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Discussion Starter #1
We used to live near a great U-Pull & Pay in Colorado Springs; we recently moved to Palm Bay, FL, and i don't know of any such facility near us.

My daughter's 1998 Grand Cherokee has a constant ABS light on. When this happened with my 2001 Isuzu Rodeo, i simply got an abs ecm off another at U-Pull & Pay for about $50 and problem solved.

Can anyone suggest an economical means for me to get one for the '98 Grand Cherokee? The prices i saw on eBay, ranging up to over $1,000 are idiotic!!!

Thank-you!!!
 

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I have a 98 ZJ out back for a parts rig. It has it I think
 

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Heck, if the module is compatible please advise (PM if proper) what you would like including shipping; i understand no guarantees-
 

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It is more likely that the wheel speed sensors that are located in the knuckle of your front steering and rear e-brake assembly; are going or gone bad. These sensors have about a ten to fifteen year life. I'd start there.

It could be the ABS control module, but be prepared to chase this one to the wheels.

Also as a fun side note, the engineers of this braking system made sure you had to go to the stealership to have the ABS serviced. You can not get the best brakes on these with out the Chrysler PCM interface device. As I was told by a tech back in 2007, one can not fully purge/bleed the ABS system of air pockets with out using one of these interface devices. You can still do a good job, but the pedal will never be perfect without one.

https://www.ebay.com/p/CHRYSLER-DRB...B3-DRBIII/19018464494?iid=142787821602&chn=ps

^^It looked like this if I recall correctly. ^^

There are substitutes out there for laptops, but I dare not look too far into it, for I do not wish to be in debt to my creditors for even more than I am currently: https://www.aetools.us/products/drb-iii-emulator/
 

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Here are the electricals:
 

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I found this from a Facebook posting while digging around the interwebs for that hotness... :thumbsup:

Vehicle Programing Services
March 15, 2015 ·

HOW TO BUY AND UPDATE A DRB 3 (DRB III)

So upon picking up a a beautiful, all be it used, DRB 3 scan tool, it became obvious to me that the previous owner of this great unit was willfully ignorant about how "updated" this unit was. Fact is, very few people truly understand what important things you need to look for when buying a used DRB 3 tool, and what this tool is capable of. I have been blessed to know one of the original software writers for DRB 3 and after spending a semester working with this guy on my job, I didnt know weather to hug the guy for all the knowledge he gave me, or punch him in the face for designing a tool that would be far more comfortable in the hands of an engineer as opposed to a technician. Some 15 years later, I now know a major number of "back doors" and programming features that exist in the "nooks and crannies" of this tool.

I need to express some VERY important facts as they apply to DRB 3, and today is YOUR DAY to learn them! If you have no aspirations to become a pro with your DRB 3, just keep on flipping through the other stuff out here. If your looking to buy one of these very powerful tools, read on!

First, cables are to be considered "consumable products" and as such, the condition of cables on these units is really irrelevant. They are easily replaceable and fairly inexpensive. There are, literally HUNDREDS of cable sand attachments a DRB 3 could use, depending on whether it has a PEP module (the diagnostic unit) strapped to it, or a dummy module. Keep in mind that DRB 3 REQUIRES THE PRESENTS OF EITHER A PEP MODULE OR A DUMMY MODULE TO DO ANYTHING! If someone is trying to sell you one without this, it will be impossible for your to test this unit and it will not function without one of the other. These units are NOT CHEAP! A used PEP module can cost upward of $400 bucks so keep this in mind! Make sure you inspect the connector on the unit that the DLC cable connects to. I often see the outer perimeter of this plug rusted and rotten from lack of use and sitting out in a damp garage. Replacing this plug is not a cheap endeavor and it will cause real connectivity problems for you if its compromised. The biggest danger is people who leave connectors in the cavity and than shove them into bags or cases or onto shelves and put upward or downward pressure on the plug end inside the head unit. This elongates the cavity and ruins the plug. For diagnostics, this is not such a big deal if you bump the plug a little and you lose connectivity with the car, but if you are programming with this unit and lose connectivity, your screwed! You can lose the controller. The condition of the plugs in the head unit are of paramount concern when buying one of these.

You must also look at the key pad. Unlike Tech 2, there are not redundant membrane keys to rotate to, so when you see telltales of high traffic keys (paint worn off, etc) you had better fire that thing up and make sure those keys work. Of course, on DRB III, Enter, Page forward and Page back and YES and NO are the most popular keys.

