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Discussion Starter · #581 ·
Well, it isn't leaking which leads me to believe bearings. Correct me if I'm wrong. Having a shop that deals with these alot so close to me may be what i go with. Atleast have them look at it and see what they think. They said they could do the durango box when i was talking to them the other day but that'll be a bit. I figure i know what the problem is now, it's good to drive for a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #583 ·
First off, it's been too long. I finally got back in country and my jeep back from the inlaws after 6 years. It has been sitting for 2 of those years in no start condition and I have no idea what happened or when it started last or how it ran.. So I did the obvious thing; try to get it running again.

Battery was dead(obviously after years..) So i went and got a group 34 autozone gold 1000cca's. Good to go. It turns now but doesn't start..

On to next problem preventing it from starting. I checked for fuel at the fuel rail by poking the schrader valve in the fuel rail. Dry. Damn. Ok so I dead some light reading, you-tubing, and soul searching.. It doesn't pressurize the fuel rail unless I jump the relay for the fuel pump. Awesome. Bad relay, right? Nope.. Replaced the relay with a new one from autozone.

This is my current state on this jeep. Pump works with relay jumper but not with relay. It also seems to lose pressure after less than an hr.. I pulled out my old handy dandy digital multimeter aaannnnddd its corroded and kaput so I ordered another DMM that should be here today to do some checks.

Cps? Fuel pump? Neutral safety switch? I haven't pulled the plugs to check for spark yet. One thing at a time. Anyone have ideas?

Oh, and it's great to be back!
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Discussion Starter · #586 · (Edited)
Thanks guys! There are times i miss wrenching on the jeep but I wish it ran and the things i was doing is to make it nicer.. Haha. I think i found the problem with fuel.. 20 amp fuse was blown but doesnt seem to be high pressure to me. I'll have to check it with a pressure gauge and see.

On to spark! Doesn't have spark that I could tell. I checked by unplugging the 1st spark plug from firewall put a spark plug on it and touch it to the valve cover. I didn't see a spark but my wife has the better eye sight so I will get her on it.. 2 of the 3 spark plugs didn't look too good.. Could be how the inlaws drove it when they did.

I started upgrading the wires from k suspension while i was in there as well. Got the negative wires on and bolted up. Just gotta do the positive side. Did I mention it is hot as hell in Florida???
 

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Discussion Starter · #587 ·
Replaced the distributor cap and rotor since they were a bit corroded. Still no spark. Pulled out the coil pack and checked out ohms wise.. 1.0 and 12.5k ohms.. However it looked like this..
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So.. I went to autozone and got a duralast one and order the crank position sensor. It is next on my list. The checks I did on the crank sensor were off spec but not sur if it was my multimeter skills or not. And the beatings continue until morale improves..
 

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Cps needs to be Mopar. The aftermarket ones are notoriously junk. Im happy to see you getting the jeep back up and running again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #589 ·
Well, I put the new cps in (duralast) and not sure if it is doa or not.. Still no spark. I started looking at the no check engine light and got a scanner from autozone buy it has "no connection". I've seen others use this one on xj's so it should work. It has power to the obd2 outlet because it lit up the connection light here..
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I am thinking it is something in my wiring. I checked the major grounding points in the engine bay, cleaned them and bolted them back.. Still no spark or connection.
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The other thing is my cruise control light on the steering wheel stays lit. I am wondering if there is a short or ground in that wiring causing the no spark? No idea and getting frustrated. I have always hated wiring. I am going to pull the cruise control fuse. If I am reading right it is number 4 on the inside the passenger door..

I am going to try disconnecting sensors like cps, iat, tps, etc until the scanner connects in hopes of finding the component causing the no connection issue. I have my work cut out for me and with it being 94 degrees with real feel well into 100s.. I'm struggling. Any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter · #590 ·
Welp.. No luck with check engine light by changing the bulb. It looks good back there. No burnt wires or anything.
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On another note.. What is the red plug behind fog light switch for??? And yes that thermostat is right.. Over 100..
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I checked every sensor I could by unplugging it, running the scan tool and still no connection. Plugged it back in and went on to the next sensor. Should I have left them unplugged? I tried the O2 sensors, iac, tps, map, thermostat, brake booster, crank position sensor, distributor, cam sensor, etc. Anywhere in particular i should check? Where to next.. Suggestions?
 

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Discussion Starter · #591 ·
Welp. I had power on pin 16, ground on 4 and 5 of the odb2 plug. I unplugged all the sensors and read no more than .4V for 3 and 11 of the odb2 plug. I'll be honest.. I got a bit frustrated an dripped out the ecu and pryed it open like a clam that did me wrong and this is what it looked like..
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Just in case you ever wanted to see the inside.. Here you go. I didnt realize it opened like a book so i tried sliding it off at first and noticed it was hirting a piece so I was likely the cause of that broken piece. HOWEVER... There are two areas to me that definitely dont look good. They arent necessarily textbook burns but they arent right. I ordered a reman ecu from flagship one. I hope that all of this was just the ecu and i can be done but a small part of me thinks it couldn't be that easy. Until I get the ecu I am free of all the sweating like crazy in 100 degree weather! Let me know what you think about that pcm/ecu.
 

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