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Totally baffled here fellas. The Jeep came to me in limp and had overheated. The check gauges light was on as was the check engine light. I realized the check gauges light was due to a faulty temp senor (the one for the gauge specifically). Replaced it. Pulled tons of codes. All over the place. o2 sensors, MAP, TPS, MAF, Cylinder 2 misfire.

The radiator leaked. I replaced it. It now sprays out the cap in short, high pressure bursts. Fun. I flushed the coolant and replaced the thermostat. I flushed the heater core. I replaced the hoses.

I then thought it was a bad injector becasue when I would pull the #1 injector, I noticed a difference. Same with all the others EXCEPT 2. I sent all the injectors out to be cleaned. Cleaned the rail.

Replaced - coil pack, plugs, MAF sensor, Checked for vaccum leaks, cleared all codes and even hard cleared the computer via the battery, but before I even start the car, just cycle the key CHECK ENGINE LIGHT. Even after the computer reset.

This all started with a rough idle. Holds at 1000 rpms, but the tail pipe is pounding like a 68 chevelle. Like a muscle car. Tonight, it sounded great, but then I took it out on the freeway and she went limp, I tried flooring it out of frustration, but it just cycled up and cut, Then the Check engine light started to flash indicating a misfire. Ususally if it's not the coil pack -which I HATE- or the injectors, then its an internal problem, i.e- head gasket or valves -right? I have compression in all 6 cylinders.

Please, someone help me. I am so frustrated I could cry, then screm, break something of value and then cry a bit more. :devil:
 

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Totally baffled here fellas. The Jeep came to me in limp and had overheated. The check gauges light was on as was the check engine light. I realized the check gauges light was due to a faulty temp senor (the one for the gauge specifically). Replaced it. Pulled tons of codes. All over the place. o2 sensors, MAP, TPS, MAF, Cylinder 2 misfire.

The radiator leaked. I replaced it. It now sprays out the cap in short, high pressure bursts. Fun. I flushed the coolant and replaced the thermostat. I flushed the heater core. I replaced the hoses.

I then thought it was a bad injector becasue when I would pull the #1 injector, I noticed a difference. Same with all the others EXCEPT 2. I sent all the injectors out to be cleaned. Cleaned the rail.

Replaced - coil pack, plugs, MAF sensor, Checked for vaccum leaks, cleared all codes and even hard cleared the computer via the battery, but before I even start the car, just cycle the key CHECK ENGINE LIGHT. Even after the computer reset.

This all started with a rough idle. Holds at 1000 rpms, but the tail pipe is pounding like a 68 chevelle. Like a muscle car. Tonight, it sounded great, but then I took it out on the freeway and she went limp, I tried flooring it out of frustration, but it just cycled up and cut, Then the Check engine light started to flash indicating a misfire. Ususally if it's not the coil pack -which I HATE- or the injectors, then its an internal problem, i.e- head gasket or valves -right? I have compression in all 6 cylinders.

Please, someone help me. I am so frustrated I could cry, then screm, break something of value and then cry a bit more. :devil:
blown head gasket. coolant is fouling the spark plug on number 2 creating a misfire.engine compression is being forced into the coolant system thru the bad headgasket thru a water jacket. almost bank on it
 

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im sorry man its no fun when your jeep gets silly. but its fixable.
my sugestion is to pull all the plugs and do a compression test on each cylinder.
maybe rent or buy a cooling system tester that checks for leaks by pumping air into the radiator with a pressure gauge attached. when i worked at a shop thats how they did it.you dont have to have steam or white smoke to have blown a headgasket. ive blown a few and never white smoke but i got what you described on my toyota.
a temp fix is K&W block seal it does really work.my yota whent 6 more months with it now i got the radiator deal too
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have the head gasket and I'm going to do it today. Thanks so much! I will let you know how I make out. I do have steam out the tailpipe and the radiator AND whitish blueish smoke. I did the compression test and had compression on all 6. However there is an oil leak. When I pull the gasket, will I "see" that it is blown? I've never seen one that is blown. Also, any advice for milling the head, or anything else that should be corrected/replaced while Im in there?

Thanks so much!!!!!:rock:
 

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Yep, 4 damn O2 sensors.... gotta love it!
4 of them?
and most people dont know o2 sensors get ruined by a blown headgasket:(
i dont usually se where the gasket whent bad either.comp test can be fine and it be bad cus coolant is holding the pressure in. i did a comp test one time and heard hissing out the radiator! lol
just get the head planed by a reputable machine shop
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Tons of coolant in the cylinders. Worked from 10am to midnight Philly time. What a mess. This time I DID see where it went bad. It was toasted. Anybody ever need to know how to do this, just email me and I'll walk you through it. My back hurts,:eek:
 

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I'm sure ya plan to magnaflux the head. I think the 00's had the bad head, i'll check on that for ya. If ya gotta get one make sure it's not the bad casting.

