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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone. first off, I want to say that I think you have a great site going here.

This update has taken me awhile to do...I've just copied and pasted from my thread on cherokee forum to get it caught up.

let me introduce myself. My name is Pat, and I'm a comanche/cherokee addict. I've got Obsessive Comanche Disorder currently, but have been known to venture into Cherokee territory.

I'm about 5 minutes from JakeWI's house, and we've helped each other out with projects quite a bit (works for me )

Anyways, as you may have guessed, I'm into comanches more than cherokees, and am an avid supporter of comancheclub.com, though I venture out a bit. I've had around 7 comanches that I've rebuilt, some of which have been sold, and another 5 or 6 that I've parted out. DD'd an 86 cherokee 4 banger for awhile, then sold it to pay for school. parted out another 4 or 5 xj's, and one WJ and one ZJ....so, I've taken these things apart (waaay more than anyone ever really should...)

Enough about me. instead, here's my rig;

it started out as a strangely equipped 1987 base model, 2wd with a 4.0 auto and factory tow package with a dana 44 rear and 3.73 gears with limited slip. A family friend owns a junkyard, and he found the truck and bought it knowing I would absolutely love to have a rust-free arizona truck. I payed $250 plus $500 in scrap for the truck.

here it is on the day that Jake and I got it (which is the same day that my other comanche got wrecked...on the way to pick this one up)



it sat in a barn in WI for 8 years, and was only driven in WI for two years but never in the winter. because of all the sitting, it did not run, and had LOTS of rats and mice in it.

so, I gutted and threw away the interior. it was all junk because of the smell. then installed a 95 tan interior with my black buckets

then I got it running (distributor was "indexed" improperly, and the fuel pump connector was corroded), and stripped the axles, suspension, and transmission out of it. I also discovered that it had been in an accident previously, and needed a bit of work on the front right inner vender, along with new hood hinges.

I had an MJ dana 44 with 4.09 gears, and a disco HP30 with 4.11 gears which I prepped and installed along with a 6.5" lift built RC coils and adj. control arms, and an RE trackbar with dodge dakota rear brake lines and YJ fronts



got the rims and tires for it...


Installed the transmission (AW4) and transfercase (NP231 with SYE) that I had from a 95 xj.

it got a TJ 4wd shifter

it has been progressing steadily. the original build took two weekends from non-running/driving to running and driving.

here it was at the GLXJ fall crawl last year



here are more picture links to it
3800 accident and new comanche pictures by JeepcoMJ - Photobucket

87 comanche lift 4wd swap pictures by JeepcoMJ - Photobucket

As for the name...I'm a huge Iron Man fan lol
 

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Discussion Starter #2
here's what the old interior looked like:

really clean floors (not a single spot rusted through)

I upgraded my CAD vacuum switch to a air-toggle switch from a semi that my dad salvaged from a wrecked rig for me. it works 10 times better with zero leaks, the canister now holds vacuum instead of leaking it out, and it even has a "safety" to keep anyone from accidently flipping it down

some other pics

front skid

front skid again

this shows the angles

transfercase skid...I painted it white

t-case skid again
rear view of the skid

front of gas tank skid

rear of skid

front of skid again


I mounted the t-case and gas tank skids with 9/16" coarse threaded grade 8 hardware and lock washers. tapped the frame rails and drilled out the holes on the skids to match.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
picked up the new motor from TNT\. genuine mopar reman... .020 bore, borla header, 62mm bored throttle body. from a 1995 xj, the motor was built in 2002 according to the tags, but only has 3k miles on it. came with all wiring (including power windows, locks, mirrors, and overhead console plus gauge cluster interior and engine wiring and computers) and headliner, and downpipe. M.O.R.E. motor mounts also were included, as well as a 90k mile aw4 23 spline from the same vehicle.

pics. stripped to just the engine, painted white. oil pan will be orange, valve cover in black with the high points sanded.






this is how clean the engine really is...look at the inside of the valve cover

valve train

painted. on to oil pan


pile of parts that need to be cleaned


I'm adding a second a/c compressor to the right of the factory one for OBA, and relocating one battery to the driver's side, and one in the bed. both will be deep cycle blue top optimas. I'm told this won't be an issue with heavy wiring, and will help ALOT with all of the aftermarket electronics (winches etc.)

