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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi fellas,

So I recently bought a 2001 Jeep Cherokee xj and am planning to change the differential fluid. I’m pretty sure it’s a Chrysler 8.25 but can’t tell? Am I right?

Anyways, the differential cover is rusted to hell and was going to replace it. Should I expect any curve balls replacing the cover since the existing one is in such bad shape? Also, what cover would you recommend?

I’m knowledgeable about engine mechanics but am struggling to understand the suspension/brakes/axel stuff ie. Ball joints, u joints etc.

There is a obvious really bad wear and oxidization/rust on the brakes and axel components.

How do I go about this/plan of attack?

My plan is to eventually run the beefiest and thickest tires possible that I can get away with on the Jeep (everyday driver) with the existing Chrysler 8.25 with a 2” or 3” lift but want to make sure I fix/replace whatever is needed before doing so.

I’m going to be changing the differential fluids with:

Front: Redline 75-90 + RL limited slip friction modifier

Rear differential: redline 75-140 + RL limited slip friction modifier

From what I understand the newer 8.25 (97-01) has a 29 spline and 3” axel tube with a 1.21 diameter and is close to the Dana 44..

What do you guys think? What should I do in chronological order before I lift and put bigger tires on?

Rear:
Wheel Tire Helmet Vehicle Plant


Tire Wheel Automotive tire Tread Wood

Wheel Tire Automotive tire Tread Wood


Front:
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tire Tread Wood

Automotive tire Tread Motor vehicle Wood Wheel

Tire Wheel Automotive tire Synthetic rubber Tread



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Your rear axle is a dana 35, it's smaller and weaker than a Chrysler 8.25. The C8.25 is flat on the bottom. The front is a Dana 30. All XJ's have a Dana 30. 75-90 in the front is fine don't add the friction modifier. It's only added when you have a limited slip differential. 75-140 is fine in the rear. factory is 85-90, but if you tow, or lift it. run 90-140. The rear diff cover isn't that bad. a wire brush will clean it up nice. the ID tag is between the 2 bolts on the left side. forget trying to read it. it's a thin piece of metal embossed with the diff model and gear ratio.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Your rear axle is a dana 35, it's smaller and weaker than a Chrysler 8.25. The C8.25 is flat on the bottom. The front is a Dana 30. All XJ's have a Dana 30. 75-90 in the front is fine don't add the friction modifier. It's only added when you have a limited slip differential. 75-140 is fine in the rear. factory is 85-90, but if you tow, or lift it. run 90-140. The rear diff cover isn't that bad. a wire brush will clean it up nice. the ID tag is between the 2 bolts on the left side. forget trying to read it. it's a thin piece of metal embossed with the diff model and gear ratio.
I thought all xj’s 96 and newer had the 8.25?


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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If I bought a Chrysler 8.25 would it be a direct swap or will it need fabrication? If it needs any dabs to fit a mine as well buy a Dana 44 if it cost around the same to swap. I will need a shop to do the swap. Any idea what the labor may cost?

I eventually want my Jeep on a 3” lift with either 32 or 33 wheels. I’d do the Ford 8.8 but from what I read it takes a bit of fabrication to make it fit which I’m sure adds to the cost of labor to swap.

For the Dana 44 4.56 to be a direct would it have to come from a 87-91 xj or Comanche?


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