When you do get this thing fired up, you had better check the revision level on your tool. If its 2006 or older, you could have a real problem on your hands. If your DRB 3 tool has software that is 06 or older, you will likely need to send that unit into somewhere like C.A.S of New England and get the internal FIRMWARE updated so it can take newer updates. Yea, sure.....you can only update this tool to 08, BUT, try flash programming without the newest firmware! Good luck with that! Also, the years of 2007-08 are the most popular vehicles I work on. You need that update! Cost to update firmware can be expensive and cost hundreds of dollars because there are only 2 places who can do it. C.A.S and Miller Special Tools. Good luck getting in touch with Miller Special Tools! If you DO get one with 07 or newer firmware, the updates is simple! Just install the ITIL/ISIS disc into your PC, install the update program onto your PC (You need to use Windows XP folks, and you also need a RS232 port on your unit or a USB to RS232 and configure the COM PORT to access that adapter), use the NULL MODEM CABLE that is required to allow your DRB 3 to communicate with your PC (its not a regular serial port cable so dont even think about using a standard RS232 Serial Port cable) and hook it up to the PC and on your DRB 3 where it says RS-232 on the head unit. There is also a RS-232 plug on your PEP module, this will get you nowhere using your DRB 3 to update or program. Get your DRB 3 unit plugged into a powered DLC port or use an adapter to power the DRB 3 on your bench and when it fires up, hit the YES to get to the main menu, than hit the F5 function ("Run Memory Card Program"). Than go to your PC and open the DRB 3 updater and on the top box use the "DRB 3 update) function configured to COM1 and let the PC connect to your DRB 3. MAKE SURE YOU TURN OFF ALL SCREEN SAVERS, WINDOWS UPDATES, AND ANYTHING ELSE THAT CAN INTERRUPT THE UPDATE! If your updated is interrupted, your unit will become a door stop! Updating will take about 30 minutes so make sure you have a repayable power source and DO NOT TURN YOUR BACK ON YOUR UPDATE! One time my dog started chewing on the DLC cable powering my DRB and pulled the power cord out of the jump box I was using to power this thing up. The result was shipping it back to Miller Special Tools with a check for 500 bucks to get it fixed! Once its updated, your good to use all the functionality in this tool, PLUS TechTools on Tech Authority to update controllers.

Remember, A J2534 unit on a Chrysler only gives you access to updating ECM (PCM) and TCM. DRB 3 gives you full and unfettered access to EVERY module on that car and all the updates and programs to program them. TechTools is a fairly unfriendly program and you really need to know a lot of things to do updates via TechTools. One of those very difficult issues is how TechTools interacts with Windows 7 vs. Windows XP and earlier OS's. This is a subject for another tutorial, but just be aware of it.

Of course, you need to check the screen pixelation to make sure its all there and make physical inspections of the unit itself. I dont know how many of these things I have picked up and could hear pieces rattling around inside them. Make sure the cooling fan located on the left side is running and that the foam filter on it is not clogged. This is a direct indicator of maintenance and use on one of these units. If that filter is clogged with a half inch of funk, its likely that it was used very harshly and not cared for. Make sure you fire up the memory card program with a card in there to make sure it works properly. Finally, even if you dont have a Chrysler to hook up to, you had better plug into something and, at the very minimum, connect to the F3 function (Generic Scan Tool) and put it through its paces.

Keep in mind that most DRB3's came with an OBD 2 DLC cable numbered CH7000, but if you look at the end that connects into the DRB 3 is black, you need to secure a CH7000A cable that has the red end. The Black cable will not work with most cars any longer so toss that in your accessory box and get a red cable. You can get one of these for like 20 bucks on Ebay. I recommend buying a couple of them as they ALWAYS get beat to death.

Items you will need to use your DRB 3:

Functioning Head Unit
PEP module or Dummy unit
CH7000A Red Plug DLC Cable
Current On-board Programming (Release 64.01.10 for 2008)
Null Modem Cable CH7025 (the RS-232 looking cable)
ITIL/ISIS RED update disc for January 2008

Other items you may want to have to make the most out of your DRB 3:

Yellow "Supercard" that will allow you to access functions for early OBD II and OBD 1 functionality with DRB III. You will also need CH7015 and CH7020 cord to do OBD 1 functions with this cord.

Blue Seabring/Stratus card to access the "Mitsubishi era" Chrysler products. You will also need CH7010 Double headed cord and CH2007 cord for these cars as well.

Of course, with the update disc, you can also access old flash programing, as well as the ability to change the programing on your external memory cards to do work on Sprinter, Crossfire and other Mitsubishi, Benz and specialty model Chrysler.

CH7056 lighter plug power cord needed for updating your cards and head unit.

Access to TechAuthority on-line to use TechTools and get valuable application information. This can be purchased as daily, weekly, monthly, and yearly subscription.

There are literally dozens of other cords for specialty applications and plenty of stuff to use with the PEP module like thermocouples, belt tensioner tools, SKIM key testing tools, ABS break out boxes, transducers and DVOM functions as well as scope functions as well.

