Jeep Cherokee Talk banner

241 - 258 of 258 Posts

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,966 Posts
I'm with you all the way. I have 35's on cut fenders and 4.5" they rub a lot. I'm anxious to see what you find in 15x10.5 mine are 12.50's a little too wide for my taste.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
171 Posts
Discussion Starter · #242 ·
I have daystar 2" extended upper bumps and 1 hockey puck lower bump and it keeps my tires clear of everything but the inner pinch weld at full lock. I'm going to have to give it the cut and fold over and I'll have all the inner clearance I can get without major surgery/fab. I could get greedy and try for more up travel but there's no point since the inner wheel well is just too small.

I'll be looking into the kenda klever rt in 35x10.5x17 eventually and once I get them I can re evaluate things but I still have a feeling bumps will have to stay as is. The narrow will give me a bit more breathing room for turning but, again, the wheel wells won't be big enough to fit a 35 any farther without fab work, which is way more involved than just leaving the bumps set to where they are.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
171 Posts
Discussion Starter · #243 ·
Pics..... 🙃
229387
229388
229389
229390
229391

Painted the wheels because I don't like them so black hides the ugly and $2 spray paint is cheaper than wheels.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,030 Posts
Itr is possible to have good steering at 6.5". I have 8" lift and good steering with no wobbles. You do have to have all the geometry down to a gnat's eyebrow. If you have ever looked at gnats, that is really, really small. :D
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,030 Posts
I am currently using a paint called "chalk Board" for that. Slightly grey, but still black and very durable
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
171 Posts
Discussion Starter · #246 ·
I am currently using a paint called "chalk Board" for that. Slightly grey, but still black and very durable
How's it hold up and does it stain with from dirt? I've seen it but never had the nerve to try. I just shot the wheels with some leftover crap in the garage for now, they're getting done a bit better when the weather warms up and isn't forecasting rain.

As for steering, it drove super nice at 6.5, but since I'm running the Currie Correct Lynk the tie rods would limit down travel. That was my only gripe. To be honest, it drives just as nice now as it did before, except it just feels more stable being 3" lower. This was more of an " I wanna try this out" than anything. I dig it, but will for sure need armor for the underside now. Have a few things to tweak I was lazy and put off, but it's pretty much done and those are things of leisure.

Only certain thing left will be swapping these arms for some clayton overland arms with Giiro Bushings instead of full Johnny joints. For the little bit of misalignment I'll sacrifice, I'll gain in comfort since I find myself driving this so much everywhere. I do have a d30 I'm gonna slowly build into a Super 30 and add a tru-trac instead of a full locker, but that's gonna be a long term project.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,030 Posts
I have run the chalk board paint for about ten years on the spokes of my aluminum wheels. Holds up well, little fading and tough enough for chalk. My long arms are a hybrid of Johny joints style, only larger and bushings that have some small amount of give to absorb vibrations
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
171 Posts
Discussion Starter · #248 ·
I have run the chalk board paint for about ten years on the spokes of my aluminum wheels. Holds up well, little fading and tough enough for chalk. My long arms are a hybrid of Johny joints style, only larger and bushings that have some small amount of give to absorb vibrations
I'll have to give it a try! Easy touch up for spray paints is a huge plus.

I am considering long arms, but I as far as I've seen tnt and iron rock are the only 2 companies that work lower than 4.5" lift. At 3.5-3.75 lift my angles aren't really bad enough on the arms to really validate 2x the cost of a decent set of short arms. Granted arc of travel will be much better with long arms, but being this low might open up a can of worms clearance wise. Still have to rear more into this.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
171 Posts
Discussion Starter · #249 ·
New clayton Track Bar, replacement axle mount, and a set of the Clayton GIIRO joints for my control arms is on the way. Hoping to clean up the street ride a little bit. Double Johnny Joints aren't needed since I'm not seeing a ton of misalignment, so hopefully the Giiro joints take some of the feedback out of the street ride. Also got an upgraded headlight harness to go with my h4 upgrade.

