[KrazyInKamo]

Well, it isn't leaking which leads me to believe bearings. Correct me if I'm wrong. Having a shop that deals with these alot so close to me may be what i go with. Atleast have them look at it and see what they think. They said they could do the durango box when i was talking to them the other day but that'll be a bit. I figure i know what the problem is now, it's good to drive for a bit.

 

[KrazyInKamo]

Got my obligatory mall crawl picture finally...

 

[KrazyInKamo]

First off, it's been too long. I finally got back in country and my jeep back from the inlaws after 6 years. It has been sitting for 2 of those years in no start condition and I have no idea what happened or when it started last or how it ran.. So I did the obvious thing; try to get it running again.

Battery was dead(obviously after years..) So i went and got a group 34 autozone gold 1000cca's. Good to go. It turns now but doesn't start..

On to next problem preventing it from starting. I checked for fuel at the fuel rail by poking the schrader valve in the fuel rail. Dry. Damn. Ok so I dead some light reading, you-tubing, and soul searching.. It doesn't pressurize the fuel rail unless I jump the relay for the fuel pump. Awesome. Bad relay, right? Nope.. Replaced the relay with a new one from autozone.

This is my current state on this jeep. Pump works with relay jumper but not with relay. It also seems to lose pressure after less than an hr.. I pulled out my old handy dandy digital multimeter aaannnnddd its corroded and kaput so I ordered another DMM that should be here today to do some checks.

Cps? Fuel pump? Neutral safety switch? I haven't pulled the plugs to check for spark yet. One thing at a time. Anyone have ideas?

Oh, and it's great to be back!

 

[wjlizard]

Welcome back

 

[Gluckmysock]

Welcome back.

 

[KrazyInKamo]

Thanks guys! There are times i miss wrenching on the jeep but I wish it ran and the things i was doing is to make it nicer.. Haha. I think i found the problem with fuel.. 20 amp fuse was blown but doesnt seem to be high pressure to me. I'll have to check it with a pressure gauge and see.

On to spark! Doesn't have spark that I could tell. I checked by unplugging the 1st spark plug from firewall put a spark plug on it and touch it to the valve cover. I didn't see a spark but my wife has the better eye sight so I will get her on it.. 2 of the 3 spark plugs didn't look too good.. Could be how the inlaws drove it when they did.

I started upgrading the wires from k suspension while i was in there as well. Got the negative wires on and bolted up. Just gotta do the positive side. Did I mention it is hot as hell in Florida???

 

[KrazyInKamo]

Replaced the distributor cap and rotor since they were a bit corroded. Still no spark. Pulled out the coil pack and checked out ohms wise.. 1.0 and 12.5k ohms.. However it looked like this..

So.. I went to autozone and got a duralast one and order the crank position sensor. It is next on my list. The checks I did on the crank sensor were off spec but not sur if it was my multimeter skills or not. And the beatings continue until morale improves..

 

[XJSuperman]

Cps needs to be Mopar. The aftermarket ones are notoriously junk. Im happy to see you getting the jeep back up and running again.

 

[KrazyInKamo]

Well, I put the new cps in (duralast) and not sure if it is doa or not.. Still no spark. I started looking at the no check engine light and got a scanner from autozone buy it has "no connection". I've seen others use this one on xj's so it should work. It has power to the obd2 outlet because it lit up the connection light here..

I am thinking it is something in my wiring. I checked the major grounding points in the engine bay, cleaned them and bolted them back.. Still no spark or connection.

The other thing is my cruise control light on the steering wheel stays lit. I am wondering if there is a short or ground in that wiring causing the no spark? No idea and getting frustrated. I have always hated wiring. I am going to pull the cruise control fuse. If I am reading right it is number 4 on the inside the passenger door..

I am going to try disconnecting sensors like cps, iat, tps, etc until the scanner connects in hopes of finding the component causing the no connection issue. I have my work cut out for me and with it being 94 degrees with real feel well into 100s.. I'm struggling. Any ideas?

 

[KrazyInKamo]

Welp.. No luck with check engine light by changing the bulb. It looks good back there. No burnt wires or anything.

On another note.. What is the red plug behind fog light switch for??? And yes that thermostat is right.. Over 100..

I checked every sensor I could by unplugging it, running the scan tool and still no connection. Plugged it back in and went on to the next sensor. Should I have left them unplugged? I tried the O2 sensors, iac, tps, map, thermostat, brake booster, crank position sensor, distributor, cam sensor, etc. Anywhere in particular i should check? Where to next.. Suggestions?

 

[KrazyInKamo]

Welp. I had power on pin 16, ground on 4 and 5 of the odb2 plug. I unplugged all the sensors and read no more than .4V for 3 and 11 of the odb2 plug. I'll be honest.. I got a bit frustrated an dripped out the ecu and pryed it open like a clam that did me wrong and this is what it looked like..

Just in case you ever wanted to see the inside.. Here you go. I didnt realize it opened like a book so i tried sliding it off at first and noticed it was hirting a piece so I was likely the cause of that broken piece. HOWEVER... There are two areas to me that definitely dont look good. They arent necessarily textbook burns but they arent right. I ordered a reman ecu from flagship one. I hope that all of this was just the ecu and i can be done but a small part of me thinks it couldn't be that easy. Until I get the ecu I am free of all the sweating like crazy in 100 degree weather! Let me know what you think about that pcm/ecu.

