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What in the Marlboro smokin', cowboy boot wearing, tobacca chewing, sam hill is going on in there?

WOW!,
 

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Here are some pics of my engine, in a stock 1996. well it was stock. she ain't now! In fact these pics are from 2013. Probably 4 months after I bought my jeep.
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You got a WHOLE LOTTA stuff going on in there.
What is the big red wire going across your firewall? It scares me.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I was just on eBay and they have a manifold for $ 55.00. And at that price I could afford to do it now. But I also called my local auto wreckers and they said if I wanted to remove it, I could have it for $ 40. So what are everyones thoughts on doing it that way?
 

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Discussion Starter #24
See, that's what I mean. The PO pretty much did his own thing . He even bypassed part of the wiring harness. And that big red wire is how it starts. You have to turn the ignition on, then push a button to start it. Now you can kinda understand why I'm so lost trying to do anything on it!
 

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I'm just gonna come out and say it, the PO is a twit. and shouldn't be allowed near even a barbie Jeep. Has he not ever ever heard of a RELAY!!!!!! That is just crazy. Rant over

If you don't mind the effort, the one from the auto wreckers may be worth it. You have to replace the gasket either way. chances are most of the stuff in the way will have been removed. I would check it over real good before I pulled it. Take a telescoping mirror and a flashlight, look over and under it real good. Manifold bolts can be a real pain to remove. You may spend hours trying to fight it off. and for a few dollars more you can have one for no effort at all. I imagine the one from EBAY will have shipping cost too. overall I think ebay would be the better play here.
 

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Back to your fuel pump. The 89's had a front mount pump also. I'm gonna go out on a limb here and say he never changed the fuel tank. BUT, I would check the straps first, then take a picture of the wiring connector, so you can make sure and get the right one. If you don't mind the wait. rockauto is an inexpensive source for auto parts. I have a couple orders of my own being shipped.
 

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I wouldn't do a used one, just a ticking time bomb, those manifolds are weak and prone to crack at the outer joints. I would do the eBay special if it looked to be time worthy. When I replace parts, I debate if and when if I have to replace it. I paid to have mine done the first time to avoid all responsibility for those bolts and such. Just my input
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Yes, well that's my problem at the moment is not having the money to take it anywhere and have anything done on it. I sure the hell wish I could, tho. So just to update...I replaced the fuel pump and it was definitely the problem as far as sputtering goes. It no longer has any hesitation and I got my power back.. I bought the manifold and I guess I'll see how that repair goes, in a few days. I'm hoping for the best on the bolts, but I'm certainly prepared for it to NOT goes as smoothly as I'd like. Next topic, is my front suspension. I've been dealing with death wobble off & on, since I bought it. And if course....That too, I most definitely can't afford to take it to a shop and have it fixed, cuz it will cost me 200 just fir them to look at it, I've already inquired. In the past I have asked a couple other Cherokee groups, whether or not it could be caused by shocks &/or, coil springs, and I've been told that not those alone will cause the death wobble, but when I look at my springs....my logical mind tells me that because of how screwed up they look...it very possibly COUlD be a huge contributing factor. But I suppose I could be wrong, since I know nothing about lifts & jeeps. So I'm posting these pics I just took , so you all can see why I believe my death wobble could be related. And even IF they can't be the reason for my wobble, I Positively KNOW that they aren't supposed to look like this!! And when I first got this Jeep, it was only on one side that it was bent and offset , but now the other side is becoming the same way
 

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Track bar, maybe control arms, that combination solved mine, which happened between 50-55 mph on mine, good luck you'll find it!
 

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I don't see any pics.....
DW is a fickle mistress. She must be courted accordingly. My case took years on and off, but shes hibernating for now.
Lets see your weird looking coils, but coils aren't a DW causer. Like ever.
Control arm bushings are a good start. Might have to pull them off and check em over.
Trackbar mount and bushings are probably the number 1 cause in most jeeps.
TREs can go bad and cause it.
Balljoints can cause it
Bad tires, out of balance, badly worn, or out of alignment can cause it
Worn out steering gearbox can cause it, that can be tightened a little sometimes, but replacement is a good option.
Broken steering box spacer or busted frame can cause it. Look for cracks near the gearbox up front
 

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I don't see any pics.....
DW is a fickle mistress. She must be courted accordingly. My case took years on and off, but shes hibernating for now.
Lets see your weird looking coils, but coils aren't a DW causer. Like ever.
Control arm bushings are a good start. Might have to pull them off and check em over.
Trackbar mount and bushings are probably the number 1 cause in most jeeps.
TREs can go bad and cause it.
Balljoints can cause it
Bad tires, out of balance, badly worn, or out of alignment can cause it
Worn out steering gearbox can cause it, that can be tightened a little sometimes, but replacement is a good option.
Broken steering box spacer or busted frame can cause it. Look for cracks near the gearbox up front
Yep jack up a front tire and check 12-6 Tre ends, 3-9 , ball joints, agreed with all the above
 