I'll be getting some more done today, when I wake up. then I won't be back til this weekend from work, and I'll get the motor done then. it's getting a 1997+ 4.0 intake as well, and will eventually be stroked.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
here's the pics showing the modification needed to tube number 5 on the borla header to fit the 99+ intake

here is how close it gets to the header, and where I had to clearance it to fit


how dirty the intake was to begin with

and how it came out.







 

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Discussion Starter #5
11/20/08
got the necessary power steering bracket today, then blasted it and all of the pulleys, and modified the pump to work.

for those of you upgrading to this serpentine tensioner bracket, the only necessary modifications to the steering pump is to put a newer pulley on it, and drill out the threads in the three mounting holes. then bolt it in.

now, only one bolt needs to be adjusted in order to swap the serpentine.









everything is mounted for mockup right now.

what's left is to install the water pump with gasket and torque it to specs, clean up the intake/exhaust flanges, install them with the gasket and torque to spec, mount the p/s pump and bracket permanently, install the thermostat and housing, wire brush the distributor and install, wire brush the a/c pump and mount, remount the oil dipstick, fill with oil and prime the system, bead blast the valve cover and have it air brushed (a family friend is putting flames on it :D) then install it, install throttle body, new O-rings for the injectors.

then take it off the stand, install flexplate. from there, clean up the trans, paint the bellhousing black, install new front seal and filter kit on the trans, clear coat the transmission, and put it all back together.

the transfercase will be orange, but the SYE output will be clear coated aluminum.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
my dad is going to acid wash the borla and downpipe and clamps at work on monday for me, so I couldn't bolt down the intake and exhaust today...but I got the water pump sealed up, cleaned up the throttle body, fuel rail, injectors, and valve cover and painted them today.

here's the results.




the fuel rail is the only thing so far to get straight gloss black






I'll be putting the dizzy on in the morning, with the dipstick tube. then I'm cleaning the a/c compressor and mounting it. I'll be making tabs to permanently mount to it for easy engine removal too. it needs to come off of the stand, because the 3800 is coming in on monday to have it's engine removed. it needs to be running and driving by mid-december now since my dad's diesel is about dead. he's going to drive the 3800 while we restore the smoker.

I'm going to be working on a tractor tomorrow, and we have to re-organize the shop tomorrow and get rid of everything that's in it that can be put in the barn. then we can get all of these projects done.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
oil pan skid


have the intake and exhaust torqued down and installed...have been waiting on the freeze plug block heater to come in. picked that up on friday

so, popped out the proper freeze plug



all you need to do this project is a hammer, a punch/chisel, and a 5/16" ratchet ans short extension. I also used RTV ultrablack for better sealing.

freeze plug installed...but at that location, the plug would contact the borla, so I flipped it 180


intake, exhaust, and power steering mounted, as well as t-stat and housing. the left side and front of the motor are DONE


only thing left is to drain the oil that's in it (again), put the new O-ring on the oil filter adapter, fill, prime the system, install the distributor, and mount the valve cover. thats an hour or two worth of work, if that.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
old motor is out, new one in, engine bay almost completely done, interior half done.

pics are here:
install pictures by JeepcoMJ - Photobucket

a few of the pics to post up.
piles of parts


removal/install








M.O.R.E. motor mounts


having issues with the 95 steering column bolting up...it's dispraportionate. oh well, it will work somehow.


progress :D
 

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Discussion Starter #9
12/28/08
there are two connectors going to the rear on the MJ harness...one of them is for speakers and interior wiring such as the cargo light and dome lights, the other goes to the tail lights.

anyways, I tore the xj rear wiring apart and removed everything from the rear doors on back, then cut it all apart and removed the fuel pump connector, then swapped the two pins on my fuel pump connector to reverse polarity.

dug through my parts and found a junk 2.5 interior harness from an 89 MJ, then cut the two connectors out so I could make an adapter connector.

I'm going back outside to put the fuel pump back in it (which has proven to be an absolute **** because of the slosh tray inside the tank), then to drop in the distributor, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, starter, and battery wiring.

will be working on it until it's running tonight...I've found the two fuel pump wires in each harness so that's all I need for it to run.

12/28/08
it runs!

just not well.