 

[KrazyInKamo]

Ecu came in. I plugged it up without bolting it in and had my kid crank on it a few times. It has spark from the ignition coil now as well as check engine light and gen light come on initially before cranking it. Awesome! That was one of the problems it looks like. Still wont start so I'm going to look/change plugs, double check the wires are in the right order and try starting fluid. It is possibly a fuel issue now. Fuel may be gunked up in the injectors after 5 years of sitting. I had put chemtool b12 in it first thing in hopes that it'll get to the injectors and clean that crap out..

 

[Gluckmysock]

Chrysler, combustion chamber cleaner is the best stuff I have found to clean the injectors and intake. It comes in a spray foam for the throttle body, or a liquid added to the fuel. It's expensive. But it works
I know you have to get it running first but can save you some grief down the road.

 

[KrazyInKamo]

Yep. It was the ecu. I checked the spark plug wires for routing and they were off by following chilton.. Stupid book. Fire right up after wiring the spark plug wires correctly. Drove it up and got gas in it. Ac blows but not cold. The compressor doesn't engage when i turn on the ac soo I gotta do some research on where to look.

 

[KrazyInKamo]

Update. Sorry I've been bad about updating on what I have goin on. I bought an AC pro can and filled the low side. When I started, the compressor immediately kicked on so great news there. I filled it to 30 psi(it said between 20 and 50). The AC blew cold when I was filling it per my little one in the jeep. I drove it around the block and it started making a weird screaching sound and after some research everything points to overcharge ac system. I thought that was weird so I went out today and ran it for a little bit and I think it worked its way through and is good to go now but I still want to check the pressure.

In other news, I found how deep the rust went under the luggage pads on the roof.. And possibly where the water was getting in.. This past weekend I grounded down the rust and cleaned the small holes, filled it with bondo plastic metal, let it dry then rattle canned the spots I worked on. It definitely isn't perfect but it isn't leaking and isn't rusting anymore so I will call it a win.

Next up on the fix list is to check to see if it is the door creaking around corners or the steering needing to be tightened up. (It was the track bar not tight enough last time). Eventually I will get to power lock, power mirrors, and dome light short in the driver side door unless somehow the ecu replacement fixed that..

 

[KrazyInKamo]

Got around to kinda diagnosing the electric problem. I tried to turn the lights on manually with the knob. No luck. Pulled out the bulb in front and it looked alright at first so i put it back in.. Changed the fuse under the dash out because it was blown(10 amp) and voila. The rear light worked. Alright. Getting somewhere. Took the front light bulb out tested ohms comparing to a new one and it wasn't acting right and looked like it had some corrosion on it so I replaced it. Bam. Lights worked. Checked the door locks since that was on the same fuse and it worked. I opened both the doors and shut them to make sure the light turned on and off and to make sure the fuse didnt blow lime it used to before I left it 6 years ago. Good, bad, indifferent, it hasnt blown the fuse.

I checked the AC as well today with the pressure gauge on the AC pro can.. Just low side. I dont know a lot about ACs so i checked the low side before starting the jeep and it registered 95 which is super high. I turned on the AC and after a minute or two, it dropped 25-27 psi which is a little below. I'm wondering if the AC is still messed up or if this is normal to have high pressure then low after running?

 

[KrazyInKamo]

Opened the drivers door today and pop goes the fuse. 10amp at the drivers feet for dome lights and power locks. I was pulling the head unit out to hook up some rca wires and the heat sink and unit was noticeably hotter than the dash. The radio still works when the 10 amp pops so I have no idea. I thought the radio was on the same fuse as dome lights and power locks but.. The radio works anyways.

I pulled the boot for the wires between the drivers door and chassis back and it looks like there is some wear in there so I guess I am going to need to go in there and repair some wires. Maybe that will fix whatever is causing the fuse to pop?

On a different subject.. Sort of.. The lights are dull as hell, only one of the brights work, and only one of the led pods in the bumper works.. I have a kit to wire the headlights separately from k-suspension. That'll help with them being dull hopefully. I need to replace the drivers side light bulb in hopes the high beam will work and I guess replace the led pods..

I thought it was good to go, drive and act like a normal vehicle and I ordered a sub(which I was wiring up for the amp) but noooooo.. And the work continues.

 

[KrazyInKamo]

I taped up the wires in the drivers side door individually where there was wear and it hasnt popped the fuse yet.

I took the chance to wire up a headlight harness from K suspension and changed out bulbs for highs. The light looks much better. I also put the sub in and some kicker 5 1/4" speakers in the front.

Ordered new tires and wheels and put them on this weekend.

The wheels pushed out the tire compared to the stock wheels. I left the stock wheel on back for the pass side rear for pictures but it has all 4 new on now.

Progress. I tightened the steering box by just under an eighth of a turn and it is a much better steering experience. I think it needs some more adjustment but baby steps.

The AC isnt holding so I think I am going to take it to an AC shop for that since the ac pro can didnt work. Prolly needs vacuum pulled and parts.

I think that is all I have for now. I am polishing that turd. It is getting better.