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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Here's a how-to on doing your front brakes. This is on my '98 XJ 4WD, but the basics apply to almost any vehicle, with slight variances.
(Click on the image for a closer look)

First thing's first...
Chock the rear tires, and jack up either the whole front or whichever side you are gonna start with, and remove the tire. That should get you to this point:
Dsc00053.jpg



Next, remove your caliper bolts (2 of them. Mine were originally 13mm, but someone at Wagner thought it would be funny to make the new ones I was installing a 12pt. 5/16")
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Now you can pull the caliper off. The pads usually lock into one of the channels on the caliper itself, so you might have to tip it up or down to slide it off (Note the tabs on the pads pointing straight up (top) compared with the ones pointing down (bottom).
Dsc00055.jpg


Now pop out your pads. The piston side usually comes off easy, while you might need a screwdriver to pop out the outboard pad. (I ran into a problem, hence why there's no lower caliper bolt sleeve. I had to fix the threads on the steering knuckle.). Then you can compress the piston back into its bore. I use some big azz channel locks (I know, I'm old school :D).
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Discussion Starter #2
Front Brakes, Part 2.

Here's what the caliper looks like when full compressed into its bore:
Dsc00058.jpg

Now hang the caliper out of the way for now (I use my LCA. Fits perfect.) and remove your old rotor. If re-using them, use some care in removal as to not warp the hell out of them, and bring them out to get cut if they're still within spec. If not, scrap them.
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Here's new compared with old (rotors and pads):
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Now just slide the rotor onto the hub:
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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Front Brakes, Part 3.

Now, pop your pads on. The 3 fingered pad is your inboard pad, and the one with the 2 spring tabs on it is outboard. If you like, you can smear the disc brake quiet on there at this point before placing them into the caliper.
Here's the pads installed:
Dsc00063.jpg

Now remount the caliper. Make sure you place the tabs onto the caliper mount and rock them forward/backward to seat the caliper!!! Installation at this point and on is the exact opposite of installation. Once the caliper is seated, use some caliper grease on the bolts, and slide them in and start threading them by hand. Then just tighten, and low and behold, this is what it looks like:
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Now place your wheel back on and tighten your lug nuts and you're done with one side. Repeat on other side.

When finished: make sure to check your brake fluid and top off as needed, then start your Jeep and pump up the brake pedal several times to seat the pads and set the caliper piston before going anywhere. Top off brake fluid again as needed.
 

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Nice dude
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Front Brakes, Addendum

Here's what happens when you ignore that odd sound when you hit the brake pedal.
Check this thing out...
If the metal dust rust off my rim didn't give it away,
see if you can guess why it was making noise when I stopped....
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Lookin good so far...
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Oooh...what's that?
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Oh..See now there's your problem...
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Discussion Starter #7
It was floating fine, just dropped the inner pad. I saved the one from passenger side. I've been hearing a lot about people having that happen. I had it happen a little over a year ago on my MC-SS, now on that one. I usually put drilled on everything cuz I am really hard on brakes at times... Plus they're no more expensive than regular stock replacements... This is my second set for the 98, and I got drilled and slotted on my MC-SS.
 

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I'm interested in what kind of pads you are using.

Your first pic show that very little of the pad is actually contacting the rotor during braking. There are obviously high spots on the upper and lower edges of the pads. Is this a normal wear pattern for whatever type of pads you are using??
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Which first pic...first overall or first on the bad rotor thread?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The caliper on that side is the one I ran into the bolt issues with. When I was pulling the caliper the top bolt was fine, but the bottom one was not only seized in the little sleeve, the threads were damn near totally gone on it too. I took it out by hand without ever having to unscrew it. So, the best that I can figure is that the suction of the boots and everything around the sleeve kept it in, but the threads being that f-ed up never anchored the caliper down, so every time I hit the pedal, that thing would flex pretty good.
Some of the high spots (around the cross-drilling) were cuz I never took the time to throw them on a lathe to straighten them out before I mounted them, as I do every other time...

The pads from the before were a set of the Carbon Metallic Performance Friction. The new ones are a set of Wagners.
 

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hey Bowtie, I need to change mine, bc I was draggin them real bad today, well when I came home it was smoking,, the inside of the disc its a lil thinner than the outside, is that normal or should I buy new rotors too, I allready have some real nice ceramic pads,, also any heads up? this will be my first break job
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Your rotors should be wearing about even, i.e. around the same thickness... Just lube your caliper mounts good, it sounds as if you have a caliper hanging up... I bought new rotors cuz I knew mine were trashed, or else I would have turned them, I actually still have the right side rotor as a back up.

Just take your time, clean off the caliper mounting area really good with a wire brush, and don't forget the caliper lube and anti-seize on the caliper bolts. Oh, and don't twist the caliper hose up or let the caliper hang from the hose. I put mine on my LCA's, they fit perfect there...
 
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