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Will this Ultra Black RTV I used on the transfer case be okay on the transfer case?
Should I have used this gear oil formula gasket maker that I just found in my drawer?
 

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Just about any RTV is OK. As an example, Advance Adapters uses a light blue, somewhat clear RTV on its transfer cases
 

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it looks good while its spinning, no wobble.

Belt didnt squeak ever before.

This is the WJ 4.7, so its the automatic tensioner.

Well, i ordered a new belt anyway, so we'll see if that makes any difference.


Oh BTW new belt is all quiet no more squealy squeals
 

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What does a steering box sound like when it starts to go bad?

So I am having a unique sound becoming more and more prevalent when driving the yeti around. The sound only occurs when starting from a stop and only persists for a few seconds after going faster than 15-20 mph. It sounds like a rusty bicycle wheel, but is not dependant on rotor speeds. It reminds me of my rear axle shaft sound when the shitty bearing broke down and started to eat away at my axle shaft.

I've already checked the brake pads, and still plenty of meat on them.

It is a sound that originally I thought was the speedo in the instrument cluster. Mostly because I could hear it as if it were coming from the instrument cluster, but after having the windows down, it also appears to be coming from the front axle or general area upfront. It is very loud outside of the car as well. However, it appears that the sound could be travelling up the steering shafts to the wheel from the gearbox.

It started out sounding like the older speedo cable driven speedometers when the cable needed lubricating or replaced. That metal on metal squeal that isn't indicative of the rotor speeds at the wheel.

If I can get it on video I will share a link.

I know that when I rebuilt the front diff last year I put too much preload on the carrier bearings, but there isn't any issues with driving it.
 

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What would cause this on my battery terminal.
Been sitting for about a month with ground disconnected. Just opened the hood tonight and that’s what it looks like. Ewwww


Edit: it appears to aluminum sulfate.
It also is frozen pretty good to the terminal. I’ll have to find some baking soda tomorrow and try a baking soda / water mixture to neutralize it and try to break it free.
 

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That is sulfide salt. When your battery discharges, some fumes escape and are attracted to the positive terminal. There are some red and green felt donuts that go under the battery cable to eliminate that. Really cheap too
 

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That is sulfide salt. When your battery discharges, some fumes escape and are attracted to the positive terminal. There are some red and green felt donuts that go under the battery cable to eliminate that. Really cheap too
Is that what those do?
I knew they existed and were cheap, just never knew what they really were for, and when somebody gave us back a battery core with them on there I took them. And put them on my Jeep. LOL.

You have to look close.
 

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I've heard chassis grease on your terminals will neutralize sulfide salt and prevent the growth of corrosion. Is that correct?
 

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I’ve got a pair of those red and green terminal washers that I will put on, just didn’t yet. Good to know they will help prevent that kind of corrosion. I also did read that a little grease on the terminals will help.
All makes sense with the new Aluminum terminal clamps.
 

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Clean em with terminal cleaner, and then sprayem with Fluid Film. Keeps terminals clean and crust-free.
 

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So after a moderate hiatus, the axles work continues.

I have looked just about every reputable webpage for part numbers for the dust brake shields for the "front" D30 on a WJ Grand Cherokee (99-04).

I've been scouring the internet for a source to find them. All I can find are the rears.... are they the same as all other years?

Does ANYONE here have a parts number catalog for a WJ Grand?

I'd like to see if mopar parts online might have a pair.

The PnP JY has some but I thought I would spurge for new shiny ones. :thumbsup:
 

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I am als looking for some advice on how to plug up my abs controller and cap off the brake lines while I try to replace or change out the control board on my ABS unit.

I'd rather like to avoid bleeding the abs pump(six total fittings). I only want to pay to have that done once at the stealer ship later this spring.

I'm thinking vaccuum hose caps, and maybe some type of threaded bolt? (i'd like to avoid messing up any threads)
 

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Check with Summit Racing. They have self bleeding bleeders, or used to anyway. Another thing to do is before you install your new calipers, take them off, pump them up good, attach to your new set up then push the piston back with the bleeder pointed up. That should push all the air completely through the system and into the reservoir
 

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Havent had a stupid question in awhile but here's one: anybody see anything wrong with this picture? Hint, trackbar.

My question is: is that wrong or did RE change their kit?

This pic came from instagram where a fancy builder/dealer is selling this xj for a stupid amount of money.
 

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There is a lot going wrong there. That track bar frame mount looks like it held on with a 1/4" bolt.
 
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