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am i likely to luck out on a controller that actually works? so far we've tried three? is there another issue perhaps?
 

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X2 ^



I am still uncertain exactly what you are having issues with. I can only assume you have a solid, always on ABS light. If so, the only help you may get from a dealership will be like what 4.3L said above and they'll run a diagnostic like your mechanic most likely did, and that's about it. They have been out of stock on those controllers for a while now. At least here stateside, you may have had better luck in Aussie land.

I have not found any brand new, un-used ABS controllers lately. It's been a bit. The last time I found one, they were around ~$2,000 USD. I am sure you can find one from a junk yard(if they'll even sell it to you).

IS there anything else going on with how the Jeep is running, besides the ABS light?
yep controller part of the ABS module was friedddd, ABS light always on

there's a company that checks out the abs controller with the soldering so i'll send it there
 

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Fix the caliper first. Faulty ABS Will still let the standard brakes operate just with out abs. I'm thinking from your original post that it's the abs ecu (abs control module) that is fried and needs replaced. I don't think he was talking about the engine ecu. If it was bad the jeep wouldn't even run. Put some feelers out to see if you can locate Ann abs module.
 

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No you were clear. My goofy phone didn't show your last 2 post. Lol
Your original post says all the sensors and wiring were ok. Check your grounds. A weak ground may have caused some back feed through the abs module. Gotta be a reason it fried. I'll look for some wiring info when I get home. About 9 hours from now. 😊
 

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Sorry I didn't get back to you. 2 very long days at work. I'm actually working right now, 😊
A turbo v8? Wtf? I didn't know that was ever an option. U.S. rules suck! If that is what module you have and it's fried, but you don't have that engine, it may be a wiring issue. Make sure you disconnect the battery before installing. I'm gonna try real hard too get you the wiring for the v8 turbo, smh still can't believe this.....😲
 

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On a lighter note, this is how I think you sound when I read your post:


Just some cheeky humor! Good day mate.
 

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Sorry I didn't get back to you. 2 very long days at work. I'm actually working right now, 😊
A turbo v8? Wtf? I didn't know that was ever an option. U.S. rules suck! If that is what module you have and it's fried, but you don't have that engine, it may be a wiring issue. Make sure you disconnect the battery before installing. I'm gonna try real hard too get you the wiring for the v8 turbo, smh still can't believe this.....😲

nah the part number off the pics of the pump i posted that's currently in mine (10.0511-8186.1 ) matches up with that ebay link....which is a 2002 4.7 v8

mine is a 4.0, 98 ZJ
 

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If that is for an 02, probably never going to work. Yes, they look the same. But in 99 the WJ went to a different computer language. I have tried blending some of that stuff, and it doesn't work. You need one for the 98 down
 

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View attachment 228245

this is the controller I need to take off and get rebuilt or soldered up yeah?

Yes, that's it. You do not have to disconnect the pump and manifold from the brake lines to remove the ABS controller. It helps to remove the 3ea 1/2" (or 10mm???) socket bolts that mount the ABS pump bracket. You will need an E4 or E5 reverse torx star bit(with the center punch) to remove the controller. I had good luck with a 4 or 5mm, but it takes forever. It is better to do it that way than to remove the pump from the lines. At which point you'll need a DB-III diagnostic tool to properly re-bleed the pump.

If you get that far, I am sure the re-soldering work will work on at least on of the three controllers you have... I guess...?

Good luck, and let us know what happens.
 

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ok i'm in the process of getting the two pumps that were tried in the beggining, assuming the first one was the original one

that mechanic place told me the part number for that was

52009240

and from this other forum, cop a look at this


was replacing my ABS computer and found this post. If I may provide some clarification:


52009240 is the P/N for the ABS Pump ECU Unit...this is the computer for the modulator...which goes bad often. You can call it the "ABS Computer" or whatever you want to call it...this is the one with the circuit board with the bad solder.



52009047 is the P/N for the ABS modulator itself...not the computer...and doesn't go bad very often. This is the actual pump



These two bad-boys are mated together and, as a single unit, are referred to as the "ABS Control Unit" in a lot of documentation. This is where the confusion seems to be, the language. It's two parts in the same system...a modulator (aka pump) and a computer controlling it. Adding to the confusion is that, when junk yards pull these things, they pull them as a whole unit...the two parts together, pump and computer. And they generally only see the one label, for the computer, the 52009240...so you'll see a lot of these being sold with the pump right along with it under the 52009240 part number. They don't know any better and, to the untrained eye, yeah, they look like a single unit. They're not.



As far as bleeding goes, there is absolutely NO NEED to bleed anything when replacing just the computer...the system isn't opened at all when replacing the 52009240...it also isn't paired with the car or anything...it's a straightforward remove and replace...you're just pulling it off and putting a new one back on. Any dealer telling you that the ABS computer needs to be paired to the car would be mistaken. On a newer car, for sure, but not on a ZJ.

You WILL need to bleed the system and will need a DRB tool if you replace the modulator itself, the 52009047...the system will be opened to do that job and bleeding is required.



In case someone is tackling this in the future, I wanted to post this for clarification. Rock on.



fu****ck me that has made it so much clearer
 

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so I took it to an auto electrician and he opened up the module, had a poke around in there and soldiered up some bad areas and BOOM abs light is off!

but now the last thing I have to fix is my steering wheel is always to the left and the car veers left under breaking, had it at a suspension place for a week and a half now and I think they were stumped, or just don't want to touch it
 

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I think I would be changing "suspension places". you can adjust the linkage from the steering box to the PS tie rod to center your steering wheel. This should SOP (standard operating procedure) with any suspension or alignment work.

You need to evaluate your brakes. Pulling hard to one side could be a stuck caliper or seized slide pins. But regardless, this needs checked now.
 
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