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Discussion Starter #781 (Edited)
I hate to drop $75 on a whim and be wrong, but it seems to be the only possibility. No return once installed.
I did try hopping the poles on the starter with no luck, with the key turned all the way to start and without.
 

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Discussion Starter #782
My starter would do that. Pulled it out and connected it to a jump pack and it worked fine. I swapped it out and haven't had a problem since. If you have a jumper, you can connect it directly to the starter solenoid and touch it to the battery. But PLEASE, make sure you're in park. This bypasses all safety features.
Nonetheless, thank you for confirming that my only conclusion isn't crazy.
 

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Discussion Starter #783
No luck, I'm still going crazy! At least my $75 got me a Napa starter with a lifetime warranty. Still no start, just a click.
 

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If you have jumper cables, bypass the hot wire by jumping from the battery hot post down to the starter. and see if it still clicks. You may have a major malfunction in the battery wire to the starter.
 

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Discussion Starter #785
I pm'd Cruiser54 over on JF. He asked if the dash lights dim when turning the key to start. That brought light to something I hadn't thought of. When turning the key to start I lose all power. Power returns upon releasing the key back to Run.
 

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sounds like the ignition switch. Hate to see you throwing parts at it hoping it fixes it.
 

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Discussion Starter #787 (Edited)
sounds like the ignition switch. Hate to see you throwing parts at it hoping it fixes it.
I thought so too so I already did that 1st. Now I got a spare switch. I'm gonna pull it apart again and re check the cables for damage. The only downside to cramming everything under the hood like I have is that alot of parts have to come out to get to it.
 

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You need one of these: Remote Start switch

It helps troubleshoot crank/start problems. It's a momentary push button switch, but you use it under the hood.

 

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Discussion Starter #789
I would, but this scenario, like all the others has taught me something. Now I've got what that switch will do programmed into my head ?
 

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Discussion Starter #790
I seriously need to re-engineer the connections to the positive battery post!! Way too much of a pita to get the battery out.
 

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When I had a no start issue and I would lose power when I turned the key it ended up being the battery. The battery tested good at the auto parts store but since I was a loyal customer and had a 3yr replacement warranty they replaced it. Replacing the battery solved my issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #792
With all of the testing that I've done, and the battery has had no charge applied to it for 2 weeks, it is at 11.75v
 

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IK think what he is saying is that his battery had voltage, but couldn't handle a load. May be what you are experiencing
 

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IK think what he is saying is that his battery had voltage, but couldn't handle a load. May be what you are experiencing
Yes, that is exactly what I meant. The battery stated it had voltage but when I applied a load to it it would lose power.
 

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Turn on the headlights. If they dim when you try to start it, then there is not enough current getting to the starter.
 

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Discussion Starter #797
At this point I've pulled the battery out to see if I have a frayed power line. I guess I'd be just as happy to replace the Optima again if it's gonna solve my problem. Nothing else in this scenario makes any sense.
 

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Discussion Starter #798
So it's not the battery! Which is all the better cuz Morris 4x4 won't call me back. My next effort is going to be removing all accessories from the equation. Starter and pdc only, or is there something else I'm missing that's crucial?
 

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Discussion Starter #800
Not yet. I haven't had a chance to get anybody over here to help, and the desire to work on it has been seriously lacking. I've been looking into some distribution blocks to try and clean up all the cables going to the battery. I figure I'll be checking every cable. So rerouting is likely to happen anyway.
 
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