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However, on 90+ degree days I find myself wishing the 2001 models still had vent windows. Wonder if I can swap some in?
Well from what I understand guys can go from '96 front door setups to '97 and up in the '96 and down door.
So thinking the reverse might be true.
Cause I have thought about doing this myself.
Problem is the vent windows go for big bucks on Ebay. Plus all the other stuff you would need.
So if I ever come across the right set of doors, at the right price, I will buy them and see what I can see.
Oh but have I ever told you about my other bad idea?
I want to see if I can put a 2 door vent cargo windows in the cargo area of a 4 door.
 

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Discussion Starter #182
Diddo on wing windows, my 85 has them. My buddy, yesterday was like " could you get the wing windows here, something to think about. Totally agree on door removal, not for me.
 

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Umm are those hockey pucks in place of your bumpstops?
Nice on the end links. 👍
 

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I ordered new bumpstops a month ago and they are on backorder till end of September.
 

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Discussion Starter #188
That's no good, I picked those up in the Amazon warehouse for like $16, it was amazing. I installed them when I put in the new coils
 

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I used hockey pucks like 15 bucks on Amazon

Sent from my Z982 using Tapatalk
 

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I have hockey pucks on the bottom. I just wanted something a little softer at the top to absorb full stuff!
 

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Discussion Starter #191
Heater valve bit the dust, left me stranded. What a pain over a $20 part. Was thinking of buying two Barb's to keep in the rig. So next time I can just Chuck that thing out, connect straight to the heater hoses, run it open thru the heater core and call it good to get me home. No biggie new one in prob fixed
228138
 

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i eliminated mine. just ran everything straight through the heater core. without A/C You will cook in the cab.

So, I replaced mine a few weeks ago. made a huge difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #193
Omg, electric gremlin at work!!! Ok, back up. My driver's side door is jammed, have kicked it, pryed it etc. No success. Ok the other day I bounce up a really steep bank, I suppose it has bumped that door semi open, overhead light is stuck on, including my acc light on my ignition switch, I pulled all bulbs. Hope that kills my drain, I gotta get this door open or figure something out. Last 2 days Jeep battery dead. Ugh,
 

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Sprayed lube in the key hole and lock? If you don't get the door open, you may be able to wedge something between the door and the switch that turns on the lights, etc. Would at least preserve the battery. Out of curiosity, how are you getting in? Bo Duke window style or climbing over the center console via the passenger side?
 

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Discussion Starter #195
Climbing thru via passenger, I'm pretty small and short, like a ninja. I'd break my neck duke style, I'd have to call it a paratrooper jump.it did this once before, and this she-ra girl I knew got pissed and jerked it open.
 

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Did you pop the hood and disconnect the battery?
My drivers side door, (manual locks) does not like to unlock with the key, I have to move it to lock then unlock a couple times before she finally unlocks
 

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Discussion Starter #197
Ok, more info. Auto windows and locks, oh did I mention the tip of a key is broke off in there, far enough cant reach it. I'm not so sure now that is what it is, was playing around with it can get overhead light to go out with opening/closing the hatch, however the acc light on the ignition stays on, took out that light. Still dead battery in the morning. Ok, reworked the ground cluster at the dipstick, checked the firewall/engine, then the battery terminals. My neg that connects to the fender is holding on by half, maybe that is it. Still can't figure out the light deal
 

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Discussion Starter #198
Ok, what started this deal is I hit a steep little hill, passenger side took most of it( driving along and weep it) going about 15-20, I don't remember. I wonder if my battery bounced about enough to do something screwy, ideas? Yes my battery was not secured, no go. Something I've already rectified.
 

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And now Im confused.

Current problems and behaviors:
-door not opening
-battery draining overnight
-key broken in door lock
-lights stuck on
-door maybe partially open?

Possible solutions:
-lube all door locks with liquid graphite.....or wd40 or fluidfilm work too.
-replace battery
-rub a magnet on a slender piece of metal and insert into the lock, hopefully extracting the broken key piece. If you break a bone and the docs leave a fragment in you, chances are your joint wont work right, so why leave a broken piece in a lock that does the same?
-Alternative option: carefully use a small pick to extract the broken piece


Questions:
  • Are there arcing marks on the underside of the hood where the battery terminals would have made contact with the hood?
  • Any fuses blown after that incident?
  • I need a better description of your hill incident, I'm not sure what exactly you are describing or what "weep it" means...
  • How old is the battery and is it worth replacing for peace of mind and to eliminate a variable in your electrical problems?
 

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Discussion Starter #200 (Edited)
No confusion, door has been stuck for a while, key broke off even longer ( door worked after that) door stuck after. No arching, still have all the factory felt under the hood. No blown fuses. To "weep" it means going down the road, and making a random turn. My case up a steep ass bank.
 
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