Really gonna try and fine tune how this thing runs the highway. Everything is nice and tight up front so I just need to fine tune alignment a bit more and this thing will drive like new-ish
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
171 Posts
Discussion Starter · #250 ·
Re did my axle side track bar mount today. Used a Barnes 4x4 stock replacement and a Clayton Track Bar. What a pain to cut the old cobbled mess out. My axles have seen better days in regards to rust, always makes welding fun. Unfortunately my garage power doesn't like running my welder at the highest amperage so it took forever going in an out resetting the breaker. Happy with the outcome and should do me well until I axle swap it one day.

Also upgraded the headlight harness with a K Suspension Fab. $25 and it works awesome, especially with my h4 upgrade. Tossed on my old rustys track bar and steering box braces as well. Figure I already had them and it's cheap insurance until I decide to plate the frame and get appropriate bracing. Tossed my 33s back on, one drive in the rain and the 35s had to go. They're old enough they've hardened with age and hsve become like skateboard wheels, not the best for wet conditions. I'll keep my eyes peeled for a deal on some replacements eventually.

Was a long day and it felt like it took way longer than it should. Tomorrow I need to button it up and I'll get some better pictures. I had intentions on being better at documenting this, until I ended up covered in grease. Clayton Giiro Joints for control arms should be here tomorrow or the next day and that should round out the suspension rehab. Next will be getting all these godforsaken LED bulbs swapped out and some tailight boxes, armor and oh who knows what hell else I'll think of. I'm gonna go pick grinding grit out of my ears.....

Pics....because that's what everyone truly wants!
229403
229404
229405
229406
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
171 Posts
Discussion Starter · #251 ·
Well, update for anyone following along.

Somehow I mis measured my upper control arm joint size and the clayton upper won't work. Weighing my options but right now I might just finish fine tuning the castor and run these arms a bit longer. I'll prob return the set of joints and have them apply that to a full set of new control arms. The 4 joints were $200 so it'll be approximately 1/2 the cost of a new set of arms.

Side note, I took some measurements and it seems I'm sitting a bit higher than I anticipated.

4" front and about 4.5" rear measuring from axle to frame. Surprised it rides so well on short arms at this height. I havent totally sold off the idea of long arms either, just reading up on which ones might work best at my lower height. Hate to say it but the RC upgrade is really tempting at its price point.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
171 Posts
Discussion Starter · #252 ·
Trail Forged Crossover steering, Barnes 4wd pieces to build upper control arms, A.C. condenser and lines, hydro assist, as well as some misc odds and ends are on the way.

I reinstalled my control arm drops for the interim. I REALLYYYYY want a 3 link setup, but the 1k it's gonna cost needs to go elsewhere right now since I'm laid off. $50 got me the stuff needed to build uppers and I'm gonna see if these Giiro Joints will fit in my lower RC arms I snagged off my buddies. My old arms are wiped out and the joints wouldn't thread out or in so I'm running these for now. With my lower height and bump stops set I'm seeing 3-4" of bump travel and the rest is droop, with this setup misalignment is minimal and I don't foresee myself wearing out bushings very quick. Control arms are perfectly flat, which is nice and I'll be able to easily dial caster as needed.

Currie steering will be available for free + shipping soon. It needs at least 1 TRE, which seem to be about $85 a piece, so taking that into account someone could rebuild it to like new for 1/2 or less of a new setup, with an impending axle swap, crossover was a natural move in prep for things and the currie has been awesome for 10years.

