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1991 Cherokee Laredo, 3.5" Rubicon Express lift, 31" BFG Mudders, Smittybuit F/R Bumpers...
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As part of a batch of upgrades I’m replacing the stock radio with a new JVC radio that also supports a backup camera. Today I removed the dash panel and pulled the old radio. I have adaptor wiring pig tail so I soldered up the new wiring harness to the adaptor harness to match up with the schematic labeled on the old stock radio (see attached image).

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When I plugged in the new radio it would not turn on. I did a bunch of double checking with my Fluke multimeter and everything looked good. I then pulled the new radio and tested the factory plug. Battery line was hot, ground was good, but when I switched on the ignition pin 5 didn’t go hot. Strange.

But, when I was wiring the adaptor harness to the radio harness I though it was strange that the red wire, which is usually switched ignition was shown wiring to a blue wire in the adaptor plug. Seems like it should have been red to red. But I wired as the schematic showed on the old stock radio, and it shows ACC/IGN on pin 5. After doing more checks I decided to test each pin on the factory plug and see what when hot when I turned the key to run on the ignition, and low and behold 5 pin did nothing, but 3 pin went hot! I don’t have a power antenna on the Larado so I figured the factory label was wrong and went back and soldered red lead to red lead, and everything now works fine…

With that baseline I have two questions.

1) Has anyone ever heard of a bad schematic sticker being on an old radio like this?

2) Does anyone know if a power antenna pin stays hot as long as the key is in ignition or accessory position.

I’m trying to figure out if I have a wiring harness issue with the number #5 pin, maybe a short or break somewhere, and I’m just tapping into a hot antenna pin (#3) and it’s working because that stays hot with the key in run or accessory position. If I have a short somewhere I need to find and fix it. On the other hand, as I don’t have a power antenna it’s hard to believe #3 pin would go hot…unless the schematic is wrong.
 

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The power ant is hot at all times. As soon as the ant retracts after the radio is switched off the motor stops.
My XJ has a power ant that is bad. The motor runs all the time unless I pull the fuse under the dash. I hear that you can modify a GM ant fairly easily.
 

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1991 Cherokee Laredo, 3.5" Rubicon Express lift, 31" BFG Mudders, Smittybuit F/R Bumpers...
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I assume you mean it's hot al the time the key is not in the off position? Or do you mean it's the same as BAT and is direct connected to the battery?
 

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Back when I had my 89 XJ (with a working electric antenna) if I turned off my ignition the antenna would retract ,then the motor would shut off when it's limit switch was met.
When I turned on the ignition the ant would extend as the radio was powered up.
Let me doublecheck this on my 90 XJ.
I just checked my Jeep in the driveway. With the ignition off when I put the fuse in the ant slot the motor ran.
When I turned the ignition on and then inserted the fuse the motor ran. I think it's hot until the limit sw is made in the antenna. Since my antenna is toast I leave the fuse out :)
 

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I don't know if this is any help because you probably already have the information, but just in case you don't, I found this:
1991-92 Jeep Cherokee Car Stereo Wire Colors and Locations

If I was doing a radio install, and the original radio's fused connection on the ignition/ACC side was less amperage than the new radio, I would consider not using the original radio's wiring circuit. I would seriously consider installing, a relay that switches the current directly from the battery to the radio using the ignition/ACC switching.

Of course, there would be an in-line fuse right at the battery. I would also fuse, wherever circuit I tap from the ignition/ACC hot, (+), switching that gets wired to the relay. I would use a low amp in-line fuse for that. It would be a 2 1/2 or 3 amp fuse at the most; so if for some reason there was a short, it would blow the lower amp in-line fuse instead of the main fuse supplied from the tapped ignition/ACC switch circuit.
 
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