Looking at Haynes repair manual it doesn't have a procedure for freeze plug removal. Chilton does but not very detailed. Seems they both have tranny removal and install. I guess that's about all i can get?
Have you searched for a FSM? You can usually find a hard copy or digital copy on ebay. The digitals are typically pretty cheap. The contents are much more complete than other 2nd hand manuals. I'll attach a picture so you can see the difference.
I replaced freeze plug. Was the one that we suspected. So now im to the point of bolting the four flex plate to torque converter bolts . From the removal instructions, it was said to mark the flex plate and torque converter positions So that it may be put back same way. I marked it but dont see it now for some reason. I did align the plate holes with converter holes by turning crank shaft. I hand tightened all four bolts. Before i torque them, will this be ok or does it have to go back same exact way as it was when taken apart?
t worry about it. The time that is critical is if you have an engine balanced including the torque converter. The torque converter and flex plate are balanced at the factory separately. Maybe not necessarily down to a gnats eyebrow (gnats don't have them), but well enough. Tighten them up and happy motoring
Now the cross member holes not aligning with frame. I'm aligning middle of member with tranny mounting 4 bolts 4 middle holes on member. But frame and member holes not aligning. Well one side does but the other will be off a bit behind the frame holes. Any ideas, trick of the trades, suggestions? I'm putting member just the same as when it came off. Maybe lift tranny up some more, lift engine some more. Tranny is high enough the 4×4 and other linkages are even and hooked up. Don't want to break something. Thanks
Got it! Hung one side with bolt halfway in, then went to other side and used 2×4 to push and align while hand tightening bolts in. It jst cooperated better today than yesterday i guess.
Now a new obstacle. The tranny oil pan plug is not going in smoothly like a should. Bolt plug looked a little bieat up so even bought new one. Still dame thing. Looking at hole threads looks like the bottom part thread is a bit worn. I did thread it in ever so gently and got bolt in almost to where head is up against bottom of pan but not quite. Washers? tap it? maybe pour oil in since maybe already sealed? If tap in it, what tap size. Almost there this is so frustrating. Thanks all.
Plug It's a M10-1.50 and the head is 14mm. I went ahead and slapped a washer and threw thread sealant see how it does. Tightened and now of course washer is up against the pan closing the slight gap from before. I tightened pretty good but not soo much to snap bolt off. I wonder though if enough. Looking for torque specs for plug?
Alright , refilled tranny oil, fired it up and no leaks; water nor oil. Now, new issue. Temp gauge did not go up at all while test driving. Suddenly it shot all the way to red then all the way back down again right away. Did same couple of times then i just parked it. Not sure if it's overheating since gauge sporadic like that. Ideas, suggestions, comments. Thanks
Not sure if relevant but before deciding to replace freeze plug, i tried some leak sealant. I noticed temperature went higher. So i drained radiator before beginning plug installation to get rid of that crap which maybe plugged the rad. I refilled with fresh water to do cooling pressure test and left it like that. Might there be air in system?
Don't leave plain tap water in your cooling system. It will rust the steel components pretty quick. But it sounds like you have air in the system. If the temp sensor is in an air pocket it well give a false reading, then when it suddenly gets submerged in coolant the temp well spike. Air does not transfer heat as efficiently as water (coolant)
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