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Discussion Starter #1
i'm pulling out my AW4 this afternoon. any tips, hints, or tricks to getting it out?

any input is appreciated!
 

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Stop at a local hardware store, you'll need an E-12 socket. It's a reverse Tork, you'll have two bolts at the top of the bellhousing that'll give you fits without one.

It's easier to handle if the transfer case is removed from it as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Stop at a local hardware store, you'll need an E-12 socket. It's a reverse Tork, you'll have two bolts at the top of the bellhousing that'll give you fits without one.

It's easier to handle if the transfer case is removed from it as well.

autozone had the E-12 socket for $3 :cheers:

i was thinking of removing the t-case as well. seems like it should be easier that way. plan on using a ATV/motorcycle jack to help get it out.
 

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yep remove crossmember and trany mount and there are 6 bolts to remove the t-case and the linkage is bolts are inside the cab on the trany hump drivers side or you can unbolt it from the t-case front next to where the DS bolts to the t-case. Use a rubber mallet and tap a bit and it'll slide out. Pretty easy and straight forward and also unplug a few things.
 

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sorry to dig up an old thread, in asuto tech now trying to get at my front seal, trans wont slide out, can you guys get me a quick picture of said E-12 bolts please? i couldnt feel any more bolts on the bell houseing.
 

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Drop the crossmember and tilt the transmission down. I used about 3 to 4 feet of extension to get to the bolts from the back of the transmission. also make sure you unbolt the torque converter before you separate the transmission from the engine.
 

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Drop the crossmember and tilt the transmission down. I used about 3 to 4 feet of extension to get to the bolts from the back of the transmission.
Good advice.. those two guys are a Bit$# to get to. If you feel dead center on the top of the bell housing, there will be one a few inches to each side of where center is. make sure your top dust cover has all the bolts out of it also.
 

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If I remember right you do not have to unbolt the torque converter from the flywheel before you pull the tranny out.
Bad idea. It's a bitch and a half to get seated properly again, and god forbid you spill any ATF out of it.

May I ask why you're swapping? I did the same thing, and it only made me realize how much I hate transmissions.
 

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Bad idea. It's a bitch and a half to get seated properly again
You can just take the TC off after you pull the tranny out, it would be much easier.

For re-installation, I would rather fight lining the splines up with the torque converter already on there than turn that damn flywheel inside the bellhousing to bolt it back on.

Both ways work, it just a matter of which you would rather fight.
 

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well im not swapping anything but the front seal in the aw4. mine pisses atf at the speed of light so its kind of a no other option but to just nut up or shut up and get the damn thing done. so thats where im at. got the e-12 socket now, gonna have at it not tmro but thursday, ill be sure to let you guys know how it goes.
 

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so, got all the bolts. turns out the trans has obiviously been out before, as there are no E-12 bolts to be found, starter is out, dust covers are all off, and the trans still will not come free from the engine. its moved about a quarter inch back and wont budge another millimeter
 

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well the dip stick still has another 3 inches if not more till it hits the tranny tunnel and theres the t case linkage that i unbolted from the tranny tunnel from inside the jeep and somehow it wont come apart, im stumped as to what the hell to do now, and just thinking about the stupid thing is getting me mad.
 

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Those dip sticks can be a real bitch to take apart, I would get it off there before pulling the trannny out the rest of the way. Make sure that t-case linkang is disconnected from the lever and the case then it can pull out of the "tranny tunnel"as the tranny comes out. if you are sure everything is disconnected from it, and it has seperated some already, then you probably just need to continue to wiggle, shake, and pull that bad boy out of there. If you lowered it to get to those bolts raise it back up back to normal position then wiggle it off, get a friend to help.
Don't forget all those electrical connections and the tranny fluid lines.
 

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k i got it all out, did the front seal, ended up having to unbolt the torque converter to get it off thw back of the engine. replaced the seal, got it all back together but now the trans wont line back up to the engine, any tips?!?! please guys i know its a bit to ask but the soonest the better as im at school right now and on a bit of a dead line to get it out of the shop!!
 

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The way I prefer to do it is to bolt the torque converter back onto the fly wheel first and then put the tranny up there. However, this makes it harder to line all the splines up. It requires much more lifting/turning/pulling/pushing because you just added another stage of splines to match up. But this is the way I prefer... other will do it another way.

Some will keep the torque converter on the tranny and then push it up there and line it up. This makes it easier to line the splines up, but once this is done.. now you have to turn the flywheel inside the bellhousing to get the Torque Converter mounted. Which sucks IMO. But if you are having trouble lining up the splines, you might want to try it this way.
 

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yes i did it the second way, and i plan to line the bolts up the same way i got them off, a friend yup front with a socket and ratchet on the ballencer to turn the motor over. problem ive been having its getting the trans to actually get close enough to the motor to start putting bolts into either the engine or the tc.
 

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The torque converter should be pushed into the transmission far enough so you can put a straight edge across the bellhousing and it not touch. In other words the torque converter gets pulled to the flexplate once the transmission is bolted tight.

to get the transmission back onto the engine both the engine and transmission have to be in line and not "kinked". then it's a bunch of pushing and pulling until it eventually drops into place. You may have to jiggle the torque converter up and down to in case the pilot hole isn't lined up with the t.c.
 
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