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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
96 XJ here. Both my front fenders look like in the pictures (spots are rain drops) and a buddy just was telling me that if you take a blow torch and hold it far away and move it back and forth, then slowly toward the fender that it would 're-activate' the clear coat and make it look new again, getting rid of the white that I guess is caused by UV.

Is this true?

If so I guess I'd take the fenders off to do the job. Never heard of this before so thought I'd run it through you guys before attempting it.

Thanks.

Tire Wheel Car Automotive tire Vehicle

Tire Wheel Car Vehicle Automotive lighting
 

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i broke a bunch of the bolts when I took my flares off. But yes you can get rid of the white with a torch, but it's not the clear oat. it's plastic that has whitened. I see this mostly done on bumper caps that are black
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I've taken a route suggested on a different forum where I sand up to 600 grit, as is, then a layer of high build colored primer (sanded), then 3 coats of color (matched), then 2-3 coats clear acrylic. Problem is, I ordered them from automotivetouchup.com and now they're saying there's a 2 week+ supply chain delay in shipping, and I can't wait that long.

Going with this method of restoration, what other supplier can I source these three products from in rattle cans?...

  • high build red tinted primer
  • matched color
  • clear acrylic

Also, what's the difference between 1k and 2k acrylic clear?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well I got my shipment from touchupdirect.com of 1 can aerosol primer, 2 cans of color, and 1 can 2k clear. I've sanded everything down with 220 grit (heading toward 600) trying to smooth out some of the divots that were easier to get to.

I was hoping to get a high build primer but the only thing this company offered is what they call their Aerosol Primer, so I'm not sure how well this stuff will fill the divots I'm still looking at.

So my question is...do I need to stick with the 220 grit I'm at now and continue smoothing out all these other divots, or will say 2 coats of this primer fill them in once sanded out?

I'm not looking for anything close to perfection here. Just good adhesion, color and decent finish. Nicks don't bother me much.


Plant Terrestrial plant Petal Tree Tints and shades



Pink Magenta Tints and shades Rectangle Wood



Wood Plant Tints and shades Rectangle Magenta
 

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I've got no idea what size those are, but I'd be looking at skimming bondo on it and blocking it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well, here's where I've got to...

I sanded everything up to 600, filled the dings with putty, sanded back up to 600 then coated with 2 dashes of high-build primer. Next step is to wet sand with 800 then go to color and clear coat. Question is...how do I go about sanding the curved parts? Basically, each piece has 6 curved plane surfaces to sand...

1 is 1/2 to 1 1/2" wide
2 & 3 are both about 2"

Rim Tints and shades Automotive design Wood Fender


4 is 1/8" wide
5 & 6 are 1/2" wide

Brown Wood Door Hardwood Wood stain


This might be illustrated better by my original pictures but surfaces 1 and 2 are flat enough they could probably be block sanded, but 3 is mostly an all bulbous curved surface. 5 and 6 are probably flat enough to be block sanded, and 4 is so thin I won't be doing anything there but knocking off the edge between it and 5. Don't want to risk getting too close to 3 and scratch it with the edge of the paper. It's thin enough I don't think remaining unsanded will matter that much, but let me know if I'm wrong here.

2 questions are...

How do I go about sanding that curved 3 surface?

Before coating with primer, my previous sanding got down to the plastic in a few places. If I sand through the primer (to plastic or paint) and wet sand up to 800, will the paint layer stick to that? Or do I need to re-coat with primer if I sand through?
 
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