the codes and your gauges work. that's what mine did, when I plugged it in, no gauges and no datalink (OBD II Connector), unplug the sensor and they worked. These things go crazy with grounds and you may not have fried the ECM, but some other sensor. It won't cost you anything to try. Good Luck.
Well. I just finished up. With the PCM plugged up,it won't pull any codes at all. With it unplugged and laying in my lap, I get p0122 and p01694. The same codes i was getting before this happened. Low input voltage on TPS and fault in companion module is what they are i believe. That being said , with the Trans Cont Mod unplugged it wouldn't read, with the Cam Pos Sensor unplugged it wouldn't read, as well as the rest of the 5 volt sensors. Crank pos, IAC, MAP. So finally, some closure on this bullllll. Im gonna shoot this thing all to hell once i get a line on another if they don't want a core.
 

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There should be a fuse somewhere you blew. Check the power distribution center. There is a fuse and relay that powers the engine control module. Make sure that works. Check for voltage to the CPS and this time replace it with genuine mopar. They are the only ones that last
hcore.hey
You may have fried it. Also wiggle the plug on the back of the instrument module. A bad connection can result in a nobuss. However that would be quite a coincidence if that was the case there
With the PCM laying in my lap, all my 5 volt sensors plugged up, I finally got the codes back. P0122 and p1694. With the PCM plugged up and on the harness my scanner won't read and gives me "link error". I just never tried this because i thought the codes came from the PCM but apparently i was wrong.
 

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Not sure what to say now except to check the wiring between the OBDii plug and ECM.
 

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I thought they came from the pcm also. Hmmm.
The other guy helping me replying to this says the same thing. To check wiring in between DLC/OBD2 port and PCM. So we are right they do come from the PCM i just don't understand how I'm getting them with the pcm in my lap and with it plugged up not getting anything.... This is getting weird... But like always when i start to work on it it starts raining a monsoon. Every. Time.. So when and if it stops tomorrow im going back to it. This thing won't win. I'll update tomorrow.
 

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Not sure what to say now except to check the wiring between the OBDii plug and ECM.
The pigtail on the grey c3 plug had been prviously cut and removed for a new one to be spliced onto the harness and i made every connection perfect with silver solder snd every other connection. Still having thr same issue. A jeep dodge Chrysler tech informed me that when i touched those wires together the skim module locked the pcm out since the skis is an anti theft system and the jumpering made it think someone was trying to break into it i think. So im gonna let the dealership flash my PCM and maybe de skim it if they can. Thanks for helping me
 

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Hope that works out for you
 

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Hope that works out for you
Thanks bud. Since I'm putting in this new PCM ,
Hope that works out for you

Does it mean that instrument panel is bad when not all gauge such as oil pressure"alternator voltage output fuel tank an water temp,both 2 on each side dont work when you run the self diagnostic diagram. Shows that each and every bulb will light up to show they are in working order I done it and none of the 4 on the sides I mentioned work.only the TACH ans speedometer
 
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