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Ok guys, this is my situation.....
I recently bought an 89 xj. And have since discovered that the guy I got it from has done a million things to it, that you would almost have to be HIM, to understand exactly WTF he has all done. It is an 89 limited, but has a 96 4.0l motor in it & It has a 4.5" lift . When I bought he said that he had recently replaced the tranny, so I'm not sure what that or the transfer case is. ( But for now, I'm not having any issues, there ) . He told me that it had a cracked manifold, but I was ok with that. Cuz that can be easily fixed. And when we were talking, I told him I really just wanted it to go out off roading with my 4 yr old grandson, but I'd also be using it as a daily driver to work, which is only 15 miles each way, at which point he told me. .." This is NOT a daily driver! This is strictly an Off-road Toy! And I just said....that's ok, it's only 15 miles to my work. Then before the money actually exchanged hands, he must of told me that, 5 more times. But I didnt really care, it just looked good and it was a 4x4 , and I could take my grandson all over in this desert i live in. And that has remained true. My grandson thinks I'm the coolest Nana to EVER live, cuz every couple of days, we go out exploring more if this desert. Yada yada yada...
I apologize for being so long winded, I am just trying to give a sense of who I am and why I will asking so many questions in the days or weeks coming.
Ok, now on to actual Cherokee issues......
First day I had it I noticed that after about 10 minutes of driving, thete would be a loud humming coming from the fuel tank. Even when it wasn't running, but just the key on. I'm assuming that it's the fuel pump, (because I used to own a Toyota 4x4 for many years and it did the same humming until i replaced the pump. ) And my Cherokee began to slightly sputter after 10 mins of driving, which has increasingly gotten worse over the past month to the point where I have to almost completely let off the gas pedal or it will hardly even keep driving. But with just a tiny bit of pedal, it goes fine. But if I step on it, it just backfires terrible and won't gain any speed. So what I am asking I guess , is... Coykd it be because of the cracked manifold, alone? And does rhe humming from my fuel tank, mean it's absolutely the fuel pump, and it needs replaced? And next I have questions about the vacuum lines, but I'll need to send pics for it to be understood. And I apologize if I become a pain in the ass, cuz I know that I can be. But mostly I'm just a Nana whos trying to hold up to her "Coolest Nana Ever " status. Lol and I should add that ,due to this stupid covid crap, I no longer have a job , so any possible fix that doesn't cost, would certainly be helpful. I am quite mechanically capable, I am just not very mechanically knowledgeable, about this Jeep Cherokee. Thanks in advance for any help
 

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Howdy from Iowa!

Im gonna go ahead and say the humming is your fuel pump because there isn't really anything else back there. (Gluck or 4.3L, care to verify?) Pretty good chance a couple more regular forum members will be along not too far behind me. The sputtering and dying is a straightforward symptom of a dying fuel pump. It happens.

15miles is very different in different parts of the country. 15 miles in South Dakota is nothing compared to 15 miles in eastern Ohio or other more populated areas. The PO probably has a right to some concerns, esp if he built it. That reminds me, you never mentioned how many miles are on the Jeep. Of course its different for the motor, but the fuel pump could be original. And I think that means you'll need to drop the tank to replace it, but others may have had luck by cutting through the floor. Haven't done it yet, so Im no expert there.

The cracked manifold usually messes with fuel mileage depending on where and how many O2 sensors are there. Good chance that welding it will allow it to crack again, and prob isn't worth the effort. A header or a new manifold is doable. I don't think you should be getting any stutter out of the engine because of it.

Since he was so addament about not daily driving it, you might want to check for a swaybar, front end joints, and other wear parts that wreak havoc on the street when they are worn out. 4.5" of lift is enough to make things expensive, and some serious parts are needed to be safe. Extended brake lines are a good one, a trackbar and shocks are another. Do you have any vibrations while driving? An SYE and driveshaft are usually needed over 3.5" inches. Sometimes leafspring shims. Sometimes adjustable control arms. What did I leave out fellas?
 