Where in Philly? I'm just outside NE.
 

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Tons of coolant in the cylinders. Worked from 10am to midnight Philly time. What a mess. This time I DID see where it went bad. It was toasted. Anybody ever need to know how to do this, just email me and I'll walk you through it. My back hurts,:eek:
im glad i was right, i would had hated for you to pull the head and do a new gasket and still have the same problem.so are you done or, just done pulling the head off?
 

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I'm sure ya plan to magnaflux the head. I think the 00's had the bad head, i'll check on that for ya. If ya gotta get one make sure it's not the bad casting.

Where in Philly? I'm just outside NE.
You're right, the 2000's did have the "bad heads", #0331 if I'm not mistaken.

To the OP, check the head itself also, as it could've cracked which led to the blown gasket, etc. I think it's typical to see a crack(s) between cylinder 3 and 4. Just don't want you to reassemble everything and continue to have the same issue due to a cracked head.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Got everything back together. I'm waiting because I'd like to install a new exhaust/intake manifold gasket. (neccesary?)

There was no crack. I looked over it pretty thoroughly and made sure there was no warping.

However, now I'm scared!! Im pulling the head back off and taking it to Mardinly Enterprises here in Broomall,PA to have it magnafluxed and re-surfaced just to make sure it's okay.
 

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Good idea.

Yes on the gasket, cheap insurance. TIP: when reassembling the intake/exhaust manifolds be certain that they are positioned correctly on the dowels periodically as you start the bolts/nuts. If it's not seated correctly it's easy to warp the header flange slightly.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Visually checked the head and re-installed everything. Same FUC*ING issue. This time though, it ran great for about 10 miles and then went totally haywire. The only thing I noticed was that the heater core was clogged (which I corrected) and when I shut her down tonight there was a lot of gurgling coming from the coolant resivoir. I'm afraid that I put the whole engine back together just to find that the head was cracked. Not to mention that the bolts that hold the manifolds on were designed originally by an ape. An ugly, stupid ape. They were a whore to re-install. What do I do here? Junkyard head. New engine? Burn it for the ins $? :agree:

I gues the head is smoked. Thats the only thing I can think. What a nightmare.
 

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Got everything back together. I'm waiting because I'd like to install a new exhaust/intake manifold gasket. (neccesary?)

There was no crack. I looked over it pretty thoroughly and made sure there was no warping.

However, now I'm scared!! Im pulling the head back off and taking it to Mardinly Enterprises here in Broomall,PA to have it magnafluxed and re-surfaced just to make sure it's okay.
Visually checked the head and re-installed everything. Same FUC*ING issue. This time though, it ran great for about 10 miles and then went totally haywire. The only thing I noticed was that the heater core was clogged (which I corrected) and when I shut her down tonight there was a lot of gurgling coming from the coolant resivoir. I'm afraid that I put the whole engine back together just to find that the head was cracked. Not to mention that the bolts that hold the manifolds on were designed originally by an ape. An ugly, stupid ape. They were a whore to re-install. What do I do here? Junkyard head. New engine? Burn it for the ins $? :agree:

I gues the head is smoked. Thats the only thing I can think. What a nightmare.

So I'm guessing you put it back on WITHOUT having the head checked?
 

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Just did some research for ya, your in deep. Do not buy another 0331 head... you'll be doing this job again. Basically you want an older head and an aftermarket header for a 00-01. You also need to check and see if you have the Federal emissions package or a Cali Emissions... Cali would have 4 O2 sensors.

Go read this.

0331 head change results - NAXJA Forums -::- North American XJ Association

If you need help sourcing a head let me know, plenty of yards near me and your not far.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Finished, fixed and running. I pulled the cylinder head again this morning and took it to the machine shop. I had them clean it and check it for cracks with the mag. The machinist knew the casting # on the head before I even told him what car it was from. Think he's seen it before? No crack in the head. However it was extremely warped. Instead of paying for the whole job, to re do it all, they had a fresh one on the shelf. $450. I bought it and installed it tonight and she runs like an absolute dream. Can't get the check engine light off STILL, but who cares. It runs really well.

The hardest part of the whole Job I think was getting the bolts that hold the intake manifold/exhaust manifold back on. They are totally blind. I used a paint pen to mark where the holes were on the new cylinder head so that I had a VAGUE idea of where the bolts were. Also wrapped the headers with "asbestos" while I was in there. Here is a shot of what I found when I opened her up and a shot of the new head. Thanks for all the help and support!!!:hi:
 

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I'm glad you got it back on and going. So it would have been more than $450 for them to mill the head? I think it was $200 when mine was done years ago.
 
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