Jeep Cherokee Talk banner

1 - 20 of 27 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,134 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
after i did my lil 2.5" lift i started having front drive line issus so i was researching this and came apon a great article but wanted to make it a bit simpler so heres my write up from this one
TCase spacers


to get started you need a floor jack, a 15mm socket, drill, drill bits,etc.
i bought 12" of 2"x1"x1/8" rectangle hollow section tube for about $5 and had it cut in two 6" sections. i got 4 bolts that are 2" long to replace the ones i remved they are 10 mm with standard pitch ( 1.5 ). i got grade 10.1 with a 17mm head as im not a fan of 15mm bolts.
i then put the jack under the crossmember frim but not lifting the jeep. then removed the bolt only on one side. to get the stud bolt out i put a extra nut on it tight so the stud would spin out not the nut. then put my spacer in to where its nice and even and jacked the cros member up tight against it and made marks thru the hole and then drilled my holes out till it was just right. this is alot easier than trying to go by the above mentioned write up and drilling without test fitting.
i painted em with primer then flat balck the slap em in. one side at a time!
do not remove the entire crossmemeber you will be sorry if you do.




notice the double nuts this is how you get the studs out. some come out easy some dont.i dont advise vise grips but some people grind the stud flat on 2 sides to get it out with vise grips.












 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,134 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Nice. I did the same thing.
wow i never even thought of doing it that way. what size steel did you use?
im a cheapazz and i hate seeing people pay for junk like this below


even if it is only $25 it bad for the unibody frame rail! 100%crap i can buy that tube stock for cheap too.im of the mind frame that slapping on out of the box crap isnt always the best or most affordable way to go nor is it building or hotrodding depending on your application.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,134 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
anyone know how to adjust the shifter after a tc drop? i had to remove my boot because it was very hard to get into 2nd or 4th gear
 

·
Web Wheeler
Joined
·
2,573 Posts
wow i never even thought of doing it that way. what size steel did you use?
im a cheapazz and i hate seeing people pay for junk like this below
I used 1 1/4". The reason I didn't use 1" was because I couldn't get the wrench inside to tighten the nut :p
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,134 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I used 1 1/4". The reason I didn't use 1" was because I couldn't get the wrench inside to tighten the nut :p
yeah i thought so, thats why i asked. so do you have a manual? i had to remove my shift boot so that i could get into second and fourth gears.lowering changes things
 

·
Web Wheeler
Joined
·
2,573 Posts
yeah i thought so, thats why i asked. so do you have a manual? i had to remove my shift boot so that i could get into second and fourth gears.lowering changes things
No I have an auto.
 

·
Budget Master
Joined
·
1,145 Posts
One of my friends in a s-10 practicaly broke his transfer case in half doing some crazy wheeling last weekend lol. that will be a 400$ replacement.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,134 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
i just did my clutch and now my exhaust hits the crossmember but it didnt before with the tc drop, wonder why?it makes a sound like a crappy set of gears grinding. i slipped a leather work glove between the two to make sure. sure enough the noise was gone but now i smell burning leather lol. it looks like i can remove the hanger where it bolt up to the cat so maybe i can fix the problem by drilling out new holes to relocate it up more
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,134 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
i think this was the best mod i ever did to my old xj. when i was playing with lifts it supported it all the way up to 8". not say the other stock parts could have for vey long at those angles. having dropped it down to 6" and never needing a slip yoke eliminator or even adjustable contol arms and just a tc drop and track bar relocation i think is interesting. for those going over 3" try this before you buy some expensive sye.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,134 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
im about to have to do this one again to my new jeep
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
315 Posts
Hmm... All this stuff is new to me i don't even have a jeep yet and have never worked on one so i'm trying to figure out how to do this because i was told it would be a good idea if i put a lift on, which when i get a jeep soon i plan on putting a rubicon express 3.5 inch superflex lift on. I don't quite understand this but i sure have a better idea of what i would be doing
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,134 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Hmm... All this stuff is new to me i don't even have a jeep yet and have never worked on one so i'm trying to figure out how to do this because i was told it would be a good idea if i put a lift on, which when i get a jeep soon i plan on putting a rubicon express 3.5 inch superflex lift on. I don't quite understand this but i sure have a better idea of what i would be doing
that lift kit might come with the transfercase drop
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
840 Posts
If it's OK, I'd like to add a note about the two studs holding the cross-member to the frame rails.

The studs on my 1998 XJ had little shoulders about midway down their length.

These shoulders don't fit through the cross-member holes.

In my attempt to get one of them out, I stripped the weld nut inside the frame.

In retrospect, I should have lowered the cross-member on each side to allow the stud to back out.

In other words, on the side you are working take out the bolt & take the nut off the stud.

Then lower that side of the cross-member with a jack & then take out the stud, if that makes sense.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,134 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
good point
If it's OK, I'd like to add a note about the two studs holding the cross-member to the frame rails.

The studs on my 1998 XJ had little shoulders about midway down their length.

These shoulders don't fit through the cross-member holes.

In my attempt to get one of them out, I stripped the weld nut inside the frame.

In retrospect, I should have lowered the cross-member on each side to allow the stud to back out.

In other words, on the side you are working take out the bolt & take the nut off the stud.

Then lower that side of the cross-member with a jack & then take out the stud, if that makes sense.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
315 Posts
I don't understand this t-case drop stuff still... and i'm gonna have to do it when i get a lift kit for my jeep! D:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
on the issue of tcase drop being home made did you guys have and other troubles like the linkage for shifter and how bout engine angle and stuff ... does it not change it that bad?
 
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
Top