:thumbsup::thewave:
Project Apache
Finally decided to start a build thread, though its gona be slow one as my budget permits. I'm working with a '95 Cherokee 4.0L with the ax-15. I already got a few things done, though they're all cosmetic really, including a light bar, front bumper, etc. I do have parts on standby that will eventually go into this jeep.... as soon as I get them out of my old one: axles, the lift that's in the old one temporarily til I can afford something good. Once I do a lift, I have some 32's that I would love to put on my jeep.
My main goal atm is to fix any maintenance issues, right now I have a cracked manifold due to bad motor mounts. I already placed an order with iron man andy to get some bomb proof mounts. They actually should have shipped today. I'm going to pull the old manifold off the other jeep since its been welded and has held up for well over 10k since.
I have a second electric fan from the old jeep also that will also be used on the new. Its the older 6 blade style where as the one I have in my new jeep is the 10 blade. I will move the 10 blade over and hook it up to a hayden thermostatic controller, and in turn I will remove all the ac components and a few non necessary pulleys as well. This will help save on weight and rotational mass.
My main goal atm is to fix any maintenance issues, right now I have a cracked manifold due to bad motor mounts. I already placed an order with iron man andy to get some bomb proof mounts. They actually should have shipped today. I'm going to pull the old manifold off the other jeep since its been welded and has held up for well over 10k since.
I have a second electric fan from the old jeep also that will also be used on the new. Its the older 6 blade style where as the one I have in my new jeep is the 10 blade. I will move the 10 blade over and hook it up to a hayden thermostatic controller, and in turn I will remove all the ac components and a few non necessary pulleys as well. This will help save on weight and rotational mass.
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i see floor plans on craiglist around here (pittsburgh) for $69 a piece. Is that a good price?? Mine are gonna need changed eventually.
:thewave:
:thewave:
Remember the 8.25 has a larger axle tube. You will need new u bolts and the spring mounting plate.
I'm with Tim: Truck-Lite rubber grommet
These are primarily sold to Tractor trailer drivers, so if you have a local truck dealership, or truck part suppler, you may be surprised what you can find in there.
These are primarily sold to Tractor trailer drivers, so if you have a local truck dealership, or truck part suppler, you may be surprised what you can find in there.
Nice, See, I was gonna do that too. Do you think the Backup light wiring is safe and capable of handling the additional load??
All good builds start with a solid foundation. :thumbsup: NOw get us some closer pics!!!
Don't worry, I have worn out many grinding wheels.
No, No he does not!But does he have a buddy like you do
Are you putting tabs for clevis' on the front? MY JCR bumper had slots where the tabs fit through about 3/4 of the way and were welded on the inside and were inline with the frame brackets.
Looks good, I like the design. :thumbsup:
Looks good, I like the design. :thumbsup:
Looks really good! Nice job!!
Hi OH Silver!!!
Hi OH Silver!!!
Damn Androids!! :realmad: Looks good! Cough, jealous, cough.
Veddy veddy Nice!
What solder did you use and what size soldering iron?? Pics please!!
What solder did you use and what size soldering iron?? Pics please!!
Pretty much what I use. I have found the paste flux does make it flow better. But its a 1 time deal, seems like once the solder cools, you can't heat it enough to reflow it. I only use the pencil type when working on small (16-18 gauge) wire. I have a nice 100 watter for the 12-14 gauges.I ended up using the pencil style iron from wally world and rosin core solder. I find that the rosin flux **** doesn't work that we'll and got some flux meant for water pipes. That makes it flow really nice, it would probably help if I got a new iron too.
Yes!Ha, yea, that little iron doesn't like that 12 gauge wire very much, takes a few more seconds to get the wire hot enough. I need to get a larger iron.
And what kind of photos would you like to see, the beam pattern on a close wall? Perhaps the wire routing that I chose? And the setup in the jeep?
I used the bread trick on my buddy's cj5. Worked like a charm. And scored me some "I'm impressed". Points. Lol.Decided to get this project underway today, it went pretty smooth until I went to separate the trans from the block, forgot to remove one bolt from the dust shield at the bottom of the bell housing. Crazy how that one little guy can impede all progress. Didn't help that it was completely covered in oil.
To get the old pilot bearing out, I found the best way is to use bread, I tried grease, then bearing grease, and then said **** it. Bread is the last straw, otherwise I'm going to get a bearing puller.
I used a 2 jawed puller bolt to punch into the recess and pack the bread in there. Keep packing it in until you can't bottom the bolt out anymore, the pound away and it will literally force the pilot bearing out of the hole.
The old clutch plate compared to new. The scary thing is, this old unit is only supposed to be 6 years old!
Old pressure plate to new one below.
The difference is highly notable.
I won't have this project finished tonight since I ordered a new flywheel from napa, that'll be in tomorrow at 8 am. Better to be safe than sorry, especially seeing how worn this clutch is. That gives me time to swap all the parts from my SYE to the other t case now though.
I agree with the flywheel. Way to much work to not replace it. :thumbs up:
Woot Woot, Pawtee time!!
After having just spent the weekend in a solid built rock buggy on 1 ton axles (dana 60 front, shaved GM 14 bolt in the rear), I can offer what I learned. The rear was a spool with a selectable locker in the front. Nick, the owner and driver, on several occasions mentioned he wished he had put a selectable in the rear. He has a 2 speed t-case and the ability to select front and or rear drive. With the rear spool he has a hard time turning the front in tight spots. With a rear selectable off the front would pull to one side or the other without being pushed straight. If you are gonna build tons, I just figured front and rear selectables were the only option. The front axle has the lockout hubs eliminated.
Just my 2 cents.
Just my 2 cents.
Not sure on the rear hub lug spacing. I'll talk to the guys from the club and see what they say.That is some valuable input Gluck, it confirms what I've been thinking anyway. Though I'll probably keep the hub lockouts til they break, at which I'll convert it to the solid drive flange.
The only obstacle I'll have to overcome is converting the rear hub and rotor to 8x6.5 since it's 8x170. I think I'll line up rotor to rotor and drill those holes, the line up each rotor the their respective hub and drill those as well. Unless you think running adapters and high backspace wheels (like 6-7") wouldn't be a bad idea.
BTW. The front wheel bearings where loose on the Blue buggy and Nick had a scissor jack from a newer HD truck (JY score) which we were able to use to raise the 40" front wheels off the ground. He carries a hi-lift jack, but I was impressed with the scissor jack.
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