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no, you have to flip the calipers over. The bleeders have to be on top.
 

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That was my point. The inlet always goes on the bottom and the bleeder on top. That way they fill from the bottom and the air will come out the to
The Inlet hose doesn't have to be on the bottom. but the bleeder absolutely does have to be on top. With the parking brake lever on top, the caliper is upside down. They have to be flipped from side to side to correct the issue.
 

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1998 Jeep Cherokee xj sport w/4.0 auto D30 front and 8.25 rear 6” rubicon express lift fox shocks
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The Inlet hose doesn't have to be on the bottom. but the bleeder absolutely does have to be on top. With the parking brake lever on top, the caliper is upside down. They have to be flipped from side to side to correct the issue.
That’s what I thought so now the ebrake levers are one the bottom and the hoses on top but what’s odd is the bleeders are in the middle of the calipers so no matter how I mount the calipers they always seem to be in the middle the company I bought them from is LEEDS brakes and they are made for my XJ, when I swapped sides with them I noticed the calipers are marked L and R but that again puts the ebrake mechanisms on top and not the bottom where they belong
 

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I am not familiar with LEED brakes. So i went to their website and did some sniffing around You are correct. The bleeder is on top, along with the e-brake lever. The fluid line attaches at the bottom. I stand corrected.
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Did you adjust the parking brake on both calipers. you have to apply and release, apply and release, keep repeating this until the play in the caliper has been adjusted out. The caliper piston has an internal screw that the park brake rotates to keep the brakes adjusted. when you replace worn out pads, you have to manually reset this screw.
 

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1998 Jeep Cherokee xj sport w/4.0 auto D30 front and 8.25 rear 6” rubicon express lift fox shocks
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I am not familiar with LEED brakes. So i went to their website and did some sniffing around You are correct. The bleeder is on top, along with the e-brake lever. The fluid line attaches at the bottom. I stand corrected. View attachment 230495
I double checked the bleeders and they weren’t in the middle infact they were at the bottom at least on mine so I put ‘‘em back where they belong which has now put the ebrakes back on top and the hoses on bottom and now I was able to bleed ‘em successfully, unfortunately the master cylinder I bought is now leaking at the booster so I’m gonna let the garage finish it but the brake light is off and I’ve got brakes……yahhhhh!!!!!!!!!
 

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1998 Jeep Cherokee xj sport w/4.0 auto D30 front and 8.25 rear 6” rubicon express lift fox shocks
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I am not familiar with LEED brakes. So i went to their website and did some sniffing around You are correct. The bleeder is on top, along with the e-brake lever. The fluid line attaches at the bottom. I stand corrected. View attachment 230495
Those are the ones I’ve got for sure
 

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1998 Jeep Cherokee xj sport w/4.0 auto D30 front and 8.25 rear 6” rubicon express lift fox shocks
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no, you have to flip the calipers over. The bleeders have to be on top.
Done and now I’ve got brakes still got to deal with the master cylinder I did replace it butt it’s leaking……figures it’s a Jeep lol oh and thanks for the info much appreciated
 

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1998 Jeep Cherokee xj sport w/4.0 auto D30 front and 8.25 rear 6” rubicon express lift fox shocks
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Did you adjust the parking brake on both calipers. you have to apply and release, apply and release, keep repeating this until the play in the caliper has been adjusted out. The caliper piston has an internal screw that the park brake rotates to keep the brakes adjusted. when you replace worn out pads, you have to manually reset this screw.
Yes I had to pump the ebrake levers to close the pads around the rotors
 

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1996 Cherokee xj
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42 Posts
Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Hey, my liberty disk brake conversion is helping stop my xj really good and I now have a few months of driving in them. Actually I got to use them with my 31 inch tires and for a couple months and then I put on my new long arm lift kit and 35 inch tires over summer break. I have been driving for about 3 weeks now with the 35's and I am still happy with the breaking performance, sure they are not as strong but it was a minimal amount lost to the bigger tires and lift kit. The jeep is breaking perfectly straight and smoothly with no grabby buisness.

My one issue is the e-brake, It feels good when I pull it up but it is not stopping me from rolling forward hardly at all. It works really good at stopping me from rolling backwards but now forwards.

Anyone have a suggestion to why?
 

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1996 Cherokee xj
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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
are the rear brakes properly adjusted?
That is the million dollar question, I have adjusted them twice and I believe they are within the range of acceptable. My thing is when I pull up on the lever it gets nice and solid like I would want it and it holds awesome when trying to roll backwards. But it won't hold my jeep from rolling forwards.

To me the one thing I see that could be the main issue is how the two metal plates hook together and how I installed them. I am talking about the two metal plates that the cable hooks to and spreads the two brake pads.
 
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