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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
Don't get me wrong I would like to do some wheeling. It's gonna be a full time all time 247 suv I just needed guidance on what to do. My biggest concern is it being able to handle when I do hit the trails or snow wheeling. Because I don't have buddy's who go wheeling or hunting I've been hunting since I was a baby so pretty good in the back woods an I've been stuck Anuff times to understand what I can do an what I can't do.
 

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Engine would probably be fine if you address the leaks. Typically the rear main seal leaks, then the oil pressure sensor is another culprit. Valve cover gasket too. Do a good tune up and if the engine runs fine, I'd leave it. Save some money to build a stroker if you want some more power.
 

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Somewhere on this site they have a list of different builds you can do. Each of varying costs, some options are cheaper than other and it can be a mild build, meaning more reliable with a little boost in power.

If you want great help on obtaining quality parts, find Russ Potenger over there, busy man but will respond in a timely manner.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
You should keep the factory axles until you know what you want to do or find out you are breaking them. No reason to get into all the fab work in a 1ton swap unless you are actually breaking parts and needing something stronger. You will be amazed what you can do with a built dana 30 and Chrysler 8.25. And parts for them are cheaper than 1 ton stuff.

Also, if you want to fit in places a fullsize wont, you need to be narrow, meaning a dana60 is out of the question. The moment you do a swap like that, you are just as wide as a full size truck and can't follow the regular jeeps on the trail. At least in my part of the country.
So is what I would be looking for in a 8.25 with 3.55 gears???

Item description
"Remanufactured Complete Rear Axle Assembly (RAA435-1566B) by Zumbrota Drivetrain®. Gear Ratio: 3.55. Type: 8.25" Ring Gear. Complete Axle Assemblies are rebuilt to the highest quality standards of precision and reliability. Each assembly is inspected for straightness, cracks, and surface wear. Internal components are inspected and tested; including ring & pinions, internal gears, clutches, and carriers. Bearings & seals get replaced. Gears are fully inspected for optimal tooth contact patterns and correct rolling torque using inch pound measurements for precise setup and longevity. Correct gear backlash is set to ensure proper gear lubrication and quiet operation. Axle tubes are inspected to ensure OEM standards of straightness."
 

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3.55 are stock ratio. If I'm buying new axles I would go at least with 4.10. Cherokees don't need to run 110mph. The higher ratio helps with torque and easier on drive train. Especially if you are thinking 31" tires.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Yeah my budget isnt that decent it would be nice. ??? couldn't I upgrade the ring an opinion to 4.10 in the stock axle of the chrysler 8.25
 

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Yes you can
 

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If you're really lucky, you could find a 4 cyl xj with non abs and it would have 4.10 gears. No need to pay someone to set em up for ya, just clean it up and go.
 

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Yeah my budget isnt that decent it would be nice. ??? couldn't I upgrade the ring an opinion to 4.10 in the stock axle of the chrysler 8.25
Yes. But remember, what you do in the rear you have to do in the front.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Would they bolt right in. Because i figured the gears are in place gonna put in the shafts and redo the drums along with breaks. This is going to be real awesome because I know I can do the work an i have the time. I want something know i put together. Just don't wanna be a guy on a trail that knows how work on something
 

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So for if I have 3.55 in rear the same must be infront can a dana 30 handle a 3.55 ring an opinion
Lol. I don't mean to laugh, but 3.55 is stock in millions and millions of jeeps, it has basically been jeeps go to ratio for eons! So if you have a 4.0 with an auto trans, pretty sure you already got 3.55. 4 cylinder and manual trans are generally when you see a change.
Be warned! Changing gears in a diff is a highly technical job that requires LOTS of patience and some specialty tools. It's not a beginner job.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
I understand where you are coming from only thing that needs to be known is what i need to handle 31s. Im not gonna climb a mountain right now may be later. I want to be able to hit the snow an some mild trails nothing to heavy an able to climb out of some sand when i hit the beach with a 5ft trailer. Beside that road worthy without breaking shafts or gears. That is where I would like to be. Last aussie or spartan lockers along with a m8000 thats the goal
 

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With a 5 speed, 3.55s is the way to go with 31s
 
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With a 5 speed, 3.55s is the way to go with 31s
What what? Don't the manuals have different ratios that benefit from steeper gears, or is that just the 4cyl models?
What Im saying is for an auto, 4.10s are the ratio for 31s. Wouldn't it be the same, or even 4.56 for a manual? This thread makes my head spin lol.
 

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What what? Don't the manuals have different ratios that benefit from steeper gears, or is that just the 4cyl models?
What Im saying is for an auto, 4.10s are the ratio for 31s. Wouldn't it be the same, or even 4.56 for a manual? This thread makes my head spin lol.
I have a manual and 3.55s right now with 33s, 4.10 would be perfect, even 3.73 would be nice. Stock manuals come with 3.07.
 

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I understand where you are coming from only thing that needs to be known is what i need to handle 31s. Im not gonna climb a mountain right now may be later. I want to be able to hit the snow an some mild trails nothing to heavy an able to climb out of some sand when i hit the beach with a 5ft trailer. Beside that road worthy without breaking shafts or gears. That is where I would like to be. Last aussie or spartan lockers along with a m8000 thats the goal
We've come a LONG way from replacing the entire power and drivetrains to what you said above^

As I read that, we are now full circle back to stock engine, trans, 31s, and very very mild wheeling with mainly daily driving. That kind of build needs a hell of a lot less work, time, budget, etc compared to a 1-ton swapped trail monster.

Sounds like you are looking at the following:
-rear lunchbox locker (Even only installing 1 traction aid vs both will be a huge addition to your jeep and will greatly affect drivability on and off road.)
-31" tires (meaning minimal lift and clearancing the fenders)
-minimal lift (3" or less), so you may or may not need an sye and new driveshaft, this will all be made clear if you read up on the budget mods thread I posted for you earlier.
-leave axles stock, no need to beef anything up or regear until you get larger tires or are seriously lacking power for some reason.
-winch, always a good idea, esp since you've made it clear you wheel alone and not in a group
-anything else is just gravy
 
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