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I have a manual and 3.55s right now with 33s, 4.10 would be perfect, even 3.73 would be nice. Stock manuals come with 3.07.
Thats right, I was forgetting they came with 3.07s in the 6cyl models.
 

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What what? Don't the manuals have different ratios that benefit from steeper gears, or is that just the 4cyl models?
What Im saying is for an auto, 4.10s are the ratio for 31s. Wouldn't it be the same, or even 4.56 for a manual? This thread makes my head spin lol.
The 4 and V6 models have 4.10s because of the need for higher rpms to take advantage of the torque curve of the engines.
The 4.0 has a lower torque curve, so came geared with 3.07 for the manual and 3.55 for the auto. The difference is due to the overdrive ratio of the transmissions. 14% for the manual and 25% for the auto. That gives about the same rpm at cruising speed. 3.55 to 4.10 is a difference of .55. 3.07 to 3.55 is a difference of .48. So the 3.55 is a good choice for the manual tranny and 31s. But 4.10 can be nice too
 

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Discussion Starter #43
What what? Don't the manuals have different ratios that benefit from steeper gears, or is that just the 4cyl models?
What Im saying is for an auto, 4.10s are the ratio for 31s. Wouldn't it be the same, or even 4.56 for a manual? This thread makes my head spin lol.
Trust me I'm spinning too but we're getting there trust me I might be all over but I'm pretty sure I'm getting it down what don't make since to you make since to me dont know how but it does. My mine is crazy like that for some reason its fun tho. Alot of what you have told me i.ve been needing to an wanting to know
 

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Discussion Starter #44
We've come a LONG way from replacing the entire power and drivetrains to what you said above^

As I read that, we are now full circle back to stock engine, trans, 31s, and very very mild wheeling with mainly daily driving. That kind of build needs a hell of a lot less work, time, budget, etc compared to a 1-ton swapped trail monster.

Sounds like you are looking at the following:
-rear lunchbox locker (Even only installing 1 traction aid vs both will be a huge addition to your jeep and will greatly affect drivability on and off road.)
-31" tires (meaning minimal lift and clearancing the fenders)
-minimal lift (3" or less), so you may or may not need an sye and new driveshaft, this will all be made clear if you read up on the budget mods thread I posted for you earlier.
-leave axles stock, no need to beef anything up or regear until you get larger tires or are seriously lacking power for some reason.
-winch, always a good idea, esp since you've made it clear you wheel alone and not in a group
-anything else is just gravy
THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!! WE HAVE HIT THIS SHIT OUT!!!!!!!!!!!! OF!!!!!!!!!!THE!!!!!!!!!!!PARK!!!!!!!!!! Still going with the chromly shafts
 

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Discussion Starter #45
An now i understand as you said"all jeeps come stock with 8.25 or dana 35 in rear" found a spec page. I was confused on that part an thought I needed a hold new one. Still might if i have the d35
 

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If you are going to run a 35" tire, then yes. We can give you a quick answer. Take a pic of your rear diff cover and post it.
 

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Discussion Starter #47 (Edited)
Ima have to send a pic some other time.I put it in the shop to do a compression test an rear main just the basics. IF you saw THE 4.5IN LIFT POST SCRUB IT ITS GONNA HAVE TO BE A 3IN. The suspension is shot a 3in is in my budget
 
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