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abs remove

19K views 14 replies 7 participants last post by  raok1967 
#1 ·
i'm going to remove all abs stuff and putin a 95 booster, m/c and p=valve..everything i read says to relieve pressure first...how do i do that??? standing by for a reply thanks johnp:thumbsup:
 
#6 ·
removeing abs

seems to be a few questions about why remove abs....first is cost or repair or replace wilth 1995 system..second i can drive it like it is but my o/L is not a very good driver..i replaced the entire rear brakes seals out with all NEW parts-better but not good enogh then replaced the front all NEW parts better but stops when it wants to...desconected all abs electrics....no chANge...ordered 1995 booster,m/c,p/vlv and fittings..if this don't work ther will be a 1995 xj with no rust for sale or trade...there seems to a lot of home brew fixes some i tried others i considered a pipe dream..however i do appreciate ur good advice....THANKKS FOR A GREAT SITE...JOHNP:brickwall:
 
#8 · (Edited)
I removed the ABS from my 99. I was changing the rear from the D35 to the 8.25. I cut the sensor wires and removed the relay and fuses needed for the circiuts. Never touched the booster, master or porp valve. Had no need. And I had no problems with the brakes on either set up. The only thing I notice is that after a trail ride through mud, I need to do a slight adjustment since the sand and mud grind down the shoes while inside the drums. Otherwise, my brakes work great.
 
#10 ·
ok boys here is what i foundout....doobie ur wrong..there is pressure in the abs system..joseph hendrix.correct..2000xjidid that..lyon i'll try that next time if there is one..NOW for the guys in the boat with me check out auto zone site repair info,gen info,service precautions....best to y'all..........johnp
 
#12 ·
GM doobie..on my cherokee there is a metal canister up by the m/c.(about the size of a softball) that's the one under pressure..even has a warning sticker on it...as far as a relay having pressure, it do's not, it's full of smoke and if u let the smoke out it needs replacing....have a nice day and aint this fun..johnp
 
#14 ·
ABS modules are pretty damn intricate, very expensive and a PITA to bleed. You can remove it all together though which is what I did when I swapped in a grand cherokee booster and prop. valve. You can remove the relay for it, unplug it and simply rip it out and bend new brake lines. You will need to get a proportioning valve out of a none ABS jeep. One thing you want to make sure is that you plump everythign correctly to the proportioning valve because it is different. You will have 3 brake lines, 2 for the front and one for the rear. Make sure you attach them into the correct spot on the proportioning valve or you will have some serious issues.

The only reason I would ever recommend removing the ABS module is if you actually have a need to, ie it's faulty or you swap in axles without abs. Your engine will throw a check engine light (or at least store codes) so if you have state or smog inspection it will cause you to fail.

And yes, jeep brakes do suck, but you can improve them. 95+ uses dual diaphram brake boosters which is an easy swap, as with grand cherokees with disk brakes, and you can swap in rear disks with a new proportioning valve.
 
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#15 ·
ABS modules are pretty damn intricate, very expensive and a PITA to bleed. You can remove it all together though which is what I did when I swapped in a grand cherokee booster and prop. valve. You can remove the relay for it, unplug it and simply rip it out and bend new brake lines. You will need to get a proportioning valve out of a none ABS jeep. One thing you want to make sure is that you plump everythign correctly to the proportioning valve because it is different. You will have 3 brake lines, 2 for the front and one for the rear. Make sure you attach them into the correct spot on the proportioning valve or you will have some serious issues.

The only reason I would ever recommend removing the ABS module is if you actually have a need to, ie it's faulty or you swap in axles without abs. Your engine will throw a check engine light (or at least store codes) so if you have state or smog inspection it will cause you to fail.

And yes, jeep brakes do suck, but you can improve them. 95+ uses dual diaphram brake boosters which is an easy swap, as with grand cherokees with disk brakes, and you can swap in rear disks with a new proportioning valve.
ABS modules are pretty damn intricate, very expensive and a PITA to bleed. You can remove it all together though which is what I did when I swapped in a grand cherokee booster and prop. valve. You can remove the relay for it, unplug it and simply rip it out and bend new brake lines. You will need to get a proportioning valve out of a none ABS jeep. One thing you want to make sure is that you plump everythign correctly to the proportioning valve because it is different. You will have 3 brake lines, 2 for the front and one for the rear. Make sure you attach them into the correct spot on the proportioning valve or you will have some serious issues.

The only reason I would ever recommend removing the ABS module is if you actually have a need to, ie it's faulty or you swap in axles without abs. Your engine will throw a check engine light (or at least store codes) so if you have state or smog inspection it will cause you to fail.

And yes, jeep brakes do suck, but you can improve them. 95+ uses dual diaphram brake boosters which is an easy swap, as with grand cherokees with disk brakes, and you can swap in rear disks with a new proportioning valve.
Greetings from 2022! I realize that there is faint chance of getting a reply, but I stumbled upon your post and see that you also have a '93. I have the booster & assembly from a grand cherokee that I'd like to install, but am gathering info first. I also have discs in the rear but axle is an 8.8 (dana 30 front). I assume that I will encounter many of the same issues that you did. I'd very much appreciate any advice/tips.
 
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