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Discussion Starter #1
anyone know where to order a decent Nv3550 5sp for an xj 2000 an are there any upgrades that can be do to make it tow 500 to 600lbs better plus the weight of the passengers plus jeep i don't care to do 70 on the freeway just want less stress ???. I don't want a bigger motor but if I do what changes would need to be done for a 4.3 v6 ???
 

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For towing and such you probably need to thing about changing differential gear ratios. An easy option is to use the whole rear and front axle out of a 97 and up auto tranny XJ. You have 3.07s now and that would be 3.55s. That is the easiest and cheapest
 

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Discussion Starter #3
??? What is the difference between 3.55 an 4.56 gears an what would be better i plan on running a 31 to 35 in later future but i have read 4.10s would be better 4.56 is being offered on offer up with Detroit locker brand new in box for a stock dana30 ???
 

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Your posts give me a headache lol. Its all over the place.
You need to narrow some of your options down and do some research to decide what you want. It makes answering questions a little easier if we know what you want to do. Often we suggest you drive a Jeep in some configuration to get a good idea of what it will do after jumping to larger tires or gears. Any local friends with larger Jeeps you can test drive?

There is a big difference in 3.55 and 4.56 gears. Performance will all be dependent on drivetrain and tire size. Assuming stock drivetrain, 3.55s need to be thrown out if you are going to larger tires, period. 4.56s are great for something like 35" tires on a stock drivetrain. Your other threads are talking about a larger engine so more power means you arguably could keep a numerically lower gearset. But do not need to, esp if you plan on hauling/towing.

4.10 is better for 31" tires. Anything larger than that means you need 4.33 or 4.56 gears. Bigger yet puts you into 4.88 territory.
 

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Don't forget he has a standard tranny with only 14% overdrive. But more specifically you need to choose a tire size you are going to go with first. That will determine how much lift and what gears you will choose
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Your posts give me a headache lol. Its all over the place.
You need to narrow some of your options down and do some research to decide what you want. It makes answering questions a little easier if we know what you want to do. Often we suggest you drive a Jeep in some configuration to get a good idea of what it will do after jumping to larger tires or gears. Any local friends with larger Jeeps you can test drive?

There is a big difference in 3.55 and 4.56 gears. Performance will all be dependent on drivetrain and tire size. Assuming stock drivetrain, 3.55s need to be thrown out if you are going to larger tires, period. 4.56s are great for something like 35" tires on a stock drivetrain. Your other threads are talking about a larger engine so more power means you arguably could keep a numerically lower gearset. But do not need to, esp if you plan on hauling/towing.

4.10 is better for 31" tires. Anything larger than that means you need 4.33 or 4.56 gears. Bigger yet puts you into 4.88 territory.
Thank you for you answer an many of the ??? I have asked have been ??? On my mind i.ve ran 38 super stampers on my high boi when I was 18 ever since then i.ve known how to turn a wrench but never ask the right ??? Never thought to ask ??? What this does or ment for.The set up I would like 4.10 gears Detroit locker front an back dana 44 or dana 60 4.5 to 6in lift nothing to high as i.ve been doing my research spacers. The reason I say 31s is just to start out with untell I'm ready for bigger tires. No one I know goes 4 wheeling mostly all hunters so really im the 1st to build a awesome project. Hunting i wanna get back to places my full size can't get to camping an something I really wanna try is wheeling threw the snow. I am very thankful for all the ??? I have ask
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thank you for you answer an many of the ??? I have asked have been ??? On my mind i.ve ran 38 super stampers on my high boi when I was 18 ever since then i.ve known how to turn a wrench but never ask the right ??? Never thought to ask ??? What this does or ment for.The set up I would like 4.10 gears Detroit locker front an back dana 44 or dana 60 4.5 to 6in lift nothing to high as i.ve been doing my research spacers. The reason I say 31s is just to start out with untell I'm ready for bigger tires. No one I know goes 4 wheeling mostly all hunters so really im the 1st to build a awesome project. Hunting i wanna get back to places my full size can't get to camping an something I really wanna try is wheeling threw the snow. I am very thankful for all the ??? I have ask
But I plan on running stock axles untell I get to these points. But I figured start with trasnfer case 1st tranny 2nd run the engine untell something goes wrong. 3rd lift kit/drive shafts 4th 4.10 an locker hows that sound
 

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Unless you intend to do a lot of rock crawling, the transfer case you have is adequate. But I would recommend a slip yoke eliminator kit. There is a range of prices, but I would go for the full kit. Advance adapters is on the top end and hackntap on the low end
 

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You should keep the factory axles until you know what you want to do or find out you are breaking them. No reason to get into all the fab work in a 1ton swap unless you are actually breaking parts and needing something stronger. You will be amazed what you can do with a built dana 30 and Chrysler 8.25. And parts for them are cheaper than 1 ton stuff.

