AC question I cant answer but the clunk is your rear DS. The slipjoint needs to be relubed and your problem should be solved.
Noob question: 2001 Sport
I met this vehicle about a year ago, and I'm impressed with the stoutness of it. This motor is strong. On to the queries. The A/C is non-functioning after I charged it this spring. It held for the summer, but no longer. I know this is a lazy question, but is there a weak link in this system? I can't find a leak under the hood, is it the evaporator that I'm thinking I need to look at, under the dash?
Part 2 is this clunk that you can feel just before coming to a stop, and then again on takeoff. This is intermittent, and I can't quite isolate it, seems to be coming from the rear-end. This is all on a stock 4 -door Sport with 116k miles, automatic/I6. Aand as always, thanks in advance.
Greg
Part 2 is this clunk that you can feel just before coming to a stop, and then again on takeoff. This is intermittent, and I can't quite isolate it, seems to be coming from the rear-end. This is all on a stock 4 -door Sport with 116k miles, automatic/I6. Aand as always, thanks in advance.
Greg
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My mechanic said the "O" rings on the AC lines are good for about 2 to 3 years, then they need to be replaced.
I used some "O" ring and stop leak for AC systems. My system won't hold factory pressure but the AC works just fine. The little temp gauge I have stuck in the vent reads 38 degrees!
The fix would be to replace the "O" rings, but I was advised to replace the lines. We did this on my wife's 96 Mustang. The compressor started leaking about 6 months later, so we replaced that. Since then (about 3 years) it has been running great.
Most places will only do the whole thing for $1200. lol The lines were ahhh $180, and the compressor was $250 for the Mustang. I spent another $150 for labor (I think).
If you had a vacumn and some AC gauges you could do it all yourself pretty quick and easy. I just get the stuff and let my mechanic do the vacumn and refil.
I used some "O" ring and stop leak for AC systems. My system won't hold factory pressure but the AC works just fine. The little temp gauge I have stuck in the vent reads 38 degrees!
The fix would be to replace the "O" rings, but I was advised to replace the lines. We did this on my wife's 96 Mustang. The compressor started leaking about 6 months later, so we replaced that. Since then (about 3 years) it has been running great.
Most places will only do the whole thing for $1200. lol The lines were ahhh $180, and the compressor was $250 for the Mustang. I spent another $150 for labor (I think).
If you had a vacumn and some AC gauges you could do it all yourself pretty quick and easy. I just get the stuff and let my mechanic do the vacumn and refil.
Mine does this occasionally. I don't recall seeing a slipjoint on the rear driveshaft. I have one on the front drive shaft.AC question I cant answer but the clunk is your rear DS. The slipjoint needs to be relubed and your problem should be solved.
Slip yoke? Where the DS connects to the tcase.Mine does this occasionally. I don't recall seeing a slipjoint on the rear driveshaft. I have one on the front drive shaft.
my evaporator has a leak in both my cherokees (95&97)
Delayed answer
Thanks for the replies. I still like this Wide Wide World of Web. New baby limits online time. I'll be back...
Thanks for the replies. I still like this Wide Wide World of Web. New baby limits online time. I'll be back...
The clunk could be one of the u-joints in the rear drive shaft. Chryslers are notorious for leaking evaporator cores.
Look forward to seeing you around:cheers:Thanks for the replies. I still like this Wide Wide World of Web. New baby limits online time. I'll be back...
Congrats on the baby. :thumbsup:Thanks for the replies. I still like this Wide Wide World of Web. New baby limits online time. I'll be back...
Lube the rear driveshaft. Do that by unbolting the 4 little bolts at the axle end and then slipping it off at the transfer case end. Shove lube inside that hole and all over the splines and then re-install. The clunk should be gone, unless it's something else. I have the same year and jeep and had this exact same problem.
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