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I concur with the audience, so many things can lead to death wobble. Springs are not usually the culprit, but if the caster is way off, making the springs look like a banana, that could be part of the problem. We must follow the K.I.S.S. principle here. And eliminate the easy stuff first.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Yes, well that's my problem at the moment is not having the money to take it anywhere and have anything done on it. I sure the hell wish I could, tho. So just to update...I replaced the fuel pump and it was definitely the problem as far as sputtering goes. It no longer has any hesitation and I got my power back.. I bought the manifold and I guess I'll see how that repair goes, in a few days. I'm hoping for the best on the bolts, but I'm certainly prepared for it to NOT goes as smoothly as I'd like. Next topic, is my front suspension. I've been dealing with death wobble off & on, since I bought it. And if course....That too, I most definitely can't afford to take it to a shop and have it fixed, cuz it will cost me 200 just fir them to look at it, I've already inquired. In the past I have asked a couple other Cherokee groups, whether or not it could be caused by shocks &/or, coil springs, and I've been told that not those alone will cause the death wobble, but when I look at my springs....my logical mind tells me that because of how screwed up they look...it very possibly COUlD be a huge contributing factor. But I suppose I could be wrong, since I know nothing about lifts & jeeps. So I'm posting these pics I just took , so you all can see why I believe my death wobble could be related. And even IF they can't be the reason for my wobble, I Positively KNOW that they aren't supposed to look like this!! And when I first got this Jeep, it was only on one side that it was bent and offset , but now the other side is becoming the same way
Ok... Here are the pictures. They wouldn't load yestetday
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Discussion Starter #35
My wobble is right about 40-45 mph. And that's also what I wanted to know;.
So does that mean it is only going to happen at that speed? Or could it happen at any speed? Cuz I know how scary it was going I only 40, I can't even imagine how bad it would freak me out if I was doing 60 , or something!
 

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Discussion Starter #36
And there is quite a bit of play in my steering wheel. And the PO told me that it needed a new power steering pump, but maybe that was a lie, and it really needs a new steering box!?. And they are very costly. Maybe that's why he was selling it???
And just fyi.... If there is any thing that you need better or closer pics of, PLEASE let me know, because I really have no clue about any of this suspension stuff. Never really did any of that kind of repairs or replacements. I really only have any knowledge about all the rest of a vehicle. lol. But like I've said; I Am Totally Capable of doing the actual work. And any of you who are willing to walk my thru any of it, step by step.....it would be sooo sooo appreciated. More then words could express!
 

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Hey, I give a (y) for the riddler diff cover 😬

A power steering pump has zero impact on death wobble, a worn out steering box will. Some things absolutely require a helper, so have someone, slowly turn the steering wheel back and forth. Start at the Pittman arm. How much does the steering wheel move before the Pittman arm moves? Look at the TRE at the Pittman arm. Is it tight and secure? Note: dual steering stabilizers do NOT correct death wobble. Follow the drag link to the TRE at each wheel. No movement. Also look at the track bar, make sure it doesn't move when you turn the wheel back and forth. I noticed a couple other things, first the upper control arms look stock, and the bottoms after market but they could be rough country,
That big ole spacer block on top of your coils doesn't look right. There should be a small groove for the spring to sit it. Thank God the sway bar is still there, although I'm not sure why he kept it on a strictly off road rig. That's all for now, I'm trying to type this on my phone.
 

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Your track bar, is it factory? With that lift, if it's not an adjustable, or hasnt been relocated(or hole to the side, or drop bracket) it could be pulling your front axle, causing the front to crab walk. Looks to me like a front axle a bit out of tweak. Can you get your hand on it and move it at all, or have a buddy turn the wheel, you watch it, see if it pops or makes unatural movement. I ran a factory track bar with 3", but that was the max, had to go with adjustable after 4.5 lift coils, and when I changed them out, it was like the factory TB had held my front suspension back, ie the flex and such.
 

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I can feel that suspension binding just from looking at it. The pictures tell me a couple things, and I will repeat some of what Gluck and TG stated just for clarity.
1) Your trackbar isn't correct. I don't know if its stock or aftermarket, but you axle is way out of alignment. See how your swaybar link both lean the same direction in your front view? They should be straight up and down more or less. I don't see an extra hole drilled in your axle-side trackbar mount so I don't think it has been relocated, which wouldn't help you anyways since you have a significant amount of lift.
2) Control arms need to be matched to maintain a decent pinion angle. If you have long lowers and short factory uppers you will have problems. Been there, done that, bought MetalCloak adjustables to dial it in better.
3) Those dual stabilizers aren't doing anything except hiding your issues. Take them off and see how bad it REALLY is. Add a single one back once you get the issues fixed.
4) If you are worried about steering wheel slop, pitman arm movement is the perfect starting point. If the whole box seems to be moving, check for a shattered spacer between it and the frame, and when you do, look for cracks.
5) I'll agree those coil spacers are custom or for another application or something. (If you look cloase in the second coil pic from the passenger side, you can just barely see the "groove" Gluck mentioned. Its there, but the driver's side doesn't seem like it. Those coils are definitely unhappy. While coil spacers are ok, you'll find that a proper size coil will be better.

The bad news is that no matter what you find causing DeathWobble, correcting that bound-up suspension will be expensive.
Control arms can be a couple hundred depending on if you buy 2 or 4 or fixed or adjustable. A good trackbar will be $200, and tie rod ends (if one or more is bad) will add up. Steering gearboxes aren't cheap, but an aftermarket spacer can be had for less than $50 if yours is broke. A cracked unibody means drilling and welding.
 

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How'd this turn out for you? Did you ever get your manifold replaced? Saw several on Amazon warehouse, as low as 60 bucks on one, just curious about your progress
 
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