Finally, some of you know that a DRB 3 Emulator exists on WiTech software, or should I say.....USED TO EXIST! It is no longer available if your using a Witech POD, but does still work if you are accessing WiTech using a StarMobile. The Emulator will not do programming functions as well, its only for diagnostic and initialization features. Sure, StarMobile is slower but it has LOTS of advantages over the WiTech POD, but again, I digress!

Make sure you purge ALL old and unwanted flash update history from this unit with a cold boot. You can cold boot your unit by simply hitting the "MORE" and "YES" keys together and when prompted to, hit the "F4" key to cold boot the unit. This will clear out all the old "junk" that may be left in the short term memory. You would do this before doing ANY programming with DRB 3, but even if your not, its good to clear your DRB 3 out once and a while. Its kind of like a colon cleanse, it gets all the old sh*t out of there so its clean and clear.

Make sure you understand that DRB 3 has incredible functionality in the realm of diagnostics, bi-directional tools, programming and configuration functions. DO NOT allow yourself to be limited to using your DRB 3 as a simple code reader. Buy units from guys like that! Take that tool and increase your knowledge base and make yourself a monster with this tool! It can do amazing things that can make you untold thousands and save yourself hundreds of hours in diagnosing and configuring options. There are hundreds of shortcuts, hidden functions and goodies for the inquisitive technician to find and exploit. this is a VERY powerful tool, and in the right hands can behave like an unlimited cash register of earnings for you.

So you may not think so, but this is a BRIEF guide on DRB 3 purchasing and basic background. Please feel free to add anything I may have missed along the way.
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Gawd, what I would have done to have one of these a few years ago: Timing is Being Retarded by PCM at WOT?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
THANK-YOU!!! (Yep, i am shouting with appreciation!)

I very much appreciate the the pages, and though i am not about to buy a DRB III, i enjoyed reading the pitfalls and technicalities on the unit as a warning to myself if ever in the future i so much as tinker with the idea.
 

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I'd like to have one one day. It may be the day I file for bankruptcy, but...

I may just take a PCM to a hack shop and see what I can get to unleash the 4.slow.

Let us know what you wind up doing with this. I too have an ABS light, but it is not constant. If you look at the end of my build thread, I will be replacing my wheel sensors in a few weeks.

:photos:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
If anyone does have a compatible module, i rather need it soon - she drives the Jeep back up to Colorado in just a little over a week!
 

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Just to be sure, you can have the electronics and pump for $50. Let me know your zip and address so I can ship, probably by priority mail
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
First of all, GREAT appreciation to 4.3L XJ for getting me that module!

And the ABS Warning light is no more!!!

I did a quick lookup on YouTube for what i was about to do and the only one i saw was for a 2000 Grand Cherokee -
. Somewhere between 1998 and 2000 the company figured out that the way they have the ABS module sitting in the older models was stupid, aggravating, and STUPID. The 2000 has the electronic half facing the front of the vehicle - the modules (Pump and electronic, which are screwed together) are vertical and is easily handled. In the 1998 the modules are horizontal with the electronic half underneath the pump half. One "gets" to check out the tolerance of the metal tubes (though two do have a flexible portion) in trying to rotate the dang assembly in order to get at the four screws that hold the two halves together. Another "fun" thing Jeep did was use screw heads that are like standard torx bits, one needs a B5 socket to work with them. Fortunately i learned that in the video on the 2000 repair, ran out to Harbor Freight (every single auto store around here would have to special order them) and got a set for about $10.00. One last note on my semi-rant, the plastic connectors... The main cable one was easy to disconnect, as also seen in the video i keep referring to; the other one's clasps, like warned in the video, pretty much self-destructed with hardly any effort, they were very brittle. Just to note, though i didn't disconnect the battery, i did pull BOTH large fuses in the engine compartment block (behind the battery) before proceeding. When i did the same procedure on my Isuzu, though i think i disconnected the battery, the first time i did not pull the fuses, and was unsuccessful. Ran back out to U-Pull & Pay, got another module, pulled fuses and all went well. It could just as (and probably more so) well been that the first module i got was also bad. These things seem to have a real strong reputation for going bad because of cracking solder on the boards to pins. I would have tried that repair myself, but opening the electronic side is a PITA, and i have been half successful with solder repairs - i was able, however, to fix the headlamp switch by re-soldering it as also seen in YouTube videos.

Aside from that, i am very happy that her ABS is now good to go. In that less than a year ago i managed to ram my Isuzu Rodeo into the concrete barriers on I-25 near Castle Rock, CO, during a sudden snow storm (it was though i was the only person who didn't get the memo that it was coming), i have been very concerned over her having every safety possible!

With great appreciation to everyone who responded to help me on this including DaingMaing for the outstanding pages, Thank-you, and a great New Year!
 