Also, if you want to fit in places a fullsize wont, you need to be narrow, meaning a dana60 is out of the question. The moment you do a swap like that, you are just as wide as a full size truck and can't follow the regular jeeps on the trail. At least in my part of the country.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I understand cromoly shafts are very good is 27 spline or 30 spline better an is there a locker that can be installed in a dana 30 no air locker or tru trac just a regular or skool Detroit locker ???
 

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Ok, stop. You definitely need to do some reading. Start reading build threads here or using the search function and researching axles, build options, tire sizes, lifts, and all the work that goes along with that. The Jeep Cherokee is not a truck, you can't really just slap an axle in and put some big tires on. The unibody means it all has to be suspension lift, and that means brake lines, trackbar, swaybar, driveshaft, sye, and more have to be addressed or replaced. The driveline swaps you are kicking around mean even more work to make all the parts cooperate.
You probably know some of this, but it needs to be said for all newbs to the XJ offroad world. I wish someone had told me when I started.
If you haven't really been wheeling, then you don't have a good understanding of what your jeep is capable of as it sits. Going alone is not a good choice, so grab a buddy and their rig and find some trails to see what you can and cannot do. If you break, then you know you need something stronger, and thus have a better idea of what your ideal build will be. Chromoly axle shafts are great, but not always necessary. An 8.25 is one of the factory rear axles that went in the XJ. A Dana 35 was another and also the Dana44 in some early models. Ditch the 35, but either one of the others will hold up to 35" tires, more if you build it out.

Heres some links to get you started:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yes I know break lines slip yoke eliminator lifts yeah I pretty much know where I'm going thats WHY ITS CALL ???
 

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You need to google "lunchbox locker" and read up on Spartan, Aussie, TorqLocker, and other ratcheting locker options for axles. I run an Eaton TruTrac in my front, and its better than the spartan I have in the back, esp for on-road manners.

A detroit locker is not a whole lot stronger than a lunchbox locker and in factory axles, you will break many other parts before any of the locker options I listed break.

As spline counts go, more splines are better, but your factory axles will have 27 or 29 splines, and the differential has to match.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I.ve broke down almost lost digits from come alongs got stuck got out been in back country my hole life my first rig was a high boi f250 on 38in swampers. You godda start somewhere an i think i.ve done a good job thank you for your guidance
 

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Unless you are made of money, do some reading about budget mods and go from there. The 8.25 rear end you have has 29 spline axles, unless someone has changed it out. You will not need those axles unless you go above 35" tires. The axles you have are alloy axles, they just don't have as many exotic alloys as the expensive ones. Detroit lockers are nice, but I haven't been able to try mine out yet to be able to compare it to a lunch box lockers which have served me well for years. But while I have a Detroit in the rear axle I just built, the front is getting a lunch box at least for now. But as I said, pick a tire size and build for that otherwise you will be doing stuff over
 

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My current set up is a Dana 30 front and 27 spline c8.25 (29 spline on 97 and newer) and 35" tires. I wheel it.
Spartan lockers front and rear. Chromoly front axles. 4.56 gears. NP 242 tcase with a hack n tap sye. Mid and rear frame stiffeners. 4.5" RE lift, cut fenders and napier precision flares. Azzy tcase shifter. This setup works great for me. I wheel on the weekends. Mud rocks hills water.
 

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Sean, whats your budget looking like for this build? Sounds like you got a lot you wanna do to the jeep being that its an overland vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Its decent I looked in to getting an 8.25 got a guy for a np231 an gonna order a trasnsmission all in that order figured I can either run the motor untell it breaks. Did some hunting to find the xj. A elder baby it so it has 209.000 miles but as I looked under it an there's oil everywhere. So everything needs to be done my biggest problem is thinking I can do it all in once. So imagine start with the trasnfer case 1st then axle 2nd engine last.
 
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