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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am replacing all A/C components with new parts, (not re-manufactured), and the heater core plus anything in the 'box' that needs repair or replacement such as doors, foam Blower and Blower Speed control Resistor etc.

Manual Heat A/C controls, (NOT Automatic or Dual).

The major problem I have is removing the &%##$$ Box!! It has been very frustratingly difficult to find out exactly what is on my Jeep that has to be removed to get the Dash and then the Heat A/C box out.

I have spent about 6 hours on it in 107° + heat and so far I only broke one tab and only drew tiny amount of blood from index finger when removing an electrical plug with a screwdriver to move the tab.

I followed all of what I could from YouTube, (better than nothing); Particularly this one:
Part 1, Part 2, and Part 3 of 1999-2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Dashboard Removal.
I have Service Manual in PDF, but, all of what I mentioned above have differences, from what I see on my rig, but for the most part, very much alike as far as ducting and mount bolts etc.

The Service Manual says to take the PCM away from in front of the firewall without unplugging any connections to get to a couple of bolts to the box... ...Did that and no bolts, nuts or anything removable there... ARRG!!

There is 1 bolt on firewall that could be attached to the box, but I would like to have a better idea of what it actually goes to before I try to remove it. It is the bolt in photo:
The one Bolt .jpg

I am sure there is crucial missing info on mounting points in the video and other videos I watched. I am thinking there must be more tabs, nuts and/or bolts that I have not been able to find.

Should I just remove the Bolt and see what is does?

 

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I feel for ya on that. I tried to take one out of a 99 and never really did get it out. But I did check my FSM and indeed there should be two nuts on studs that go through the firewall. According to my info, if you remove them it should come out
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
One Bolt, "The Bolt" in the photo; I did remove it. It may have helped, I am not sure though. I got the 'soft' part of the remaining dash completely out and out of the way. Now I am trying to figure out where to go next.

BTW, The service manual I have as I mentioned said there is a bolt through the firewall behind the PCM. There is nothing of the sort there on my 03 WJ.
 

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The one I have says that too
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Finally! Got the box out!

Next Inspection, (already know most, if not all foam replace, Heater Core and Evaporator replace.
Then the tedious, difficult, (for me, anyway), job of re-installing the box and everything else , plus all the A/C components under the hood... ...And installing a Transmission Cooler while I am at it.

Then the Trailer Hitch and a 4 wire flat wiring harness for towing trailer for now, (eventually will install a 7 pin for Battery charging and Trailer Brake Controller).. Not really planing on trailer hauling, but it's nice to be able to pull a small trailer or U-Haul if I needed to.
 

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Should be good when done. I have heard good things about Arctic Freeze. Silicone based refrigerant that will get colder than R234A. I am intending to replace my carbon based refrigerant in all my rigs with that
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I am playing it safe and going with the R134A that the shop mechanic will charge it with. I will also be using only the lubricant that came in the brand new DENSO Compressor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I have just decided to get a new DENSO Radiator to replace the old one while I have it so far apart.

Main reason for replacing is that I already had to modify the radiator drain-cock.
Out of sheer desperation I needed to make something work. The old drain-cock was essentially stripped!

The new DORMAN one, (inferior to MOPAR), has a smaller diameter O-Ring that barely seals against the drain port, (hole).

Anyway, the radiator's drain has unusual damage, (Main reason I am replacing it now), whereas the drain-cock had to be modified just to be able to get it to go in at all. The stops on the inner end of the drain-cock had to be trimmed to get it to go into the radiator.
 

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Sounds good. Radiators don't last forever
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I have gotten considerably further along with this A/C rebuild project but am now waiting for more engine parts for the 4.0.

While I have it so far apart with the front bumper and so many parts from behind the grill removed, I decided to replace more than just the A/C components.

I removed the Water Pump, which is actually in excellent condition so I won't be replacing it, and I used the a Pressure Washer and Air Compressor Blower nozzle to thoroughly flush and mostly dry the Cylinder Head and Block.... ...Which, I am very glad I did because there was quite a bit of dirty old Coolant, some contamination, lots of particulates, and some scaling that the pressure washer, after about an hour was able to remove most of; and at least another half hour of compressed air blowing to get it mostly dry.

BTW, FWIW, reaching the Cylinder Block Drain Plug with any kind of tool that actually fits the absurdly side and location of the recessed square 5/16 inch Block Drain Plug "fitting" located behind and between the 2 Cats is a very frustrating exercise in virtual futility at best...

... My recommendation to anybody that has the same situation with the 4.0 you want to drain the coolant from the block is, just forget about attempting to remove that plug and think of it like it doesn't exist at all, (you will be better off).

Instead, just remove the lower radiator hose, then carefully remove the Cooling Fans, and Shroud together as a unit, (you will pretty much need to do that if you have both the mechanical fan and the electric fan on your 4.0). Essentially, you will need to do that to make enough room to remove the water pump and have enough room to manually flush the block with a Garden Hose, Pressure Washer, and an Air Pressure Blower Nozzle.

Also, remember to put a drain pan of some sort underneath the water pump before pulling the Water Pump off of the block because there will be more coolant that will drain out.

Also, I wheel chalked the front wheels fore and aft, then jacked up and supported the rear of the Jeep with Jack Stands to tilt the front of the Engine downward to better drain the Block.

Anyway, as I previously mentioned, I will be installing new Radiator, Thermostat Housing, OEM temperature 195°F thermostat and all new A/C components, and also new Hayden 679 Transmission Oil Cooler.

Also, after further inspection, I discovered that I need, new Damper Pulley because the rubber material is hardened and has lots of cracks, the Damper Pulley itself has slight off-center wobble and is no longer properly centered with the Crankshaft. Also replaced the metal threaded Water Pump Pipe Fitting and after the order comes in. I will be replacing Timing Chain with Timing Gears Kit, Timing Cover Seal and gasket

Also, I am very glad I checked the timing chain and gears because whoever worked on it before I did neglected to reinstall the Oil Slinger on the Crankshaft between the Timing Chain Sprocket and the inner Damper Pulley!

There are probably other knickknacks I forgot to mention, but for the most part it's been quite an ordeal just replacing all the Foam Seals on all of the Doors in the HVAC Housing. That for me, Was surprisingly complicated and difficult to actually accomplish doing properly. One of the most difficult things was removing and properly reinstalling the HVAC Housing. It took me at least 16 hours just to properly measure, cut, and attach the foam pieces to the doors. Then, of course, I had to remember how to put the whole thing back together and install it. I'm glad my friend and I took a bunch of photographs of various different stages of the process so I could keep track of all, or at least most of of the details reassembling and reinstalling it.

More, with some of the photos coming soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
There is 1 bolt on firewall that could be attached to the box, but I would like to have a better idea of what it actually goes to before I try to remove it. It is the bolt in photo:

I am sure there is crucial missing info on mounting points in the video and other videos I watched. I am thinking there must be more tabs, nuts and/or bolts that I have not been able to find.

Should I just remove the Bolt and see what is does?

Yes I had to remove that Bolt.
229655
 
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