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Be very careful when removing the center bolt. The springs are under tension. The easiest way would be jack up the jeep with Jack stands under the frame. Then using a floor jack to jack up the axle to where it just about lifts the jeep off the jack stands, pull the wheels, remove the U bolts and loosen the center pin. SLOWLY lower the floor jack and just when the center pin starts to get tight, loosen it the rest of the way. Now be careful cause the axle is just kinda floating on the jack. Then slowly let it the rest of the way down far enough to get the center pin out and the lower spring. Insert the S10 spring and reverse everything from there.
 

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Good point Gluck. What you refered to is called snap. Usually, there is only about 1/8" snap between leaves in a pack. I use a couple of C clamps when I do it. Also you will need a new center bolt. Make sure they are real center bolts. They are soft and made for the purpose. Using something like grade 8 hardware for this will insure the bolt will brake at some point
 
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An observation from a newb and hoping I'm not stepping on any toes here, or at least not too hard.

That compound curve in the leafs is wrong for a new buy / install. So far in this thread everyone agrees with that.

The OP lists this . . .
"It’s IRO 3.5” packs, IRO 1.5” Boomerang shackle, Iron Man Shackle Relocation Brackets."

The next line is from IRO saying what the problem is . . .
"I reached out to IRO and they think it’s caused by the relocation brackets and recommended removing them."

Only 3 items are on the list. The vendor's solution is removing the only product they did not provide.

Maybe a significant purchase shouldn't have to go thru multiple fixes, time, labor, and additional purchases to make it right?

I don't know about this stuff. Just seeing red flags I would see in any business transaction.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
An observation from a newb and hoping I'm not stepping on any toes here, or at least not too hard.

That compound curve in the leafs is wrong for a new buy / install. So far in this thread everyone agrees with that.

The OP lists this . . .
"It’s IRO 3.5” packs, IRO 1.5” Boomerang shackle, Iron Man Shackle Relocation Brackets."

The next line is from IRO saying what the problem is . . .
"I reached out to IRO and they think it’s caused by the relocation brackets and recommended removing them."

Only 3 items are on the list. The vendor's solution is removing the only product they did not provide.

Maybe a significant purchase shouldn't have to go thru multiple fixes, time, labor, and additional purchases to make it right?

I don't know about this stuff. Just seeing red flags I would see in any business transaction.

Cheers
Here’s the best part. On their website for the leaf packs, it stated that due to their springs being longer than stock they would require a longer shackle or shackle relocation brackets. Hence why I went down the road of the relocation brackets, especially after researching their advantages.

I pointed this out to IRO rep, and was told that was an old note that should have been removed, since their engineers have been noticing relocation brackets putting stress on the leaf springs and causing this issue. As a result we worked out an agreement that I’m good with, and they removed the relocation bracket portion of the note from their website.

Now I’m just waiting on a different company to get bushings in stock for them to ship out their leaf packs to me to replace the IRO saggy set.

Don’t want this to be an IRO bash thread, as I’ve had good experiences with them in years past, and am very happy with their other products on my rig (coils, long arms, armor, etc). Just wasn’t pleased with their leafs at all. Glad we were able to work it out in the end though.

Now hoping the next set I try will have better results.


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👍👍👍
 

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I'm curious as to what product you replaced it with? I've done 4.5" with OME kits and older rubicon express, now I removed an overload leaf from my 3.5" OME kit and I'm around 3" with a bit flat overload leaf- and there is no curve or bend in these like the IRO, kind of curious
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
I'm curious as to what product you replaced it with? I've done 4.5" with OME kits and older rubicon express, now I removed an overload leaf from my 3.5" OME kit and I'm around 3" with a bit flat overload leaf- and there is no curve or bend in these like the IRO, kind of curious
I went with BDS 3” pack, although their bushings are currently backordered so waiting on them to ship before I swap them in.


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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
I already like how these new springs look in comparison. Hopefully they settle better once installed.



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You have a fundamentally different spring here. This is a two stage spring as opposed to a single stage spring. They ride better, but can still support the weight as the bottom leaves come into play. I run a bastard pack that is set up like this and works well for me
 
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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
You have a fundamentally different spring here. This is a two stage spring as opposed to a single stage spring. They ride better, but can still support the weight as the bottom leaves come into play. I run a bastard pack that is set up like this and works well for me
Good to know. I’m curious to see the height comparison once installed.

IRO pack is 3.5”, but not sure if the sag issue changed that.

BDS is 3”. Not sure if they run tall or not, like RE does.


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It is hard to tell okn a two stage spring. The mathematics are much more complicated. You have to start doing calculus for that
 
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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
BDS springs look good to me!

Ride height is about the same as the other springs. The ride itself is much cushier and smooth, less stiff than the old ones.

So far, so good.




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Sounds good. Those two stage springs always ride better
 
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First scrap that axle and start over, way too much headache, dana 30 is weak and a waste of money. If tour gong through that much trouble just get a differnt rear end. Those are scrap .
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 · (Edited)
First scrap that axle and start over, way too much headache, dana 30 is weak and a waste of money. If tour gong through that much trouble just get a differnt rear end. Those are scrap .
Dana 30s are Front axles. If you’re thinking of a Dana 35, this is a Corp 8.25 axle. I’m good with it.

Not sure how an axle swap would remedy sagging springs anyway. ???



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First scrap that axle and start over, way too much headache, dana 30 is weak and a waste of money. If tour gong through that much trouble just get a differnt rear end. Those are scrap .
Like the man said brother, its only leaf springs that are getting done. I could see your point if he were repairing an issue with the differential, but being that it is a c8.25 your comment is a bit off base. Take your time, learn a bit from this site. We members have lots of knowledge to share.

And FWIW, there's a few members who have regeared the D30 front and are running it locked on 35s, myself included. Will it break eventually? Yes, but its good enough til I get the D60 and 10.25 combo i have chilling ready to rock.
 

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Never broke my locked 30 either, but like Quick I have other axles ready to go. Shoot, I never have broken my locked D35 either, but that doesn't mean it can't be done from a lapse in judgement
 
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