I have to fill it with coolant, and transmission fluid.
then install the coolant sensor
then figure out why the starter doesn't come on when you turn the key...you have to manually start it with my plunger button right now
install the dust shield on the trans.
install the shifter cable and linkage
install PCV valve on valve cover, and figure out the vacuum system.
install coolant reservoir and connect.
install aux. fan.
wire in tail lights.
install crossover pipe.

I've just got to top off all fluids, put the proper coolant temp sender in, install the dust shield on trans, install the transmission shifter, connect the crossover pipe to the catalytic, hook up a few small vacuum items, splice the trans. control switches in, splice tail lights, aand re-install the kneeboard and center console.

oh, she sounds BEAUTIFUL while doing a peel btw :rotf:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
12/29/08
TNT said:
JeepcoMJ said:
the 95 shifter cable won't work...gotta use the one off the xj behind the barn. don't want to drill even more holes through the firewall.
Is that because you didn't use the '95 trans or because the firewall is different?
trans are identical (the one in the truck is out of a 95 also), it's just because there wasn't a hole in the firewall.

now there is...I didn't feel the need to crawl under the xj to pull the cable, plus the routing of it was kinda gay and looked tedious.


got the center console area "done", dash is "done" engine bay is "done".

what's left;

double-check fluids after first test drive.
install speedo sensor and wire (already connected, just need to swap with old cable)
wire tail lights
install aux. fan
install my aux. fan wiring harness, and fog light wiring harnesses with relays.
tie down various wires and hoses
install hood, wiper shroud, and wiper arms and blades.

then in the future wire the stereo from the 3800 into it and install the power locks, windows, and mirrors.

here's the fuel pumps. the silver one is renix, gold is H.O. they're not even close to being interchangeable.



overhead view. only thing I don't like is the blue spark plug wires


the white paint on the inner fenders and firewall really isn't that clean. not happy about that...it got oil sprayed everwhere.

need to install the hood, cowl, wipers. (and finish the wiring hanging from the mirror :ack: )

interior basically finished.

trans control panel. there is a torque converter lockup switch, 1st gear lock-in switch, and trans temp gauge.

new location of the 4x4 CAD air switch...directly between the stock center console and the remnant of the xj full center console.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
1/1/08
new OBA tank from an old Peterbuilt.



compete with stands :D. now the tool box in back is going to have to go on someone elses jeep.




1/3/09
I put 175 miles on the mj so far between today and yesterday. by the end of the day tomorrow, I should be up to 400 miles and my first oil change. it runs great, idles great, just needs the exhaust buttoned on properly (the rear pipe is ovaled out b/c it was too big, so it leaks), and all of the in-cab things such as lights and stereo installed.

I'm picking up a 91 H.O. fuel sending unit tomorrow from geonovast...trading him an xj one since he's running an xj tank in his wheeling truck. that will correct my fuel gauge issues and allow me to upgrade to the H.O. pump for a full conversion.

oh, I got bored so the center of the hood and header are black now...gonna continue this to the cowl, following the lines on the raised steel then paint the whole top black and bedline the bed right up over the rails. gonna bedline the bottom edge too most likely. pardon the bright pics.




if you look closely, you'll see the shifter extension I'm currently building. this will be a trigger-style shifter and I may consider making them. it will be alot shorter than it is currently.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
locks, windows, mirrors, woodgrain installed, cd deck installed.





 

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Discussion Starter #13
I'm hoping it goes to the second page soon so this doesn't take forever for it to load for you guys...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I couldn't find what I wanted for camo headliner within a reasonable time...so I said screw it.

still need to do the A pillars and driver's B pillar, then the center console.

those are the seats I'm running in it...I'll get camo waterproof seat covers for them eventually.

