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Discussion Starter #141
Teasers

And yea the wheels are different, the looks I get makes me wanna keep it this way when people figure it out.


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I give a :thumbsup: for the driver side and an ehh for the passenger side
 

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I vote drivers side too
 

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Discussion Starter #145
Agreed!

Now I need to figure out why my heat isn't very hot.

Blend door operates as it should, blower motor cycles and I get good air flow. Top and bottom hose to heater core are hot, top rad hose is hot-ish, lower rad is ICE cold. Temp stays around what looks like 195? Takes a while to warm up. I suspect a stuck open t stat. Heat isn't terrible, but I know my 96 could melt my shoes.

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Discussion Starter #147
Do you have a heater control valve?
Nope. The 2000 is direct to heater box. Both lines to heater core are kinda hot as is the top rad hose, not too hot to grab tho. But bottom rad hose stays cold to luke warm. I do have 3 fans so I expect the lower hose to be cooler, but not darn near ambient cool.

Noticed my temp doesn't do a climb to 210 and drop like my 96 when the stat opened, it slowly and steadily gets warm. I'm think t stat may be open. I'll try and flush the heater core as well with the hose. Seems to sit at like 180 -190 but hard to tell on this will gauge. Heat is ok at best, gets no better or worse with rpms and temp gauge doesn't move.

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Discussion Starter #149
Water pump? I have seen fins completely gone.
I know they were both replaced before I sold it.....but this was years ago

I should have replaced them while motor was out, for cheap insurance. Rookie move. I'm gonna try the t stat and back flushing the heater core first. Since they are the cheaper and easier options. I suspect it's a bit of everything.

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Water pump? I have seen fins completely gone.
I know they were both replaced before I sold it.....but this was years ago

I should have replaced them while motor was out, for cheap insurance. Rookie move. I'm gonna try the t stat and back flushing the heater core first. Since they are the cheaper and easier options. I suspect it's a bit of everything.

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My issue is the lower hose being cool. If the tstat is stuck shut it will restrict flow through the radiator, but I thought the wump had a bypass for the heater core?? But I think a flush is in order. Lord knows what kind of fluid the previous owner left in there. Are you gonna use a prestone flush, Or something like CLR? Just for all the people in the audience, I flush mine backwards too, with plain water first, to knock out all the loose stuff, then add the cleaner and let it soak for a bit. Then flush it again from both directions. The tubes in the heater core a pretty narrow and don't take much to plug up.
 

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Discussion Starter #151
My issue is the lower hose being cool. If the tstat is stuck shut it will restrict flow through the radiator, but I thought the wump had a bypass for the heater core?? But I think a flush is in order. Lord knows what kind of fluid the previous owner left in there. Are you gonna use a prestone flush, Or something like CLR? Just for all the people in the audience, I flush mine backwards too, with plain water first, to knock out all the loose stuff, then add the cleaner and let it soak for a bit. Then flush it again from both directions. The tubes in the heater core a pretty narrow and don't take much to plug up.
So I did the CLR flush directly to the heater core today. Worked perfect! I recommend this for anyone before they think that they need a heater core.

I could not tell you why that caused a cold lower rad hose, but it did. I had initially flushed it prior to reassembly, but only with water. I changed my t stat as well just to be 100%. Went to a 195*

The entire coolant system has been fresh, flushed and the coolant is nice and green. What came out of the heater core was brown junk, so it was surely not getting fresh coolant. I don't have compressed air, so I flushed it both directions with just water, blew it out with my mouth (tasted terrible) and than put a 1/2 bottle (+/- 14ozs) of CLR directly into the core. Im sure if i had compressed air it would have been possibly better results. Flushed both directions with the garden hose and repeated. The 2nd time I let it sit for a good 15-30 mins. Chunky gnarly crap came out. Heat is nice and hot, and the jeep sits around what I assume is 195-200 and doesn't move. All is well in HODGE LAND.

Adjusted sway bar end link to get a better angle, ride is improved. It was angled up entirely too much. Now it parallels the frame and isn't like riding in a YJ.

