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Discussion Starter #201 (Edited)
Oh, battery good, I have a charger that tests battery, alternator all that crap. Oh yeah, it's a slow leak, I can drive it around all day, kill it, be in a store for an hour or two, come out crank it, good. It just won't make it overnight
 

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Not sure about your XJ keys but pretty sure they are brass so the magnet trick won't work....
 

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Discussion Starter #203
The key had been in there, door has been stuck. Issue not happening until I flexed the heck outta this thing last week,and it has pulled something loose.no electric prob until then. I think the key is a real minor detail, consider it opened with it broke in there forever. It didn't jam until the plastic around the C lock or whatever it's called started coming loose inside the door jam. I think that's what's holding the door. But the deal is, I DO NOT think it's the door now cause I can get the overhead light to go out. It is draining somewhere, what else could suck it?
 

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There are several tricks to finding a parasitic draw. Since yours dies overnight, I am thinking the draw is in the 1-3+ amp range. The quick and dirty way to narrow down the circuit is to pull the positive cable off the battery, stick a test light in series with the + post on the battery and the positive cable. if the draw is big enough it will light the test light. Then start pulling fuses til the lights goes out. that will tell you what circuit is the culprit.

If you have a clamp on amp meter, stick it around the positive battery cable while its still connected to the battery and with everything electrical turned off. a parasitic draw will show in amps on the meter.

With a standard VOM (Volt Ohm Meter) they usually can handle amps up to 10. without knowing exactly how many amps are being drawn, you can kill a cheap amp meter if you go over 10 amps. But in order to measure amps, they have to be connected in series. You would connect it just like the the test light. Disconnect the positive on the battery and set the VOM to amps, some meters have a separate lead port for amps. connect the VOM negative lead to the + battery cable and the VOM positive lead to + post on the battery. Make sure no doors are open everything electric is turned off & the key is out of the ignition. 2 dome lights will draw in excess of 10 amps. start pulling fuses in the PDC til the amps drop. this should tell you what circuit is to blame. If draw is still there, start pulling the fuses under the dash.
Good Luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #205
Thanks gluck, good thinking. This is the more exact advice I was seeking to single it out. I've knocked something loose, this will be more exacting to the area I need to focus on.
 

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I'm pretty savvy when it comes to wiring, let me know if I can be of any more help.
I helped a southern lady over the phone retrofit newer taillights into an older cherokee since she could not find a harness for her specific model.
We are here to help.
 

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Discussion Starter #207
Wow, a miracle. She started on her on this morning, and a strong start at that. Wtf, I know I'm still losing. Tried putting the bulb in overhead, won't go out, hatch trick don't work out nothing. With your advice Gluck, and a video on bleepin Jeep parasitic battery leaks.
I've got a good idea where to start and how to do it. Thanks I'll let you know where it goes.
 
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