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my preference would have to be the T&T Customs Long Arm. I say this because I've heard nothing but good things and the arms have a bend in them to give you just about as much clearance a short arm kit. And plus you get one hell of a belly skid that they mount to.
 

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I think RK or whatever (rock krawler, or whatever), probably has the best designed kit from what I understand. It's actually a 3-link with panhard instead of a radius arm setup, or so I've been told. Radius arms work okay, but not the best, and have a LOT of inherent flaws.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
my preference would have to be the T&T Customs Long Arm. I say this because I've heard nothing but good things and the arms have a bend in them to give you just about as much clearance a short arm kit. And plus you get one hell of a belly skid that they mount to.
I love the belly skid which is probably why I will be going with it, downfall is the arms but hey for my use they will be great.
 

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I love the belly skid which is probably why I will be going with it, downfall is the arms but hey for my use they will be great.
why?
 

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What flaws? All i ever see is RE long arm and it's a radius arm setup. Everyone uses it and it seems to work very well. The most popular is RE's. The best is probably RK. Has anyone seen the skyjacker long arm kit flex? It's bad-AS# but the joints need improved. Heims just don't work on a DD very well.
 

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IMO I love my TNT, but I think Claytons set up is very nice... also the RK LA is a radius set up, on the drivers side arm the upper arm is connected to the lower arm making a "Y" and the passenger side arm is just a lower arm no upper. The RK set up is nice for the price, but lacks in adjustment.
 

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IMO I love my TNT, but I think Claytons set up is very nice... also the RK LA is a radius set up, on the drivers side arm the upper arm is connected to the lower arm making a "Y" and the passenger side arm is just a lower arm no upper. The RK set up is nice for the price, but lacks in adjustment.


I just about wrote a post apologizing for spreading bad information. But then I figured, hey, maybe I should just check to see if I'm right or not. You see, very few people in the jeep world refer to a suspension setup by the correct terminology, and I figured somebody had just called it a '3-link' when in reality it was a wristed radius arm setup (which is what you're describing). Being that I can hardly care about 'kits', I'm really not current on anything in that world. And thus, I have been known to get confused.

Refer: http://www.rockkrawler.com/pages/catalog/index.php?r_itemID=9

Now, if we look at this, we can clearly see a few things. There is 3 'arms' and a panhard (track) bar. The two longer (lower) links (arms) are identical. Neither has a bracket to mount the upper 'arm' to it. On the frame side brackets, you can clearly see they are not identical. One side has 1 mount, for a lower. The other has two mounts, one for a lower and one for an upper.

This makes it a true '3-link with panhard'.

Now, I'll give you the benefit of the doubt in that RK has made at least three, if not more, different 'long arm' kits in the past. Very well one may have been a wristed radius arm setup. However, the current is not.
 

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While flexed the pinion doesnt stay the direction it should be but rather rotates.

There's lots of problems. They bind like mad, and can pop axle tubes. The Anti-squat is totally wrong. And they cause a large caster change.

I could write a long post, but I won't. Basically, they do work, but a guy could do much better.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
There's lots of problems. They bind like mad, and can pop axle tubes. The Anti-squat is totally wrong. And they cause a large caster change.

I could write a long post, but I won't. Basically, they do work, but a guy could do much better.
What they do have on the competition is they have a decent kit where no welding is required for those of us who dont have access to one.
 

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they must have changed it... or thats not what you get trust me i have seen this kit in person (it might have been a older design) and this is what is looks or looked like I can sent you pic of it mounted to the jeep if you want to wait for me to walk outside in the cold. i hope you are right and they changed it that "newer" set up look alot better!

here is a pic of what we got last year when we ordered their "LA upgrade" kit...

 

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Can Of Worms.

Yes, there are inherent 'flaws' on 4-link radius arm setups, but unless you wont notice it unless youre running higher than 5-6" of lift. the whole 'ripping axle mounts apart' wont happen with a D30. D60 maybe, but I know guys running radius arms on 1-ton running gear and arent ripping their junk apart. have i seen radius arms 'unload'? yes. was it catastrophically bad? no. like i said, if youre not running a stupid amount of lift youll be fine. i have a few friends running the TNT kit and it is beef and awesome but i still prefer mah phactory phour lynk. i have a TNT belly skid in my shed waiting to be installed :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Can Of Worms.

Yes, there are inherent 'flaws' on 4-link radius arm setups, but unless you wont notice it unless youre running higher than 5-6" of lift. the whole 'ripping axle mounts apart' wont happen with a D30. D60 maybe, but I know guys running radius arms on 1-ton running gear and arent ripping their junk apart. have i seen radius arms 'unload'? yes. was it catastrophically bad? no. like i said, if youre not running a stupid amount of lift youll be fine. i have a few friends running the TNT kit and it is beef and awesome but i still prefer mah phactory phour lynk. i have a TNT belly skid in my shed waiting to be installed :thumbsup:
You have the LA's aswell going on?
 
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