Jeep Cherokee Talk banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
HI , wondering what the best kit is to repair a knocking transfer case shift linkage??? 2000 Cherokee Sport 4wd.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,739 Posts
First, welcome to cherokeetalk! Well, two questions: what exactly is transfer case linkage knocking? And what do you mean by kit? Do you mean it's not staying put?

It's a 2000 XJ, but are you lifted, stock? What transfercase do you have?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
First, welcome to cherokeetalk! Well, two questions: what exactly is transfer case linkage knocking? And what do you mean by kit? Do you mean it's not staying put?

It's a 2000 XJ, but are you lifted, stock? What transfercase do you have?
It is stock, no lift. From what I have read the knock or rattle under the hump is a worn transfer case shift linkage bushing. So, I am looking for a kit before the rattle comes to it not staying put..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,739 Posts
Thanks for the info. If you feel like upgrading, there are a couple aftermarket shifting linkages available. Azzys is the big one. I asked about stock vs lifted because sometimes a lifted jeep doesnt like to shift well.

If you are just looking for a bushing, I'd try Napa or Oreillys. Sorry I'm not familiar with a specific bushing kit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
We do have a napa. auto zone, advanced etc. I saw a single bushing on one and a kit by crown automotive on another. Trying to see what is best and there are always alternatives but I could not find any threads.
I will look at that azzys linkage, not sure what looks like yet but I got 20 years on this one so I will stay stock i guess.?? Thanks, Jeff
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,073 Posts
Just an FYI, the factory setup connects to both the body and T-case. These jeeps are unit- body construction. Which means the body twist a little when going over bumps and holes. And the engine, transmission/T-case (powertrain) rotate under normal operation. If you have ever had the hood open when someone revs up an engine, you can literally see the engine move. Because the linkage is connected to the body and the power train, it can easily bind up and not want to engage or disengage. The Azzys setup moves all the connections over onto the power train and eliminates the chance of binding. I've been using his set up for years and I am very pleased.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Just an FYI, the factory setup connects to both the body and T-case. These jeeps are unit- body construction. Which means the body twist a little when going over bumps and holes. And the engine, transmission/T-case (powertrain) rotate under normal operation. If you have ever had the hood open when someone revs up an engine, you can literally see the engine move. Because the linkage is connected to the body and the power train, it can easily bind up and not want to engage or disengage. The Azzys setup moves all the connections over onto the power train and eliminates the chance of binding. I've been using his set up for years and I am very pleased.
Well I have a few choices anyway.. What you talked about would explain why it comes and goes. Certain angles in the road must be trigering that frame / body situation causing the rattle.. Thanks..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,095 Posts
If you’re going to mess with fixing the t-case linkage at all, I’d highly recommend the Azzy’s or Boostwerks linkage. A very simple system that is a great upgrade for not much money or effort. I installed the Boostwerks.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,073 Posts

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,073 Posts
No. Everything is tight and secure. Haven't thought about it though. And since it still works, I guess I'm good.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top