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Howdy and welcome to the forum. Kudos to you Nana. It's awesome that your grandson enjoys wheeling with you. We only have a few regulars on here, but they are very helpful, very knowledgeable and would never flame you for asking any questions.
I have a 96 Cherokee. It's awesome on and off road. 99 % of the mods I have done myself. Mine can be a daily driver. I didn't build a trailer queen. I like having a Jeep I can drive to the trails, wheel then drive home and not have to tie it down on a trailer. Enough about me 🤗
My 96 fuel tank has a front mount fuel pump. You don't have to drop the tank to change it. Whether the PO swapped fuel tanks when he swap the engine, might be worth asking him? If the insulating straps for the fuel tank wear out and they become metal on metal, you will definitely hear the fuel pump humming. Having a miss and it sputtering could be from the manifold. Again, did he use the ECM from the 96, I would think he almost had to. 89 is OBD I and 96 is OBD II. It could also be a heat soak issue where the fuel rail over heats and boils the fuel. Yep, that's a thing. 96 has 2 O2 sensors. I'm not sure if 89 did?? Also, do you have a check engine light on? I'm sorry I answered your questions with questions, but we need more info to give you accurate answers. If you like to read, check out the links in my signature. Lots of good reading there. And don't hesitate to use the search function, you will be amazed out what you will find. (y)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hi everyone & thanks for the replies. They are sooooo appreciated.
So...now, my next question is:
How do I know if it is heatsoak? And if it is...how do I fix it?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
NOW on To my next issue.... arent these vacuums lines, on the right of the connector, absolutely pointless if on the left side, nothing is there?
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Hi everyone & thanks for the replies. They are sooooo appreciated.
So...now, my next question is:
How do I know if it is heatsoak? And if it is...how do I fix it?
I would focus on the fuel issue, and manifold. Especially that cracked manifold, they cause problems. when mine broke it effected power, take off, and pulling power, not to mention the back pressure that motors require. And heat soak could be a direct result of that manifold, heat is escaping into the motorbay. Your fuel rail is directly above the manifold, therefore heating the fuel in the rail.
 

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If you have missing/disconnected vacuum lines, or not at all. That will definitely cause idle throttle issues. Look on the firewall for a diagram, and make sure everything thing is hooked up and verify none of the hoses are cracked and leaking. you can check for leaks by gently spraying carb cleaner or starting fluid on the vacuum lines, any increase in RPM's means a leak.
 

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I thought it was a 96 motor???
Yes you are correct, I think we need some pictures of the engine compartment. We don't know what the PO did when he switched motors. We are just guessing at this point.
 

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Ok,so....is a manifold a manifold, or is one better then another? Cuz I'm thinking about the lowest price , but does that mean I'm getting a crap one, that's just going to crack again?
 

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Be honest I went with a quadratech special, with the expanding outer joints. It was like $160.00 like 7 years ago. So... Probably like 200 now, but mine is still holding good...real good.
 

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I don't want to muddy the waters any more than I already have. A picture it's worth a 1000 words. Show us some pics of the entire engine compartment.
A cracked manifold will cause throttle and idle issues. Until the engine has reached operating temp, the ECM is in closed loop mode, meaning the ECM is using factory default settings for the sensors, and does NOT read input from the O2 sensors, but after warm up, (engine temp is above 72* F, which the ECM gets from the front temp sensor at the thermostat housing) then it goes into open loop and reads the inputs from the sensors. This is why engines run fine when they are cold and start missing and kicking and carrying on after they are warmed up. And a cracked manifold is a huge culprit.
 

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I don't want to muddy the waters any more than I already have. A picture it's worth a 1000 words. Show us some pics of the entire engine compartment.
A cracked manifold will cause throttle and idle issues. Until the engine has reached operating temp, the ECM is in closed loop mode, meaning the ECM is using factory default settings for the sensors, and does NOT read input from the O2 sensors, but after warm up, (engine temp is above 72* F, which the ECM gets from the front temp sensor at the thermostat housing) then it goes into open loop and reads the inputs from the sensors. This is why engines run fine when they are cold and start missing and kicking and carrying on after they are warmed up. And a cracked manifold is a huge culprit.
A big yes to all that, plus mine had a loud exhaust sound coming from under the hood. It was obnoxious, especially in drive thrus
 

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Ok, here is a pic of the whole engine compartment.
And Yes mine is very loud. I totally understand what you mean about especially in drive thrus. Also I wanted to ask....when I go to buy the new fuel pump, do I
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tell them it's an 89 or a 96?. I'm pretty sure the tank is an 89, ( by the way, it mounts on the side of the tank so I won't need to drop it) but if the motor is 96, does that mean I need to say I need a pump for a 96? Cuz that's where I'm going to start is with the fuel pump cuz that's about all the money I currently have.
 
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