Pretty much what I use. I have found the paste flux does make it flow better. But its a 1 time deal, seems like once the solder cools, you can't heat it enough to reflow it. I only use the pencil type when working on small (16-18 gauge) wire. I have a nice 100 watter for the 12-14 gauges.I ended up using the pencil style iron from wally world and rosin core solder. I find that the rosin flux **** doesn't work that we'll and got some flux meant for water pipes. That makes it flow really nice, it would probably help if I got a new iron too.
Yes!Ha, yea, that little iron doesn't like that 12 gauge wire very much, takes a few more seconds to get the wire hot enough. I need to get a larger iron.
And what kind of photos would you like to see, the beam pattern on a close wall? Perhaps the wire routing that I chose? And the setup in the jeep?
I used the bread trick on my buddy's cj5. Worked like a charm. And scored me some "I'm impressed". Points. Lol.Decided to get this project underway today, it went pretty smooth until I went to separate the trans from the block, forgot to remove one bolt from the dust shield at the bottom of the bell housing. Crazy how that one little guy can impede all progress. Didn't help that it was completely covered in oil.
To get the old pilot bearing out, I found the best way is to use bread, I tried grease, then bearing grease, and then said **** it. Bread is the last straw, otherwise I'm going to get a bearing puller.
I used a 2 jawed puller bolt to punch into the recess and pack the bread in there. Keep packing it in until you can't bottom the bolt out anymore, the pound away and it will literally force the pilot bearing out of the hole.
The old clutch plate compared to new. The scary thing is, this old unit is only supposed to be 6 years old!
Old pressure plate to new one below.
The difference is highly notable.
I won't have this project finished tonight since I ordered a new flywheel from napa, that'll be in tomorrow at 8 am. Better to be safe than sorry, especially seeing how worn this clutch is. That gives me time to swap all the parts from my SYE to the other t case now though.
Not sure on the rear hub lug spacing. I'll talk to the guys from the club and see what they say.That is some valuable input Gluck, it confirms what I've been thinking anyway. Though I'll probably keep the hub lockouts til they break, at which I'll convert it to the solid drive flange.
The only obstacle I'll have to overcome is converting the rear hub and rotor to 8x6.5 since it's 8x170. I think I'll line up rotor to rotor and drill those holes, the line up each rotor the their respective hub and drill those as well. Unless you think running adapters and high backspace wheels (like 6-7") wouldn't be a bad idea.