Still need to fold front pinch seam over, that'll be tomorrow since I'm on hold until my parts show up. I'm thinking frame stiffeners and more body work will consume me this summer so I'm cramming to get the jeep driving right. I want to cut the wheel wells front and rear and weld them up nice so I can run some 35s when it's time for tires. I'm hoping to cut rear quarters, 2x6 rockers etc so frame stiffeners need to happen before much else. Oy.....the list keeps growing!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
171 Posts
Discussion Starter · #253 ·
229452
229453
229454
229455


Since hydro assist is in the works, I figured I would try out the stock pump mod. I have to say it's immediately noticeable and I can turn sitting at idle with no effort. If the WJ pump is as awesome as they claim vs this, I may very well not need hydro assist. Drilled fitting orfice to 5/32 and simply reinstalled. Much better feel at idle.

Tossed a cheapo cooler into the little nook where stock airbox sat. It gets enough airflow from the fan it should certainly help keep cavitation and steering fade down a little.

For $30 bucks between fluid, cooler and o rings this is one of my favorite mods so far.

T case skid and more trimming later on this afternoon.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
171 Posts
Discussion Starter · #254 ·
Condenser and TC skid are installed. Waiting on A.C. lines to show up and crossing fingers everything stayed in working order.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
171 Posts
Discussion Starter · #255 ·
Trail Forged Crossover showed up at 730 tonight So I got that opened up and painted so it can dry overnight. Tomorrow ill get that buttoned up as well as a new stabilizer mount.

My buddy is gonna be stretching his wheelbase so im getting my shackle relocators back and will install them and mess around with the settings. Ideally I would like to not gain any more lift but if that becomes unreasonable ill just have to toss the 4.5" coils back in and live with it. I'm really trying to keep it under 4" of lift but it doesn't make it easy with the parts I have in hand.

Ordered some rain gutter mounts and ill be throwing together a roof platform out of unistrut. I no longer have the stock rack and need something to haul the yaks around on. Ill do my best to not make it ghetto. Once that's done ill need to get the front axle some love......seals, u joints, etc and it'll be good for some trips. The next phase is gonna be a pretty costly and labor intensive step, frame plates, 2x6 rockers, cut and re welded rear fenders, some flares, bed liner.....yea......and that's all gonna be done together so I really wanna enjoy this thing for a bit before I go and have it down for a while. Also need to strip my buddies d30 for useable parts.......the list really never ends!!!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
171 Posts
Discussion Starter · #256 ·
229481

In with the new! What a Mf'er to adjust the Drag-Link for the steering wheel. Easy enough install just tedious getting it set up so the heims aren't all floppy and adjusting the steering wheel sucks. Got toe set, just need to tweak steering wheel a bit more tomorrow and it'll be donezo. Drives super nice I have to say.

Smittybilt gutter mounts showed up so tomorrow I need to grab material for my roof platform build and I'll get going on that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
171 Posts
Discussion Starter · #257 ·
229482
229483
229484
229485


Roof platform/rack is done. Took a bit longer than expected but I'm pretty happy with it. Up close you can tell it's a DIY but it's solid as a rock and was super easy. I think it was about $250 in materials, plus $150 for the smittybilt gutter mounts. Not necessarily cheap, but cheaper than any platform setup I could find. For now it's spray painted since I had to build it on the jeep, so at some point when I can get help I'll be able to take it off as a unit and bedliner it.

Off to get my A.C. charged!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
171 Posts
Discussion Starter · #258 ·
A.c. compressor tried to catch on fire. So I guess that's next on my "to do" lol.

Got bored and pulled a lower bump stop out to see how greedy I could get with up travel. I can get the 33s to hit floorboard a little at between 3/4 and full lock even with the extra trimming I did. I was suspect of it but ya never know till you try. So 3" of bump stop total should allow me to sneak 35s in there when the time comes without binding tires against anything. The rear flexs decent enough I won't likely mess with it, im sure if I played with shackle angle I could get it to droop a bit more, but honestly I don't feel it's worth the hassle of cutting for the zero lift boxes and the RC ones I have will net me way too much rear lift. Boring and pretty beat to death I know. Also finally fixed my sway bar bushings and am surprised at how much smoother the suspension moves, it's funny to think how small things all add up to noticeable improvements.
229496

229497
 
241 - 258 of 258 Posts
Top