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Take a look under the hood –

• If your air filter is dirty, you can lose 1 mile per gallon at 50 mph.
• If your PCV valve is not functioning properly, you’re running your engine less efficiently, and you maybe burning and polluting your oil, too.
• If your spark plugs are misfiring, the problem can cost you up to 25% in gas mileage.
• IF your ignition system is overdue for a tune-up, do it or have it done NOW.
• If the accessory belts that connect your fan, water pump, alternator, and a variety of other devices are too loose or too tight, a serious loss of efficiency can be the result.
• If a brake is poorly adjusted, it may “drag” while the vehicle is in motion.
• If you hear a rumbling sound, your wheel bearings may be worn and may need to be replaced.

Drive Eco- Logically –

• Arrange your car seat as comfortably as possible. Research has shown that a comfortable driving position helps you tread more lightly on the gas pedal, and a light foot on the gas pedal saves gas.
• Start an accelerated slowly and smoothly.
• Obey the speed limits, especially in city traffic.
• Try to stay in your lane.
• Set a steady pace.
• Build up speed slowly before you get to a hill.
• Try coasting down hills, using the weight of your vehicle and its momentum to carry you down, with your foot OFF the accelerator.
• Use Overdrive. Doing so can save you another 10% in fuel.
• If you have a manual transmission, shift into higher gears as soon as possible.

Fill ‘Er up Eco – Logically

• In hot weather, fill up in the early morning or evening, when the air is cooler. An increase of only 30 degrees can cause 10 gallons of gas to expand by as much as four-fifths of a quart – that’s as much as a bottle of whiskey!
• Never overfill the tank.

Keep your tires Properly Inflated

Use a Trailer Instead of a Roof Rack – Those light-looking roof racks are deceptive. They create quite a bit of drag, especially when fully loaded, and the ensuing wind resistance substantially interferes with the air flow around the car. As a matter of fact, a small trailer loaded with the same gear is probably not as big a liability because trailers travel in the “wake” of the car and meet with less air resistance. Of course, they weigh more, too, but once underway, they follow along easily if you don’t speed. Besides you always disconnect the trailer when you don’t need it, but you tend to carry the empty roof rack around even when you have no load to put on it.

This info is provided by my Auto Bible
 

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Good info during a time like this.
 

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Great Post!

I also like to draft about 50-75 feet behind a Semi trailer on the freeway. Not the safest thing to do, but at these gas prices I have no problems hitching a ride in the wake of a big rig. Most of my wheeling spots are a 30-40 minute ride down the freeway so every little bit helps.

Good point on the manual tranny too. I keep my rpms around 1700-1800 when I am driving. I get pretty good mileage out of my XJ. It rarely gets above 2100 rpm on the street.
 

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That one don't save any mpg do to a vehicle is built to be most arrow dynamic with windows up. Windows down drops fuel mileage by up to 15%...
this was on mythbusters. they showed that windows down and ac off saves gas.

the test was two suvs, with 5 gallons of gas, running around a track at 55 mph. One had windows up and ac on, one had them down with ac off. The one with ac off and windows down lasted longer.

but if you mean windows up and ac off...never mind :)
 

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If you drive with the windows down and the A/C off the drag due to the windows being open is none to minimal because of the wind(air) coming in and exiting immeditly.If you only open one window how ever your going to create drag to that wind(air) having only one entrance and exit.Sciencetific research and not such sciencetific research have shown driving with you windows down and driving at the speed limit save gas!
 

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I am new to driving a straight 6 4.0 liter. The V-6 in the Passat 4-Motion is 2.8

Remarkably this Jeep idles at low rpm, and drives at the same. I did not expect this.

The fill up tips I was aware of.

How about running with more than half tank, better for the mpg's, so they say, but I have issue with that as 8 pounds/gallon adds up depending on fuel cell.
 

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Followed most of the tune-up and driving tips not too long ago (acquired my own book :)), and having done the maths during the past five weeks I can say that I'm averaging 18.9 mpg on the freeway and roughly 14mpg around town. Stock gears-ish (yet to regear the 8.8 so it's 3.27), 33x12.50 MTR Kevlars, 5-spd, usual sliders, skidplates, and long-arms. Finding the proper tire pressures was helpful as well, plus longer tire life is always great. Air tires to max PSI, draw chalk line across each tire. Drive a little ways, check the line. If it's wearing off in the middle first, deflate a couple PSI and re-chalk. Repeat until chalk wears off evenly all the way across each tire.
Granted I have a few power goodies (intake, full exhaust, bigger plug wires, etc), but I was astounded at the differences. I would barely get 240mi / tank before.
 
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