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Just to add to this, I used a 4mm ignition wrench to remove those screws
 
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gday, i'm having this same issue in little old Melbourne, Australia

My mechanic wrote this...

"ABS pump circuit board are all cooked, there so brittle and the heat of the engine bays over 22 yrs has fried them all. as i said we have confirmed the sensors all work, wiring is OK, the pumps will work and everything but the ECU is OK, we've spent a lot of time on it, I've spent too much time typing! we need to cut everyone's losses"

Do you have a part number for the ecu? or how does the ecu relate to the ABS pump

I'm a bit of a n00b
 

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You are referring to the main engine control module on the firewall?
 

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Your ZJ wouldn't run well, if at all, if your ECU was damaged. Your ECU has very little to do with the function of the ABS controller. If you just have an ABS light have a look below.



gday, i'm having this same issue in little old Melbourne, Australia

My mechanic wrote this...

"ABS pump circuit board are all cooked, there so brittle and the heat of the engine bays over 22 yrs has fried them all. as i said we have confirmed the sensors all work, wiring is OK, the pumps will work and everything but the ECU is OK, we've spent a lot of time on it, I've spent too much time typing! we need to cut everyone's losses"

Do you have a part number for the ecu? or how does the ecu relate to the ABS pump

I'm a bit of a n00b
I'd check the connector as well, before going through and getting a new ABS controller. They're expensive as hell, if you can find one. On some ZJs with this ABS controller issues, the female connections in the plug lose their tension and don't make a solid connection anymore.

I would suggest some dielectric grease in the abs connector plug. If that doesn't do it, then consider getting a connector tool to pull apart the plug's wires and sockets to re-bend the connections to see if the connector is the issue. Our Grands are known for electrical gremlins.

Should you find that it is not the connection, there are a couple of videos on youtube:



One of these doesn't have audio. The solder in the 1990's didn't have much lead in it. It cracks over time. Many of the soldering issues are present in just about all of the modules in our late 90's ZJ's. The VIC display in the limiteds are well known for needing to be re-flowed, or having the connections' solder replaced.

I was going to eventually get around to putting together a thread on the ZJ's abs controller issues, but I ran out of time before relocating to the american southwest. I have yet to check my connector plug, for I have already resoldered my ABS controller, and it still doesn't work. I tried to get the local stealership to help diagnose the issue, but they wanted waaaaay too much money to even hook it up.
 

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Your ZJ wouldn't run well, if at all, if your ECU was damaged. Your ECU has very little to do with the function of the ABS controller. If you just have an ABS light have a look below.





I'd check the connector as well, before going through and getting a new ABS controller. They're expensive as hell, if you can find one. On some ZJs with this ABS controller issues, the female connections in the plug lose their tension and don't make a solid connection anymore.

I would suggest some dielectric grease in the abs connector plug. If that doesn't do it, then consider getting a connector tool to pull apart the plug's wires and sockets to re-bend the connections to see if the connector is the issue. Our Grands are known for electrical gremlins.

Should you find that it is not the connection, there are a couple of videos on youtube:



One of these doesn't have audio. The solder in the 1990's didn't have much lead in it. It cracks over time. Many of the soldering issues are present in just about all of the modules in our late 90's ZJ's. The VIC display in the limiteds are well known for needing to be re-flowed, or having the connections' solder replaced.

I was going to eventually get around to putting together a thread on the ZJ's abs controller issues, but I ran out of time before relocating to the american southwest. I have yet to check my connector plug, for I have already resoldered my ABS controller, and it still doesn't work. I tried to get the local stealership to help diagnose the issue, but they wanted waaaaay too much money to even hook it up.
Thanks that's great info, my auto electrician mentioned sending it off to jeep, do you know anything about that process?
 

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The only benefit of doing that is if they need to re flash the software in it
 

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The only benefit of doing that is if they need to re flash the software in it
X2 ^

Thanks that's great info, my auto electrician mentioned sending it off to jeep, do you know anything about that process?
I am still uncertain exactly what you are having issues with. I can only assume you have a solid, always on ABS light. If so, the only help you may get from a dealership will be like what 4.3L said above and they'll run a diagnostic like your mechanic most likely did, and that's about it. They have been out of stock on those controllers for a while now. At least here stateside, you may have had better luck in Aussie land.

I have not found any brand new, un-used ABS controllers lately. It's been a bit. The last time I found one, they were around ~$2,000 USD. I am sure you can find one from a junk yard(if they'll even sell it to you).

IS there anything else going on with how the Jeep is running, besides the ABS light?
 

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nah the abs light, and a fuc*ked calliper are the only issues....i think mechanic said something about the brake caliper

the steering wheel goes to weird angles so i'm tipping that's related to the caliper?
 
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