Also almost finished re trimming like you normally do for 35s. Need to pull the rear tires to bend the folds over better and paint the cuts. Didn't want to but there's no way around it. Aside from that I'm gonna try and retweak my alignment tomorrow a little more and I should be ready to rock. Brakes still feel mediocre at the pedal so I'm gonna employ my gf to pump them and I'm gonna bleed them. Gravity bleeding isn't getting me good pedal feel.

Other than that my front axle leaks again and I've given up on it. There were a bunch of things loose under neath so tomorrow is gonna be a day of double checking everything. Jam nuts on my control arms were finger tight, but wrench loose and solved the clunking i couldn't find. Overall it's about ready for a decent shake down.

Only thing that's really erking me is I have some bumpsteer but it's super inconsistent. Before I sold it I mutilated the stock axle mount so I fabbed one up in line with stock but a bit closer to the drivers side. So the track bar is a bit shorter than stock. I'm not sure what else would be causing it at this point but it's pretty agressive every once and a while with the 35s. Eh well. No pics from today as I was soaking wet and covered in grease. I'll flood you guys with jeep porn tomorrow.

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Discussion Starter #152
Looking at my terrible photo skills, I might try and raise the track bar mount up a bit tomorrow. Gonna take some measurements and see if I have room to get the nut on the back side.


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How much is your lift? Shouldn't the tie rod be almost level across the front axle?
 

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Discussion Starter #154
How much is your lift? Shouldn't the tie rod be almost level across the front axle?
Idk how much lift I'm at. Maybe 4.5".....anyone wanna compare numbers?

The steering is just a Currie upgraded stock system so it's still gonna look funny being a y-link setup. That's part of the reason I kept it lower this time around. Steering got weird quick.

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Show us some pics at the knuckle. The tie rod looks a little out of position
 

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Discussion Starter #156
Here's the geometry at ride height straight on.

So I think I vaguely remember what and why I did the changes. I had mutilated the oem axle mount for the track bar, so I ended up goin with some OTA stuff my buddy had. In order for it to work we had to lower the lower mount at the axle an inch since the frame mount has no drop to it. Worked at the 6.5" of lift, but at 4.5 the angles are off.

Using the format on the attached picture has done me pretty well aligning the front end geometry. So that is what I used. My axle side trac bar needs to raise about 1" or my frame side needs to drop an inch. Basically, if I had the OEM mount and a normal track bar setup id be good. The stock hole is still there and it's about 1" higher than my current hole.

So I have a couple options.....

1: buy an OEM replacement mount, weld it on and make sure the axle mount is raised to where it needs to be, and get a properly bent track bar to like you would normally run.

2: go OTA with track bar and steering.

Since ive gotta cut and re weld the mounts I think I'm gonna look into OTA stuff. Idk I adjusted the alignment a little today. I'll see how it handles when I take it out.


Otherwise I consider phase 1 done on this thing. Now it's fun stuff like modifying things to make it moar bettered. Also some pics post trimming


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Discussion Starter #157
Here's some pics of what I'm referring to. You can see the old OEM track bar hole hiding in the back. Angles make them look closer in height than reality. Sorry pics are tough.


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Not quite sure what is happening with the tie rod, but is hooked up correctly
 

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Discussion Starter #159
Not quite sure what is happening with the tie rod, but is hooked up correctly
Currie Currect link. Idk why it looks funny. Has never given me an issue.

So stinky fab racing has a replacement OEM style track bar axle mount. $35 so I think I'm gonna get one and fix this mount. Than ill call clayton and get a normal bent track bar, easiest to match their frame mount width that way. If I drop the frame mount anymore I will have clearance issues at the dif, so I just need to really fix this setup. I should be able to get the angles proper without much issue.

Ideally I'd like an OTA setup but I don't feel like dropping that coin right now, and this steering has no issues aside from being ugly.

I'm gonna get an alignment, I messed with the toe a bit and it made a big difference in bump steer sensitivity.

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