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I moved this to the correct section.

What year is your XJ?

Generally you are going to need a SYE with 4.5" of lift and I would recommend it. But every XJ is different and I have heard of some people getting by without it.
 

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If it is an early vintage XJ you may squeak by with a transfercase drop but as Kyle said every Jeep is different. If it is a 94 or newer it is almost guaranteed that a SYE is going to be required.
Oh, OK, so 94 is the year they started using the TJ D30 on the front end. I was wondering what the year was for that, thanks!!

Whats the deal with the SYE do you have to have this?
As the others stated it depends on your XJ. I have an 87 with around 6.5" lift in the front and 5.5" in the rear and I have a T-case drop kit on mine and it does a great job. I had my driveline lengthened by .5"...and beefed up as well, but that was for another reason!!:eek:HTH!! Keep us posted on your progress, later!!
 

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Oh, OK, so 94 is the year they started using the TJ D30 on the front end. I was wondering what the year was for that, thanks!!
No, they didn't start using the low pinion D30 in the XJ until 2000. 2000 and 2001 were the only years the XJ got that axle. And it actually wasn't identical to the TJ axle -- the XJ axle used different LCA brackets.

The driveline vibration issues started with 1996 models though, not 1994. 1996 was the first year for the revised transfer case tail housing design.

Like the others guys have said, there's no absolute answer to the question of SYE or not. However, if the vehicle is a '96+ you've got a much higher chance of needing one.

Also, vibrations or not, an SYE is a good idea anyway just to upgrade the set up to handle the increased driveline angles from running a suspension lift.

Also, if you go with a heavy-duty SYE, like Rugged Ridge, AA, or JB Conversions, you can use a front XJ driveshaft for your rear driveshaft. This can reduce the overall initial cost to do the SYE if you're on a tight budget, plus it makes having a spare driveshaft easy since you can carry one spare shaft to fit both front and rear, or worst case if you break your rear driveshaft you can swap your front one to the rear to get you home or back to camp.
 

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Jason do you happen to sell or have info on whether or not those heavy duty SYE kits are available for the NP242? I know that RE makes a hack-n-tap setup...
I can tell you unless someone came out with one in the last 6 months Hack n Taps are all there are for 242s.
 

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It is best to do the hacking with the engine running and the tranny in reverse and a cutoff wheel on the air tool. after removing the driveshafts. E brake on. Took about 2-3 minutes to shorten the shaft. No real need to remove the t/c and the reverse method gives an even smooth cut.
 

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It is best to do the hacking with the engine running and the tranny in reverse and a cutoff wheel on the air tool. after removing the driveshafts. E brake on. Took about 2-3 minutes to shorten the shaft. No real need to remove the t/c and the reverse method gives an even smooth cut.
Cool I assume an electric angle grinder with proper cutoff wheel should work? then it's makeing sure you tap the hole dead center which err seems a bit tough to do..Will have to borrow my neighbors hammer drill..sure would be easier to chop and tap with shaft out..lol
 

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Cool I assume an electric angle grinder with proper cutoff wheel should work? then it's makeing sure you tap the hole dead center which err seems a bit tough to do..Will have to borrow my neighbors hammer drill..sure would be easier to chop and tap with shaft out..lol
May be easier to tap with the shaft out but chopping it is easier with the shaft under the vehicle if you use blues method. It works very well.
 

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I spent about 5 minutes getting my center punch dead center but the tapping was easy. Used about half a can of WD 40 as lube while tapping. That took about 20 minutes as I could visualize breaking the tap off in the partially tapped hole so I took my time and it was fine. I was kinda worried at the time but it worked out OK.
 

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No you don't need an sye to lift an xj. You WILL need tools, jack stands, jack, and some beer to do it.:p

Once you lift it and take it for a ride, then you'll know if you NEED an sye ;)
 

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Mine doesn't have a SYE yet, eventually I will. It has minor vibrations.

I'm going to do one, because I going to go higher.
 

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im at 4.5" and netted about 5.5" compared to stock. just a tcase drop for now. minor vibes..sye later when i have money and new meats.
 

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I have a 1998 Jeep XJ Classic. 4.5" RC lift, came with a 1" drop for the transmission. No vibes. I'm still going to do the SYE (Tom Woods) but later.
 

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I have a 1999 XJ Classic with a RC 6.5" lift, 2" coil spacers, and 2" blocks in the rear. Even though I have a 1" TC drop, I still got the RE Hack-n-Tap and CV shaft and couldn't be happier. I did it with a cut off wheel, WD-40, a tap, and swearing......lots and lots of swearing :devil: It definatly was nerve racking trying to not break off the tap, and even though it's not perfectly centered, it hasn't moved at all yet.:thumbsup:
 
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