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Go get yourself stuck. Watch how one tire spins and the other side doesn't. This is called an "open differential". A locker will make BOTH tires spin 100% of the time.

Lockers are worth every penny.

If i were you and just lifted my rig, i'd get a winch and winch mounting bumper.

1: Lift/tires
2: Recovery
3: skids
4: lockers

If you have other rigs with winches to use, then swatch 4 with 2.


http://www.powertrax.com/powertrax/lockright.html
http://www.aussielocker.com/
 

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Web Wheeler
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Depends on what type of locker you want to get. There are what is refered to as "lunchbox lockers", automatic lockers and selectable lockers. The lunchbox lockers are the cheapest and work for the average wheeler. Basically it senses when one side is "slipping" and automatically locks the differential. The next step up is basically the same thing, but comes with the carrier. The best lockers are selectable lockers, but they are also the most expensive. You can engage/disengage them whenever you want.
 

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Premium Member
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$300 is the average price for a lunchbox locker (refer to links i gave you in first post)
 

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Retired Moderator
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What's the next step i should take?

What are lockers?
Honestly, if you just lifted your rig, either throw skids on it (unless you already have them) and/or go wheel it as it is.

Lockers, as great as they are, may only encourage bad habits for a novice wheeler. By having open diffs front and rear, you'll be forced to wheel technically and learn how to pick good lines that work for your rig. After you gain some experience, then throw the locker(s) on your rig and push yourself some more. I find that many people who lift and lock with no wheeling experience end up getting themselves into more trouble than anything else because they think that they're invincible. I'm not saying this is how you are, this has been my personal observation.

Also, if you have a Dana 35 in the rear, I wouldn't really invest much money into it, as it isn't strong enough to hold up to a ton of abuse. Some have had great luck with them, but many don't.

Before Lockers, I'd get skids and recovery equipment (recovery strap, recover points).
 

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Premium Member
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Go get yourself stuck. Watch how one tire spins and the other side doesn't. This is called an "open differential". A locker will make BOTH tires spin 100% of the time.

Lockers are worth every penny.

If i were you and just lifted my rig, i'd get a winch and winch mounting bumper.

1: Lift/tires
2: Recovery
3: skids
4: lockers

If you have other rigs with winches to use, then swatch 4 with 2.


POWERTRAX® LOCK-RIGHT LOCKER BY RICHMOND
Aussie Lockers: Lockers, aussie lockers, torq-masters technology, automatic positive locking differentials, automatic precision locker differentials, off road, off-road
:agree:

I don't think it matters about the winch though, you'll still need the recovery points.

What transfer case do you have? If you have Full Time 4 wheel drive, it is probally a NP242. If you don't it is probably a NP231.

You DON'T want to put a locker in the front diff if you have a NP242, as this would keep you from using 4x4 ON ROAD.

I was considering the powertrax no-slip locker for my C8.25. I've changed that to ARB air lockers for front and back. It'll be sometime before this happens though.

Some people say lock the front diff first, some say lock the rear diff first. Personally I'd go with the rear, then the front.

When you have lockers front and rear, and you put the rig in 4x4 (part time on a NP242) then basically all the tires are locked together and to the engine. Power will be sent to all four wheels (48% front 52% rear). You don't get any better traction than this unless you Jeep can grow legs and walk. :D
 

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Retired Moderator
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What transfer case do you have? If you have Full Time 4 wheel drive, it is probally a NP242. If you don't it is probably a NP231.

You DON'T want to put a locker in the front diff if you have a NP242, as this would keep you from using 4x4 ON ROAD.
Sorry Mudd, but this is slightly false. If you have the NP242, you can lock the front Dana 30, but you will lose the ability to use the Full-Time option. It will still engage, but it is bad for the axle. You will retain the ability to use Part-Time without issue, however. I will be putting a Lockright in my Dana 30 in a couple of months, and I have the NP242. Unfortunately, I won't be able to use the Full-Time option, but the return on investment is greater than my loss.

I saw you put "on road" in caps, so I think you were kind of hinting at what I said.
 

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Sorry Mudd, but this is slightly false. If you have the NP242, you can lock the front Dana 30, but you will lose the ability to use the Full-Time option. It will still engage, but it is bad for the axle. You will retain the ability to use Part-Time without issue, however. I will be putting a Lockright in my Dana 30 in a couple of months, and I have the NP242. Unfortunately, I won't be able to use the Full-Time option, but the return on investment is greater than my loss.

I saw you put "on road" in caps, so I think you were kind of hinting at what I said.
Thanks for the clarfication, that was what I was trying to say. I like the 4x4 option when it rains, so I wouldn't want anything but a selectable locker in my Dana 30.
 

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Thanks for the clarfication, that was what I was trying to say. I like the 4x4 option when it rains, so I wouldn't want anything but a selectable locker in my Dana 30.
I totally agree with that, and that is ultimately the best solution for a locker in the front for a street & trail rig. If it was a trail rig only, then it wouldn't matter as much.
 

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Honestly, if you just lifted your rig, either throw skids on it (unless you already have them) and/or go wheel it as it is.

Lockers, as great as they are, may only encourage bad habits for a novice wheeler. By having open diffs front and rear, you'll be forced to wheel technically and learn how to pick good lines that work for your rig. After you gain some experience, then throw the locker(s) on your rig and push yourself some more. I find that many people who lift and lock with no wheeling experience end up getting themselves into more trouble than anything else because they think that they're invincible. I'm not saying this is how you are, this has been my personal observation.

Also, if you have a Dana 35 in the rear, I wouldn't really invest much money into it, as it isn't strong enough to hold up to a ton of abuse. Some have had great luck with them, but many don't.

Before Lockers, I'd get skids and recovery equipment (recovery strap, recover points).
There's a lot of commom sense in this post right here. About not locking it right away, about knowing how to wheel the Jeep with just driver skill and good sense before getting a locker. Excellent advice. Had you posted before lifting the Jeep, I would have advised recovery points, skids, wheel the mess out of it for a while, then lift & so on.

Also, I have been wheeling for years without a winch & have no plans to get one. I don't miss it. Mind you, there's many advantages to having a winch, but you lose a tiny bit of lift off the front suspension and add "needless" weight. I have yet to get into a spot where a good tow strap & friends failed to get me out ... because I never wheel alone. Mud's first post pretty much spells it out; it's the way I went, & I focussed heavily on skids because I wanted (want) to protect the XJ and I already had a rear receiver.

Have fun out there!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks everybody.

I have Dana 44, front and rear with. im not sure about the transfer case.

this may sound dumb. but cant i change between part-time and full(4x4 Low) on the gearing shifter?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
also,

pics coming soon, i dont get home from work till after dark and i havent had a chance to take a picture yet
 

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cant wait to see it!
 
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