 

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Discussion Starter #15
hella cool rear bumper so far

angle shot from right before starting on the corners

close-up before starting on the corners.

steel stock for bumper corners, rock rail mounts, and spare tire mount. there's also two more 8' sticks of 2x6x3/16 for the rock rails

tool of the day...millar 110/220v plasma cutter

rear view. shitty camera sucked but you can sort of see how I'm boxing it in

side view...the extra part sticking out is part of the clevis mount.


that's as far as I got before I went with some friends to see Watchmen...awesome movie btw.

finish the main bumper tomorrow, hopefully rock rails and tire mount too.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
well the side protection isn't done yet...but the main part of the bumper is pretty much there. I just need to finish weld the back (which is towards the front lol) of the bumper, and finish the D-ring mounts.

but here's pics so far. I think it's wicked...and the ends look like coffins haha

mounts (outers) need to drill 3 more holes

right side end









here you can see my trailer hook mounts with chain to show them.. I capped a couple of 1x1 pieces then cut one side out of them, and inset them in the bumper...though those hooks are sunk in, that's still water tight, and strong (enough...frankly if my trailer comes off the hitch, I WANT it to completely fall off for my sake)




taking it off bright and early, finish welding it, do a small amount of grinding (I like the raised welds) and while the paint dries I'll put the fuel pump back in it.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Just got my edelbrock shocks!! :j:

full cherokee set of 6" edelbrock extreme travel external reservoir shocks (monotubes)
front length;
compressed....18.5"
extended....29.5"
rear length;
compressed....will update when I measure
extended....will update when I measure
comes with:
mounting hardware for reservoirs (I chose not to use their bolts for that...used them for the front shock lower bolts)
mounting straps for reservoirs
zip-tie for covers
1 large decal each shock, one small decal each set (front, rear)
the rears come with a bar pin like cherokees use in the rear. I took it out and utilized my stock upper mounts and the lower mounts I had put on. Need to bump stop rear by about 2" then do some flex tests with the thing and probably build triangulated rear mounts.

the fronts mount like stock shocks...bar pin lower, with a bolt on the upper as normal. I left that system alone. These shocks only allow around 4" of up travel, so at 6.5" I need to bump stop by about 3 to 3.5"

pics of all 4 shocks

old rough country fronts compared to edelbrock shocks

front shocks, and how I mounted them. the reservoirs will be covered by the factory splash guard to keep them from getting damaged, and the line needs to be secured. also, because I drilled through into the cab to mount the reservoirs, I will need to waterproof that part of the cab.



rear shocks and how I mounted the reservoirs. I have come down on rocks in that area before...but with the storage I'm building there, there will be a skid plate in that area to protect them.



my opinions on the road ride...

GREAT!. easily 10 times better than the rough country shocks. no more jerky ride. the rear shocks I used to have failed, so every bump would kick the arse end of the truck up in the air. not anymore. it drives like it's factory height with nice shocks...you feel the bumps, but not much. cracks in the pavement you hardly notice.

I'll post some flex info on them when I get the bump stops taken care of
 

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Discussion Starter #18
it's been a long project...and will be longer still. I have to yank the front axle, replace the axleshafts with the 95 YJ ones I got (297 joints and still disconnect), truss the axle, weld the spider gears, and drop the shock mounts about 2" plus box in anything that can be and add LCA skids to it, and building my adjustable bumpstops. hopefully have all that done in a few weeks.

this weekend I'm building my spare tire carrier, plumbing my OBA, installing the OBA tank, roll bar, and building my rock rails plus frame mounts for the roll bar (integrated for extra vertical strength on the rock rails, and tieing the roll bar to the frame).

next weekend will be when I finish the rear bumper completely by adding the side protection and reverse lights, then redoing my exhaust (it's going to come through the axle).

following weekend I'm redoing my rear shock mounts to triangulate them, and adding the teraflex boomerang shackles (with all the weight I need it to go up 1" more, and they'll give me better operating angles).

from there I just need to do the tube front fenders eventually, storage inside the bed (cut through floor etc. you'll understand when I build it), then wire wheel the floors, and POR15 them.

new tires hopefully after that. so far all of those projects won't cost me more than $100 more for paint and such.

anyways you'll see me on the trails more towards the Badlands...I don't really enjoy McCaslin since everyone is so hell-bent on going to the pipeline. the pipeline is a ridiculous waste of time...I go to wheel, not to drive on a straight-away. plus with spring thaw can't really go there anyways.

Gotta get all this done then save up for a winch...and get out to my (Grandpa's) property in Richland center...130 acres to build trails!

Joli...these shocks put your procomp ones to shame (no offense). if you have the $$$ buy them a.s.a.p. and you'll be nothing but impressed.
 
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